Cabinets, Furniture, Woodworks/drawers and slides
Expert: Jamie Yocono - 7/29/2007
Questionwe are in the process of remodeling our kitchen and we have to choose between dovetail and ordinary joints, also we don't know if undermounted slides are better than side slides. plywood vs whole wood. so many desisions and we got confused. thanks .
AnswerHi Vali,
I'll try to address the specific questions you asked, I know it's confusing!
First- if your choice is between dovetails and ordinary joints- you're not giving me much information. There are MANY other joints that could fall into the category of "ordinary" joints- some are perfectly fine, others are a bad choice for a drawer joint. So off the top of my head, I would say dovetail, but here's why: a dovetail joint is put together in such a way that it's impossible to pull the drawer front off when opening the drawer. The way the joint is cut, it's stronger on one direction than the other, so if it's oriented correctly, it's an extremely strong joint for drawers.
But cabinet companies use dovetail joints as an excuse for marking up the price of the drawer. There are other joints out there that are just as strong, but just not as "trendy" as a dovetail. Like what? A locking rabbet joint, for one. When I make kitchen or bathroom cabinet drawers, I usually utilize that joint.
So- my answer to this particular question is- if the "ordinary" joint that they are referring to is a simple butt joint that's nailed, go with the dovetail. But if it's something that's well engineered, then it's probably just as good an option, at a lower cost, I'm guessing. If you have a link to a picture of the"ordinary" joint, send it to me.
Next- undermount or side drawer slides? Once again, it depends. It's more about the quality of the slide, than where it's located. There are varying degrees of drawer slides - anywhere from a $3 to a $30 glide. Better ones use ball bearings, rather than rollers. I like ones painted white (for kitchens or baths) or black (for furniture) rather than plain metal. And- I think the undermount slides are overpriced. I've considered using them, it's nice not to see a slide. But they're tough to mount, and require some extra work on the drawer box; it's just not cost effective. I don't want to have to cut a notch in the drawer box to mount one. So- my answer- I'd go with a side mounted slide, preferable a white one that offers full extension and a positive stop, and is self closing, to boot. I use a Grass glide just like that, a 22" slide that is probably what they would use, is about $6.00 a slide. They actually are pre drilled so that you can screw them into the side of the drawer box, or the bottom of the box. So it's handy when building a drawer with thinner stock.
Plywood vs. solid wood? Probably a personal preference, but I like solid wood. I've used Baltic Birch, which is that multi ply material that most people use. There are almost no voids in it, so you just see nice, attractive layers of wood. It's strong, too. But I just prefer solid. Strength wise? Well, if you're using dovetails, the strength is probably the same with solid or plywood. But if you're using a locking rabbet, the solid wood is better, since plywood is somewhat weak when it's cut into to form joinery. It's hard to explain here, but plywood has some great features, but joinery with plywood is limited.
Did I cover it all? Write back, or send a link to the cabinet manufacturer and I'll be glad to help again. Good luck, you're wise to get some opinions before making your choices.
Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
Las Vegas, NV
www.wooditis.com