Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Rosewood surface
Have a 1980's scandanavian dining rosewood (Indian vs. brazilian?) that has three issues.
1. Has not been oiled in years resulting in some raised grain in the veneer table top. Oil to use? Suggestion?
2. Has a small 6" white (light) spot in surface from moisture or heat, not sure. Treatment suggestions?
3. Has been in an arrid (Arizona) climate for 12 years with smoker residents. Treatment suugestions for removing smoke smell and residual nicotine?
By the way, i previously owned this beatiful set and am hopeful that refinishing is only a second option.
Thank you in advance for your time amd consideration.
Hi Jerry, sorry for the delayed reply, I have just finished relocating over a 1,000 miles away. These pieces were usually finished with an oil finish, ( if it's Scandanavian it may be Teak, not Rosewood...), and the best thing to use , that is readily available, is probably the Watco Danish oil finish. This product can also be used to restore the finish. I like the Medium Brown Walnut, or Dark Walnut color on Teak/ Rosewood furniture, or if the reddish tone is desirable,a little Red Mahogany or Cherry can be intermixed, and it can be used to clean, and rejuvenate the finish.Please read and follow all the directions and precautions on the product, especially the spontaneous combustion warnings.The oil finish can be wet sanded into the surface to smooth, clean, and renew the look, using some 400-600 wet dry sand paper. I pour it into a resealable container, like a margarine tub, or Chinese food soup container, after thoroughly shaking it , and dip the sandpaper right into it, perhaps even spilling it onto the surface you're working on, and sand in long strokes with the grain. Work in a manageable area at a time, and after sanding smooth, leave the surface wet for 10-15 minutes and wipe the excess finish off with the grain. On areas that are smooth to the touch and have no other damage, you can apply with some 0000, 000 or 00 steel wool,(some experimentation will be necessary), scrubbing the surface clean in long strokes with the grain,and finish with a clean rag. The solvent in the oil finish will dissolve tobacco resin, dirt, and grime, old wax, etc...and leave the surface smooth and rejuvenated. Once you have covered the whole surface with these techniques, you can re-apply the Watco to the whole surface and evenly wipe it down again right away. If you find it getting sticky on you, simply apply more over the whole surface,and wipe right away. The key is to leave behind a VERY thin, even coat, after letting the oil penetrate, and then leave it to dry for at least 24 hours before applying another wet coat. The temptation is too leave a wet coat on the surface because it looks so good, but resist that, and wipe it off well. Successive coats will bring you to that end, without stickiness and drying issues. After thorough drying (at least 24hrs.),again flood the surface completely with a brush, paint pad, or similar, let sit for a few minutes and wipe off almost completely, leaving a very thin wet film.1-4 coats may be desired depending on what you experience as you go, and the level of color and protection desired. These finishes penetrate into the wood, and harden from within, so it's important not to over apply at each coat. A fan can be used on the piece after application to hasten the drying overnight...and you want to make sure that when you run your hand over it after drying, it feels dry...not tacky, sticky, etc. before you apply another coat. A little longer between coats can only help to not dissolve the previous application. And remember, while dry to the touch, these finishes continue curing for several weeks to become hard and durable. You'll have to evaluate after the first operation to see what has become of the defects in the finish...they might disappear...they might not. If they are made worse, or are not acceptable, then you'll have to think about chemically stripping the piece down to bare wood and start fresh, but I would not suggest this for a novice finisher. Most of these are veneered in any large panel areas, and extreme care must be taken when refinishing these surface. If it's Teak, they were masters of veneering, and you may not think that they are veneered, but 9.75 times out of 10 they are. This type of work shouldn't be undertaken if you are unfamiliar with the processes and techniques of working with finishes, it's typically not a job for the novice...but it is not "rocket surgery" and can be accomplished with the right guidance and understanding...hope that helps a little...please feel free to post back.