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Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Finishing Maple Kitchen Cabinets

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Hi Eileen;

My questions sort of fall between two experts so I have asked you both (also asked Jamie).  My husband has built an entire kitchen worth of cabinets out of 3/4" maple plywood and 3/4" solid maple face frames.  We plan are having the doors and drawer fronts made for us out of solid maple.  We have done the final sanding on all the cabinet carcasses and frames and we are now ready to stain and finish them.  Here is where my questions begin:
1. Should we stain all of the carcass panels inside and out or just the viewable (when assembled) panels?
2. Should we assemble the carcasses and attach the face frames before staining or after staining but before lacquering or after both?
3. Do you have any tips on how to apply the stain (we chose a waterbased stain)to maintain consistency, ie. stain one side and let it dry, then stain the other side, etc.?
4. Here is our biggest problem: we would like to use Deft Lacquer (or equiv) for the final finish but we only have our basement (we live in Michigan) to do them in and the smell/fumes are overwhelming.  Is there a less toxic/smelly alternative that offers the fast dry time and ease of use?
5. We plan of brushing on the lacquer due to containment limitations of spraying, do you have any tips on how to apply to a two sided piece to avoid drips and blobs on the opposite side?

I am sorry for all the questions, but I've been without a kitchen for 1-1/2 years and I just want to get this job done.  I appreciate any help that you can give.

Thanks,
Ruth

Answer
Hi Ruth
Nice to hear from you.
I am so happy for you getting a new kitchen and I appreciate the fact that you want this job done right.
I will try my best to answer your questions one at a time..........

1. Should we stain all of the carcass panels inside and out or just the viewable (when assembled) panels?

ANSWER Always seal all wood surfaces on kitchen cabinets.
If you don't do it now you will have to down the road and by then the bare wood will be dirty.

2. Should we assemble the carcasses and attach the face frames before staining or after staining but before lacquering or after both?

ANSWER.Assemble before staining
3. Do you have any tips on how to apply the stain (we chose a waterbased stain)to maintain consistency, ie. stain one side and let it dry, then stain the other side, etc.?

ANSWER..Not sure if you mean the doors here??, but I would Apply your stain with clean rags and stain one side and then the other when that dries.
4. Here is our biggest problem: we would like to use Deft Lacquer (or equiv) for the final finish but we only have our basement (we live in Michigan) to do them in and the smell/fumes are overwhelming.  Is there a less toxic/smelly alternative that offers the fast dry time and ease of use?

ANSWER..stay away from doing lacquer yourself. You could have the doors sent out to be sprayed and use a poly product on the carcass or there are several good fast drying polly products on the market. I also use a wipe on poly on occasion too. Its a very nice product to apply and you avoid drips.
5. We plan of brushing on the lacquer due to containment limitations of spraying, do you have any tips on how to apply to a two sided piece to avoid drips and blobs on the opposite side?

ANSWER. I will not give tips on lacquer as I do not feel it should be used in the home. Just a bad experience I had a long time ago LOL.
I hope this will help with your decision making Ruth and my best wishes on a successful job.
Regards
Eileen  

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Eileen Cronk

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Hi..I can answer most questions about the repairing,stripping and refinishing of all your old furniture and wood items(the things we call antiques)I can give advice about what to buy/avoid at auctions/flea markets. I do not give appraisals on antiques.

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I have been refinishing antiques for the past 30yrs. While I have taken several courses over the years,I have found that "hands on" learning is the best teacher. Perhaps I can help you avoid some of the mistakes I made while learning.

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