Expert: Eileen Cronk - 5/14/2007

Question
QUESTION: Hello, I just recently had a  french door installed that is  made of pine treated wood.  I  plan to stain the door using a gel stain. Do I need to use the grain filler before the wood conditioner and gel stain?. Or fill with grain filler after the gel stain. Also what can of finish to use to protect the wood. Is their a hand rub finish available. Do I need to sand between the conditioner,  gel stain and finish.
thank you for your time in advance
Ronnie
ANSWER: Hi Ronnie
Nice to hear from you.
Ronnie every once in a while a question comes along that could be answered several ways. All of which would be correct to a point. This is such a question.
The only answer that I give in these cases is the answer based on my own personal experience. Perhaps my way of doing things is not always "according to Hoyle" LOL
But heres my answer.
First off I never use grain filler on pine.
I have used it only on coarse grained oak. I do not feel it necessary to use on pine.
Next I never use conditioner on pine. I have certainly tried it, but never liked the look of stain applied over top.
I agree with your use of gel stain for this door.
I have only in the past few years become a "moderate fan" of gel stain but only applied on pine. No other wood.
When staining pine with an oil based liquid stain like Minwax, you can actually get stain overlaps if you do not work in a super fast full sweep motion across the surface.
These stain overlaps cannot be removed and ruin the piece.
This does not happen with gel stain.
You do not need to sand between gel stain and the finish, but if you use conditioner you need to sand before applying the stain.
Now I must ask you a question. Is this door a factory made piece and when you say "pine treated wood", what the heck did they treat it with. That will have a bearing on what you do now as far as finishing goes.
And a final word. Most unfinished pre made pine furniture or in this case your door, usually says "ready to finish".
This is not true in most cases.
The wood will have what I call "planer glaze" on the surface caused by the planing machine the wood was put through before building the piece.
This is not a problem if you plan on painting, but its certainly a problem if you want the beauty of the natural wood.
So the solution is an exceptionally good sanding prior to applying the stain.
I start with 220 grit paper and then use medium steel wool and then fine steel wool.
A final finish in the case of your door should be something durable...simply because its a door.
I recommend Minwax fast drying poly in a low luster.
You can hand rub multiple coats of tung oil if you prefer, but you will not get the durability.
Ronnie please get back to me if this is not 100% clear. And remember this is only my experience here. Others may not agree LOL
Kind Regards
Eileen


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello Eilen,
thank you for your prompt response.  I failed to ask you what to do for the nail holes in my door, the  result of the install. What should I use to cover the holes.  The door is a factory made french style sliding glass patio door. I will sand before I apply the gel stain for the planer glaze. As for the poly finish I had planned to use  minwax hand rubbed finish. thank you once again.
Ronnie

Answer
Hi again Ronnie.
If I plan to use a dark stain on a piece, I use a dark colored wood filler.
And a light stain of course a light colored wood filler.
I use Elmers wood filler, but once again everyone has their preferences.
A hint on wood filling...LOL..just because I like properly filled holes.
Always fill twice.
So fill, sand, fill, and sand again. One application just does not cut it on something like this.
And watch the sanding technique. Always with the grain.
Often tiny sanding scratches do not appear until after the stain is applied.
So now you know everything I do LOL
And I like your choice of finish.
Good Luck and Thanks for some great questions
Eileen