Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Cabinet top

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Question
I bought a "Made In China" island for my kitchen. The top is 3/4" butcher type block. The factory finish is starting to come off in places that have been subjected to abrasion and cleaning. Do you recommend a food safe type finish that I can apply after giving it a fine sanding?

Answer
Hi Brian,

The "Bible" on wood finishes is written by Bob Flexner- it's entitled "Understanding Wood Finishing" and is readily available. I consult it for questions like this, since I primarily use oil finishes and don't want to answer incorrectly about a different finish.

In his book, Bob definitively states that all wood finishes are safe after they've cured. The rule of thumb is to allow 30 days. Do I wait that long? No, but I'm not eating a sandwich right off the top of this wooden surface, either. It's a rule of thumb- you wouldn't want to serve a block of cheese right on top of this. It's a common sense thing.

That said, some wood finishes are more appropriate for food surfaces than others. Your question completely addresses this- through abrasion and cleaning, the finish is worn. You certainly wouldn't want a surface finish (i.e.... one that sits on the surface, rather than penetrating deeply) to chip off and contaminate your food. So a penetrating finish is what you would want to use in this situation.

The key to penetrating finishes in applications like this is to allow them to deeply soak into the wood, thus sealing off the pores from bacteria and contamination. I recommend a good Danish Oil, like ones made by Watco or Minwax. Sand your wooden top clean, wipe the dust off, and then apply the oil. The first coat will soak in deeply, you can actually wet sand the oil into the wood, which gives you an ultra soft feel. I use 400 grit wet or dry paper for this. Wipe COMPLETELY off.

I recommend 3 coats. The first will completely soak in, the next two coats, not so much. Be careful with your rags, they can spontaneously combust. When you're done with them, lay them out flat and allow to dry, preferably on a concrete floor.

Oil finishes- especially ones that will be wiped clean often, will show wear quicker than say- your dining room table. So you'll want to do some periodic re-oiling of your top. I keep a very small jar of Danish Oil under my kitchen sink, and when my wooden surfaces start to look dry, I give them a light coat of oil after doing my dinner dishes. This light coat will be dry by morning, and unless you're eating right off the countertop, you can use it the following day.

OK, good luck, I hope this helps.

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com

Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks

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Jamie Yocono

Expertise

Woodworker, Furniture designer/builder, industrial arts educator. Bachelor degree in Furniture Design, and journeyman carpenter, with a 4 year apprenticeship. Currently owner of custom furniture/cabinet shop in Las Vegas, NV. Can answer most woodworking questions EXCEPT those regarding repairs, refinishing, and antiques.

Experience

Bachelor in Furniture Design - Ohio University (1980) Journeyman Carpenter, Local 639 Adult educator - Developed adult education woodworking program for the University of Akron, and taught classes there for 9 years. Opened a private woodworking school in Las Vegas, NV and teach private and semi-private lessons. In 2011, I will begin teaching UNLV woodworking classes at my school. Sweet!

Organizations
Furniture Society

Publications
Tile Design and Installation Magazine (Article on inlaying tile into wood)

Education/Credentials
Journeyman Union Carpenter Bachelors degree in Furniture Design (Ohio University) College of Hard Knocks!

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