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Question
Hello again Eileen,

Thank you for your prompt and helpful response!

I'll use point form so as not to turn this into a novel (I also wasn't quite sure how to post a followup, hopefully this format will do):

1) When using the steal wool and TSP should I scrub to the point that the wool is almost acting as a sander?  And relatedly should any sanding (with sandpaper) occur in this process?  The owner is insisting this is the case, but I am unsure.

2) Will the TSP bring up any of the old stain or potentially create splotches?  Am I attempting to bring up any of the old stain?

3) The ability to reapply the tung oil is appealing to me, but I'm not sure the owners would actually do so...is this reapplication necessary?  I will be removing the cupboard doors and drawers, and therefore they won't necessarily be vertical during application (only the cupboard skeleton will then be), so does this change your verdict of using the oil over poly?

4) The owner is worried that another coat of stain (even thought it will be the same finish) will make the cabinets too dark.  How much darkening do you think will occur?

5) As for the cracks and broken drawer, the owners have agreed to ignore them.  And yes, the cracks have indeed occurred over the sink and stove.  Will the tung oil create any sort of seal to prevent further cracking?

6) And, what I believe to be the final issue, I noticed today that the cabinets have a finish (I'm not sure of the correct term for it) where black paint has been dotted/splattered lightly over or under (I'm not sure which) the stain.  What issues might this create?  Is it possible it will streak or stain the wood during the cleaning process or the staining?  If this is the case should I be working to remove these during the cleaning?

Apologies for the length and thank you again for all of your help!

---------------------------

Original Question and Answer:

Expert: Eileen Cronk
Date: 9/3/2006
Subject: Dull and Cracked Cabinets

Question
I have seen and read similar questions/posts here, but none which seem to completely answer my question.  However, accept my apologies if this has been asked before (and for the length):

A friend has asked me about repairing several problems in their kitchen cabinetry.   They have white oak cabinets (frame and panel) and drawers which are about 50 years old and were last refinished (stripped and stained) about 8 years ago (not by me) in a golden oak stain.  Now the cabinets have begun to wear in the "traffic" areas (bottoms and handles) becoming dull looking in those areas, although it is only noticeable in certain lights.  I am of the mind that a complete stripping is not necessary, but am not sure what to do in lieu.  I was told by a hobbyist that washing them with a moderately diluted cleaner (ie Mr Clean) to clear them of the years of grim from kitchen existence, and then a coat of satin varnish would bring out the color again in the dull areas.  Is there truth to this or do can you suggest similar methods?

HOWEVER, the next issue is that the there are 4-5 noticeable cracks in the wood, which I'm not sure could be repaired without stripping the wood and restaining it (as I wouldn't know how to make the "filled" areas match everything else.).  

Finally, and similarly, a corner has broken off of one of the drawers.   One, how might you recommend repairing this, and two, how might the repair job be made to match the finish without completely refinishing the whole set.

We are hesitating on a complete and total refinishing as there are approximately 30 cabinets, and 40 drawer fronts (more work than any of us wish to do).  All input and suggestions are appreciated.  

Thanks.

Answer
Hi Ryan
Nice to hear from you.
I'm with you on not stripping these 30 cabinets..my gosh what a job.
And I certainly will answer this question especially for you even though it has been addressed before.
Ryan your friend was right about how to refresh the cupboards..to a point, but I would use a TSP solution and a steel wool pad dipped in as a scrubber.
TSP is available at all hardware stores in powder form. Mix according to directions.
Next I would apply a coat of Minwax golden oak stain over the entire cupboards. Apply the stain with a rag and wipe back excess.
This could take as long as 48 hours to dry so do not panic.
Next is the final finish.
Here it depends on how much work you want to do.
Personally my first choice would be a couple of coats of low lustre tung oil applied with a rag.(high gloss tung oil or any high gloss product on kitchen cabinets would show finger marks badly)
Second choice would be Minwax fast drying oil based poly.
I would never use varnish...miserable stuff to apply LOL.
And really the poly will be time consuming to apply to a vertical surface because great care will have to be taken to avoid runs...pretty hard to do.
As I said tung oil is my first choice.
Another plus for tung oil is that you can refresh the finish every year or twice a year if you choose simply by cleaning the surface and wiping on a coat with a rag.
Ryan the cracks and broken drawer are the problems.
In a perfect world the drawer should be replaced.
Then stained and finished as above.
Wood filler will just not cut it here.
The cracks I would simply ignore. I see no solution short of seperating the frame from the panel and gluing and clamping the cracks back together.(not easy if they have been cracked a long time.
I am puzzled why these cracks should happen. Are the doors completely sealed back front and all sides? This is a moisture problem. Are the doors close to a steamy area or the stove?
So lots to think about and a few questions back to you LOL.
Kindest Regards
Eileen  

Answer
Hi Again Ryan
Point form back to you.
1) When using the steal wool and TSP should I scrub to the point that the wool is almost acting as a sander?  And relatedly should any sanding (with sandpaper) occur in this process?  The owner is insisting this is the case, but I am unsure.
ANSWER..use no follow up sandpaper and the steel wool will not scratch the wood in any way. Use medium grade.
Just a good scrubbing with the TSP and steel wool.
Possibly the owner does not realise that TSP will deglaze the wood in preperation for the stain and oil.
Certainly he is correct that sanding should take place if he does not know that TSP and steel wool does this.

2) Will the TSP bring up any of the old stain or potentially create splotches?  Am I attempting to bring up any of the old stain?
ANSWER...Not sure what you mean Ryan, but I have never had splotches using this method. But in all cases, always do a test door first as there are a lot of variables in finishes.

3) The ability to reapply the tung oil is appealing to me, but I'm not sure the owners would actually do so...is this reapplication necessary?  I will be removing the cupboard doors and drawers, and therefore they won't necessarily be vertical during application (only the cupboard skeleton will then be), so does this change your verdict of using the oil over poly?
ANSWER..It will not be necessary for the owners to reapply the oil, but it certainly keeps the cupboards looking great.
And if you are removing all doors (which is absolutely unessary with my procedure), then I would use the poly for more lasting durability and the fact the owners will not apply more oil.

4) The owner is worried that another coat of stain (even thought it will be the same finish) will make the cabinets too dark.  How much darkening do you think will occur?
ANSWER...Don't agree with that Ryan, but once again, do a test.A door back perhaps.

5) As for the cracks and broken drawer, the owners have agreed to ignore them.  And yes, the cracks have indeed occurred over the sink and stove.  Will the tung oil create any sort of seal to prevent further cracking?
ANSWER..Yes the oil will and of course poly will too.
The trick here is to apply the same amount of coats to the backs, tops, bottoms sides and fronts of all doors.
This stops uneven moisture penetration in its tracks.

6) And, what I believe to be the final issue, I noticed today that the cabinets have a finish (I'm not sure of the correct term for it) where black paint has been dotted/splattered lightly over or under (I'm not sure which) the stain.  What issues might this create?  Is it possible it will streak or stain the wood during the cleaning process or the staining?  If this is the case should I be working to remove these during the cleaning?
ANSWER..This is the cabinet makers attempt at adding worm holes. No problem just carry on. I have never seen these speck come off during my procedure.
Once again Do the test door, show the customer and then decide.
I realise this is totally different than doing this for yourself and you are correct to ask as much as you can before starting.
Good Luck
Kindest Regards
Eileen  

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Eileen Cronk

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Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

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I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

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