Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Finishing mahogany

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Question
Hi there
I have just bought an awesome 7' country style mahogany table and have striped the top down (not a great fan of an entirely 'espresso' table). I now want to put a finish on the top that meets the following criteria:
1. Durable and stain resistant (have a 3 yr old + friends)
2. natural finish (i.e. not colored)
3. Does not look like plastic (hand rubbed look maybe?) I like smooth but not shiny. Any shine should be from the wood itself.  

Any suggestions? My usual favorite in Watco Danish Oil but according to some web sites it is not good on open grained wood like Mahogany. If you want pictures let me know.
Thanks for taking the time to look at this.
Yours
Mike
Victoria BC

Answer
Hi Mike,

I totally disagree with whoever says Watco isn't good on open grained wood. Perhaps they don't know the best way to apply it.

I've been using Watco since I was in college... let's just say it's a long time! Over the years, the Watco formula has been bought and sold to various companies, and they've tweaked the ingredients somewhat. But from what I can tell, the Watco being manufactured today is really similar to what I used in the late 1970s.

That said- Watco will do almost all of the things you said you wanted- like being durable and stain resistant, giving you a natural finish, and it will not look like plastic. Mike, it's not a PERFECT finish, but let me say this... I've built nearly every piece of furniture in my home, and they all have Watco as a finish. You DO have to take some normal precautions, like using coasters on your coffee table, or perhaps using placemats on a dining table. But the Watco finish is gorgeous and it wears beautifully.

Here's a tip when applying it to an open grained wood. Saturate the raw wood with Watco for a good 15 minutes, reapplying it wherever it soaks in. Get a piece of fine sandpaper, like 400 grit wet or dry paper, and sand the oil right into the wood. Sand with the grain, and soon, you'll produce a slurry of fine sawdust and the Watco. This slurry will fill some of the grain pores. It's better than wood filler, as it's the same wood, so it matches perfectly. Keep wetting the wood until the whole top is sanded. Then - apply a little more oil and wipe the table top completely clean. Wipe it well, getting off every bit of oil. If you miss a spot, it will dry sticky and rough.

I always apply 3 coats... the first one is both the easiest and the hardest- for you have to do all that sanding. But it's easy because the wood keeps soaking it up like a sponge. The next two coats are basically just wiped on and wiped off. I don't let them sit too long, as they'll get sticky very fast. So wipe them on, and wipe them off.

Then- here's my secret weapon. I use Johnson's Paste Wax as a final coat of protection. Rub it on, let it sit for a short while, and then wipe it off WITH THE GRAIN. For some reason, this final paste wax application can leave marks on the wood if you don't wipe it off with the grain. Anyway- this wax does two things- give you a little sheen (the wood will almost glow) and it makes the surface even more water repellent. It really makes a difference. I generally only wax the top of a table, not the base. But you can if you want to.

For regular maintenance, I use that spray stuff called Orange Glo. When we use the table, I wipe it clean with a warm, damp cloth, and then spray the Orange Glo on it, wiping it clean again. The table we have is about 2 years old and it's developed the most lovely colors from using this product. I'm not sure why, but it really makes the wood look great. Must have some oil/conditioners in it.

That's it Mike- you CAN achieve a protective finish with Watco, you just have to be a little careful when the kids are around. But- the good news is- if the kids screw something up, it's easy repaired. You can't easily repair a varnished table, so I think Danish Oil is the way to go.

OK, good luck, I hope this helps. Please feel free to write back if you have any further questions after reading this. And if this answer was helpful... please take a minute and rate my service. Thanks!

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com

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Jamie Yocono

Expertise

Woodworker, Furniture designer/builder, industrial arts educator. Bachelor degree in Furniture Design, and journeyman carpenter, with a 4 year apprenticeship. Currently owner of custom furniture/cabinet shop in Las Vegas, NV. Can answer most woodworking questions EXCEPT those regarding repairs, refinishing, and antiques.

Experience

Bachelor in Furniture Design - Ohio University (1980) Journeyman Carpenter, Local 639 Adult educator - Developed adult education woodworking program for the University of Akron, and taught classes there for 9 years. Opened a private woodworking school in Las Vegas, NV and teach private and semi-private lessons. In 2011, I will begin teaching UNLV woodworking classes at my school. Sweet!

Organizations
Furniture Society

Publications
Tile Design and Installation Magazine (Article on inlaying tile into wood)

Education/Credentials
Journeyman Union Carpenter Bachelors degree in Furniture Design (Ohio University) College of Hard Knocks!

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