Expert: Jamie Yocono - 1/13/2007

Question
I've seen the formica wrapped around the front of countertops, how do you bend the formica?
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The text above is a follow-up to ...

-----Question-----
Hi Jamie, what's the best way to cut formica?  I'm installing formica on the top of the bar and I will need some of the excess to finish the front and back edges.  Should I just cut it (trim it) with the router?

Thanx

Doug
-----Answer-----
Hi Doug,

There are a few ways you can cut plastic laminate.

Yes, you can use a router to trim off the excess. But if you do, you might want another set of hands to support the piece that you cut off. If not, when you get to the end of the cut, it might snap off and break where you don't want it to break. Also, this gets a little messy, as usually the laminate "sawdust" you make from the router will stick to the back, where you've applied excess glue. So sometimes this renders the scrap pieces useless. So be careful with your adhesive application.

They make hand held "scissors" that cut laminate very nicely. The good thing about these are that you can cut curves or 90 degree angles, so if you have a tricky layout on your sheet, you can negotiate it with these shears. I bought a pair of these years ago, I don't remember what they cost, but it was probably similar to the cost of a pair of tin snips. Worth every penny!

If I have a long rip to make, say an 8' or 10' cut, I use the tablesaw. Since the laminate can slip under my fence, I usually do one of two things- either lower my fence so it sits on the table, with no gap whatsoever. Or if you can't do that, you can clamp a board to your tablesaw fence, so that there is no gap.

I've even seen people use some sort of linoleum knife (or utility knife) that scores the plastic laminate, similar to the way you'd cut a piece of glass... score it and snap it apart. I've tried this method and have had bad luck with it, so I don't recommend it.

I'd say in terms of safety and doing an accurate cut, I'd say my first choice are the hand held shears, the next is the tablesaw, and last is with the router like you mentioned.  It will work, but it's not the best way.

OK, good luck, I hope this helps. Please feel free to write back if you have any further questions after reading this. And if this answer was helpful... please take a minute and rate my service. Thanks!

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com


Answer
Hi,

Formica makes many grades of plastic laminates. Depending on what you where you want the laminate to go, as in a horizontal or vertical application, that is how you choose the grade for your project.  For most applications requiring bending, you need to use Grade 20.

The following information should help you regarding the common grades available:

GRADE DEFINITIONS

  •   Grade 10 General Purpose Grade (HGS, Nominal Thickness .048"(1.2mm))
The most widely specified grade; recommended for horizontal and vertical interior applications.

  •   Grade 12 Horizontal Postforming Grade (HGP, Nominal Thickness .039"(1.0mm))
Postformable to permit bending on suitable commercial postforming equipment. Use whenever forming is desired for decorative or functional purposes in interior applications. Optimum postforming temperature is 325°F (163°C). Note: When used with a polished finish, Grade 12 is recommended only for light duty horizontal surfaces.

  •   Grade 20 Vertical Postforming Grade (VGP, Nominal Thickness .028" (0.7mm))
Outside and inside radii to 3/8" (9.5mm). A forming grade designed for vertical or light duty horizontal interior applications requiring radiused edges. Thinner than Grade 12; excellent for postformed radii. Installed panel width not to exceed 24" (609.6mm) maximum.

  •   Grade 25 Postforming Grade (Nominal Thickness 0.038" (1.0mm))

Intended for application to interior horizontal and vertical surfaces where design, appearance, quality, durability and resistance to relatively harsh acids, alkalis, corrosive salts and other destructive or staining substances are required. Available only for Formica Chemtop chemical resistant laminate items.

To see all of the various grades, go to this page:
http://www.formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/grades_and_finishes.

That's not to say you can't bend Grade 10, which is probably the most common grade that you'll see in most home improvement centers. I recently made a small bathroom countertop, and on one end, wanted to make a large curve, so that it would be more friendly when bumped in the middle of the night. I used a grade 10 for the top and all the edging, as well as the back splash. So even though it's not made specifically for bending, it certainly worked. As long as your radius isn't too tight, you can usually bend this OK.

As far as bending it- you do that the same way you apply it as if it were flat. It's pretty flexible, but I always lay some sticks (or kraft paper) down as protection, for I don't want it to get stuck (prematurely) in the wrong position. When you have it positioned correctly, pull out some of the sticks and press the laminate into place. Do that a few times, pulling out the sticks and pressing the laminate into place until it's all down. For curves, you need to be careful. Some people start by laying down the center of the bend first, and then work outward. Others start at one end, attaching the laminate and working their way into the curve. That works too. But don't start on both ends, working toward the middle (curve) or you might find that you allowed too much material and have a bubble on the curve.

There really isn't that much difference between laminating a flat area versus a curved area. It's not difficult at all, but once again, an extra set of hands really helps.  Good luck, write back if you need more info.

Jamie Yocono
www.wooditis.com