Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/L-shaped balustrade questions
Expert: Joseph G. Swallow - 10/20/2006
QuestionI have been asked to finish an L-shaped interior staircase with some landing problems. The newels are 3 1/2 inch square and the balusters are 1 1/4 inch square and this is to be a post-to-post system. My first problem is that the landing extends 3 inches past the upper carriage frame. My second problem is the setback between the upper and lower carriages is 2 7/8 inches (I'm not sure which it was supposed to be either because of the use of the big newels with the small balusters-1 /1/8 or 1/ 3/8?). I am left with two options as I see it and was hoping you might be able to help. First, I could place the newel posts on the lower run out of traditional centerline and use two extra balusters at the landing; and then run the rest of the balusters on traditional centerline. This would leave me with a half inch gap between the intermediate newel and the first and last balusters near the landing but I'm not sure how it would look with the rest of the balustrade being 5 inches on center spacing. My second idea was to use a 7055 two-rise right hand gooseneck and go with no newel on landing at all. I like this because I can place the extra balusters and the spacing would be the same except for where it turns the corner. I only wonder if it is possible to maintain a consistent balustrade height when I turn the corner because of the landing issues. I think I can because I can cut the gooseneck vertically to fit my needs but am unsure again because of the non-standard framing.
Sorry for the length and complexity of these questions and thank you in advance to anyone who can offer any ideas and/or answers.
Doug Mills
Mills Brothers Construction Services
AnswerDoug,
Usually the newel post is installed center-to-center with the ascending first rake/run and the 90-degree second rake run (perfect corner). Sometimes the carpenter will sawzall any framing over hanging the landing. At times they would use a 7099 gooseneck to capture the ascending rake with rail maitre directly into the newel post from the 2nd rake. Many times the framer will extend or set back the landing several inches past the first stringer run to create a "flat spot" to insall the newel post. With a 3-1/2" newel you'd probably want the 3-1/2" to 4", or room to set the newel flat. 2-7/8" doesn't sound like enough room.
I think if you go with the first option, setting the newel at the lower run, might look awkward on several counts, both in the handrail flow and the baluster layout.
The idea of a 7055 (Coffman gooeneck) or using the component breakdown (two 7012's and one 7011) to make the transition which you can join and control more of the flow, is a good idea. I would make sure the balusters surrounding the gooseneck area are screwed to the floor (dowel screws work best if your balusters are pin top), and small broad nail sized screws for the balusters to the handrail. This will help with the strength. Also, the fact that you are making a 90-degree transitions enforces the strength of the corner. You could also try and find a smaller newel post for the transition and use a capped fitting. Many styles are available in both a 3-1/2" and 3". Even in a post-to-post system, if you can get a 3" version of the style installing, it would "squeak" by with the 2-7/8" flat area.
If you want, e-mail me a picture to joseph@westfiremfg.com and I can tell you exactly how I would install this if I were the carpenter.
Hope this helps.
Thank you!