Expert: Jamie Yocono - 5/11/2007

Question
We want to do away with our nightstands and create a "box" behind our bed, to rest drinks on, maybe put a plant, etc.  We are also creating a platform for the bed over some drawers (former store displays).  The new bed should hit apx: 26" high. At the back of the bed, we use Euro Square pillows (about 18" high), which would rest at the back of the bed, lending to a total height of 42" from the floor.

The questions:

How high should the box be?  Hubby said about 5 ft from floor.

We are planning to make the box 12" deep.  Do you foresee a need to make it deeper?

We are planning on using 3/4 round around the perimeter of the top of the box, in case spills occur.  Any ideas on improving this idea?

We are planning on creating a three-sided box with a top (for the fourth "side".  If we do this, do you foresee stability issues?

Should we plan to attach it to the wall, or just ensure that the bed is butted sufficiently.  I was thinking we could use two 1x4 boards, cut to length, attached to the studs to act as a "lip" to screw down the top of the box to.  Not sure this is what we should do.

Please advise and feel free with any answers to questions I didn't ask! ;)

Lisa


Answer
Lisa,

I cut and pasted your questions so I wouldn't forget to answer anything. This sounds like a nice project, I love this design.

How high should the box be?  Hubby said about 5 ft from floor.
  This seems a little high to me, but I think this is a personal preference. One thing's for sure, you generally want to work in 6" increments, so it could be 36" or 42" or 48" or 54" or 60".  Just an industry standard to stick to common measurements.

We are planning to make the box 12" deep.  Do you foresee a need to make it deeper?    Not really any deeper, but possibly a little less deep. If you were planning on using 1 x 12" lumber, it only measures 11 1/2" wide. So be flexible with your dimensions. No sense in having to buy 1 x 14" (I'm not sure they even make that!) in order to get a full 12" depth. Instead, adapt the design to fit the lumber you can buy economically.

We are planning on using 3/4 round around the perimeter of the top of the box, in case spills occur.  Any ideas on improving this idea?
  No, this doesn't seem like it's necessary. I use a lot of tile in my furniture, what about putting some tile on the top so it can accommodate coffee cups, water glasses, or even a vase full of flowers? Just a thought.  If you think about it, however, you really don't need the additional trim around the top. I mean, plenty of spills happen on dining tables, but you don't see trim around those. It may be overkill.

We are planning on creating a three-sided box with a top (for the fourth "side".  If we do this, do you foresee stability issues?
  I would use some sort of interior brace to keep the box square. I like to use 1 x 3 or 1 x 4, both right under the top, and right above the bottom. That way, you can screw right through it to attach this to the wall. Make sure you attach the brace a few ways- screwing down through the top, and then though the sides, as well. I'm not sure what sort of fasteners you're using, but if you have a nail gun that shoots 18 gauge brads, this would be a good way to put it all together.

Should we plan to attach it to the wall, or just ensure that the bed is butted sufficiently.  I was thinking we could use two 1x4 boards, cut to length, attached to the studs to act as a "lip" to screw down the top of the box to.  Not sure this is what we should do.
  This is sort of what I was discussing in the above question. Only- instead of attaching the 1 x 4 to the wall, make it a component of the box. Then use it for your mounting strip. You say to-MAY-to, I say to-MAH-to. It's all the same.

Please advise and feel free with any answers to questions I didn't ask! ;)

If you're using the "box" as a bookshelf, I would measure some hardback books to find a better depth. Most hardcovers are like 7 x 10" or something similar. I make most of my bookcases only about 10" deep. Paperbacks only require (roughly) a 4" depth. So you might not have to make the box that deep.

I hope you have access to some basic tools, both hand tools and power tools. You're going to need something for accurate crosscutting of all those pieces. And while most professional furniture makers don't like to use metal fasteners such as nails, I think in this instance, you would be fine shooting brads to keep this all together.

OK, good luck, I hope this helps. Please feel free to write back if you have any further questions after reading this. And if this answer was helpful... please take a minute and rate my service. Thanks!

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com