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QUESTION: hi i have a 95 deville that will power up when the key is turned over but it wont kick over could this be a negative ground short or the starter thanks for your responses

ANSWER: Hi Anthony,

I really don't understand your question. Do you mean the lights come on in the RUN position, but the engine won't crank? If so, the first thing I would consider is the factory anti-theft (anti-owner) system.

Riddled with problems and being an antique, that little resistor controlled junk with the "chip" in the key is notorious for no crank problems.

I am not saying that absolutely is your problem, but 95% of the time it is.

Just for fun, try tiltling the steering wheel up and down a bunch of times and try to start.

If that doesn't work, try shifting through the gears.

The only reason I say this is that if the engine starts, you have broken VATS wires in the steering column and it is just best to bypass all together and at the same time install a HIDDEN starter kill switch.

If you find that to be the problem, the VATS is easy to bypass.

Rob

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: ok like ill stick the key in the ignition and turn it over all of the dash lights come on but it wont krank over so i was wondering could it be a ground or possibly the starter?

Answer
Hi,


You description of the symptom, of where the engine will not crank is consistent with the GM VATS Anti-theft system.
This has nothing to do with a short as you put it, in the starter circuit, and the common problem I am referring to is located in the steering column.

In order for the engine to crank, the vehicle's computer needs to see the use of the correct resistance key.
The ignition lock for this vehicle has a 2-wire harness in which one wire feeds up the column with a contact on one side of the lock keyway. There is another contact inside the front of the lock cylinder that runs down the steering column. When you insert the key into the lock, the resistor chip on the key blade (Commonly incorrectly referred to as a computer chip, which it isn't) completes the circuit.

The two VATS wires are very thin and commonly break inside the plastic casing. Once broken, the circuit is open and the vehicle's computer cannot read the resistance from the key and the engine won't crank.

The reason I told you to tilt the steering column and shift the gears, is that it is possible that the broken wire will reconnect allowing the engine to start.

The most common complaint with these VATS equipped vehicles at the dealer was "engine starts at times."
If you replace the over priced ignition lock, the problem will just show up again. It is better just to bypass this junk.

The only problem with the bypass and if the car is stolen (takes as little as 30 seconds to defeat a steering column where the engine can start without a key), the insurance company will deny your theft claim, because of the ignorance and arrogance of the insurance company, because according to them, a vehicle so-equipped is "Unstealable."

This is the reason that you would now have to install a hidden starter disable switch for security.

Many believe thieves will not steal old cars. This is not true. These cars are great for joy rides and to commit other crimes, and since they are older, they just blend in.

Unless there is obvious damage like a broken window on a cold day, or the trunk lock being ripped out, cops rarely pull these cars over.

Try playing with different tilt positions and shifting the transmission and trying to start the vehicle.

If it starts, you know that is the problem. I have seen people far too many times replacing starters and everything else, but finding the actual problem--the VATS.


Note: Some may not realize, but I donate my own time answering these questions and I really enjoy answering them to the best of my ability. The only reward, for this I can get from this site is for you to fill out the expert rating and nomination.
I would really appreciate your input with your nomination. Thanks to all!
Please feel free to check out my website as well!

Rob Painter http://www.autotheftexpert.com


Good luck,

Rob

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Rob Painter

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Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet. My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine. This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle: Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?

Experience

Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.

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