Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/Veneer repair
Expert: Eileen Cronk - 10/11/2007
QuestionQUESTION: Greetings: I acquired a nice antique dresser. The wood is very dark. There are two doors that swing open in the upper section. One of these doors and the very top of the dresser have peeling veneer. What is the best way to repair this type of situation? Thanks.
Larry
ANSWER: Hi Larry
Nice to hear from you.
First thing to do is apply some gentle pressure on the veneer (before gluing) to make sure the veneer will go back into proper place. Unfortunately this is not always the case as the lifted veneer swells.
If its swelled, very fine trimming is in order...with a very steady hand.
I always advise that veneer be glued as soon as it comes loose.
Now the door will be the easiest fix as it can be easily clamped after gluing.
The dresser top would be easy too if the loose veneer is on an edge and you have long bar clamps. Or if its loose towards the center of the dresser top and you have deep throated C-clamps that will reach.
So check this out first and have all the clamps at hand before any glue is applied.
If clamps are not available, assemble weights...real heavy weight...books will not do but bricks or cement blocks will.
Also have ready clamping blocks of wood. I'm sure you know these are placed on glued areas before clamping or weights are applied to protect the wood.
Use a good carpenters glue. Contact cement is not suitable for this repair.
The key to gluing back veneer is 100% glue coverage under the veneer.
Get the glue spread under the veneer using whatever method you devise. I use a very thin bladed long knife.
Bubbles in veneer often split, and something finer may be called for to get the glue under these areas. I have often used a large vet needle filled with glue to do this.
So Don really think the process through and have everything ready before you start.
One thing you will run into is glue squeeze.
To avoid the clamping blocks sticking to the veneer, place a couple layers of paper towel on the area before the clamping blocks...yes the towel will stick to the veneer, but it can be removed.
Carpenters glue is water based, so warm water is the first thing to try.
If that fails, I use fairly hot vinegar.
Of course if you plan on stripping the finish and replacing it, the stripper removes the glue very well indeed.
Just another thought.
You will often read that a warm iron applied to loose veneer will often soften glue and restick the veneer.
Certainly worth a try but I have never found this works as the old "hide glue" has disintegrated in most cases.
Cover the area to be ironed with a towel, and no steam as it will cloud the finish.
So Don thats about my knowledge on repairing veneer.
I've done a lot of it in my day, and nary a piece has ever lifted LOL
Good luck and thanks for a great question
Regards
Eileen
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Eileen: That was a great, detailed answer, but I'm sorry that I was not clear enough with my description of the problem. I have sections of veneer missing. - at least 12 sq. inches on the top and about 4 sq. inches on the door. It seems that I need to remove all the veneer and apply replacement. Will vinegar help me to remove the old stuff? Larry
AnswerHi again Larry.
Thats OK.
Removing veneer is super easy.
A hot iron will do it nicely.
Start at an edge, and have a scraper that can slide under the veneer.
Just a hot iron directly on the wood with your scraper underneath the veneer.
Move the iron and scraper forward as the glue softens.
Just takes minutes.
I keep an old iron in the shop for this purpose.
Good Luck
Eileen