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Cadillac Repair/1992 sts no heater motor blower

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Question
The heater blower motor was not working, a whack with a wrench would get it going. After about a week, the wrench trick wouldn't work. Replaced the motor, still not working. No voltage to motor. Replaced control module (used 93 sts), no voltage. Second control module(92 eldorado used), no voltage. Replaced module w/transister, under hood by heater core (used 92 eldorado, different appearance). Still no voltage to blower motor. The module under hood appears to be used only on eldorados and sevilles.If I were to buy it new it would cost about $185. The control module hundreds. I love the car it has 160k but runs very well. All fuses appear fine and the modules seem to operate correctly.Are there any fusible links or hidden fuses? Any tips or suggestions would be much appreciated.  Thanks Marlin

Answer
Hi Marlin,

I will admit I am not an expert on your problem. It appears as though you have checked a lot.

Here is what I know that goes back to the 1980s Eldos, Sevilles on the blower motors. The problem was that it either would not shut off or would not work like yours. I changed many modules under the hood because of this problem. I saw many where toggle switches with resistors wired in.

One thing I remember well. When ever I was at the Caddy dealer for parts I would see two or three of these cars with the hoods up getting new modules.

I think Cadillac has had this problem since the early 80s and stuck us all.

Run battery power to the fan and see if it works. That way you know the blower works for sure first. Check your wiring at the switch for power.

I don't want to tell you to spin the wheel and get the module under the hood, but I do know from personal experience that is a common problem.

I will tell you if the motor quits on either one of my caddys, it many not be right, but I will put a toggle in and have hi blower. It would be the cheapest way to go.

Good luck.

Let me know what happens.

Rob

Cadillac Repair

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Rob Painter

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Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet. My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine. This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle: Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?

Experience

Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.

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