Expert: Jamie Yocono - 1/22/2006

Question
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Followup To
Question -
I am planning to build a TV stand/cabinet for my livingroom. I'd like to take advantage of some furniture grade 3/4 inch birch plywood I already have and need to select dimensional lumber to match. Since birch seems to be a little hard to locate, and I don't particularly like the staining properties of poplar, I was wondering if you might suggest some other species which would stain and look similar to the birch. I plan to use a medium to slightly dark stain

Thanks for your help

Carl Meyers
Answer -
Hi Carl,

I think the key to trying to match Birch on your TV stand project is to choose a wood that matches it GRAIN-WISE as opposed to color wise. While you're never going to match the plywood by using anything other than Birch. But you can use a similarly grained wood, and stain the two to match, and you should be OK.

My first choice would be Cherry, which is somewhat similar in the tightness of grain and density, as well. However- it will be darker than the Birch. If you build the piece and then stain it, you will have a (somewhat) two toned piece. In instances like this, I sometimes pre-stain the lighter wood, then assemble it. You have to be careful, you don't want to get any of the finish on the areas that might need to accept glue. This is especially true if you're using a tinted Danish Oil as your stain, as glue will not adhere to an oiled surface. But if you use a basic stain,  then you should be OK.

Next choice would be Poplar, which is much less expensive, and absorbs stains nicely. I know you mentioned Poplar, and that you didn't like it that much. It often has a greenish tint, and this can reveal itself in the final finishing.  BUT- if you get the opportunity to choose your boards at the lumberyard, look for wood that is less green, and more tan/blond. I've had good luck with those blond boards. Maybe you could use the blonder Poplar for the pieces that will really show, and the greener ones for the parts that won't show.

Last choice would be Maple. I don't particularly love the way Maple accepts finishes, but it's blond and will match your Birch pretty nicely. It's expensive and difficult to work with, so again- it's my last choice. It just depends on what you have access to purchasing.

In terms of expense, Poplar will be the cheapest, and Cherry and Maple will be closely priced. Again- you could use the Poplar for structural components, and the other woods where it shows.

Good luck, I hope this helps. Feel free to write back with any other questions you might have after reading this.

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
www.wooditis.com
Las Vegas, NV


Thanks for your help--if I were able to locate some birch dimensional lumber do you think it would stain(Watco Danish Oil) the same as the plywood? My one objection to poplar is that it seems to show blotchy black areas when using a darker stain

Answer
Hi Carl,

Technically speaking, while the two forms of Birch (plywood vs. solid stock) will match better than Birch and a different wood, you need to know that the cut of the wood will still create a difference in the finish.

Plywood is made up of an odd number of plies, with a better veneer on the outsides. Whether it's a rotary cut veneer, or a plain sliced veneer, the veneer itself will finish differently than solid wood. Is it a big enough difference to notice? Probably not. I suspect if you look around the average person's home, most of their furniture is probably made out of both solid wood and plywood. While a purist might notice the difference in the way the various components accept the finish, most people will not know the difference.

I know what you mean about the way that Poplar can finish rather blotchy.  But frankly, I find that quite common when I use tinted Watco on plywood (to stain it) regardless of the specie. I would test the tinted Watco on a scrap of Birch plywood to make sure you're going to like it. I think it often makes the wood look muddy.

I suggest using a Minwax stain (oil base) to achieve the color you want, and then Natural (clear) Watco for the final finish coats. I've had good luck with Minwax stains and clear Watco, better than using the tinted Watco only. I think there was an article in Wood Magazine a while ago about this exact subject. It suggested sealing the plywood first before staining it. You can look at Wood magazines website and do a search for the article. It might be helpful to you.

Good luck, I hope this helps. Feel free to write back with any other questions you might have after reading this. BTW- I used to live up near Cleveland and there was an investigative reporter with your name on the local TV station. Are you famous?  :)

Jamie Yocono
Wood It Is! Custom Cabinetry
www.wooditis.com
Las Vegas, NV