AboutRob Painter Expertise Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet.
My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine.
This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle:
Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?
Experience Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.
Question I have a 2002 Caddy SLS. The battery will only hold a charge for about a week, then it is drained. It jumps starts okay, but the charge will only last for a few days.
I took it to Advanced Auto for a diagnosis and they said that both the battyer and alternator were okay. However, their the test did show that there was a 1.5 drain taking place somewhere in the car.
I let the car run for ahile, then turned it off. I felt the bulbs in the trunk, glove compartemnt and ubder the hood. Both the glove compartment and trunk bulbs were cool, and the hood bulb was blown.
Help! Any suggestions on what is happening. I even took it to a dealer and they couldn't find the problem.
Answer Hello,
Actually, relatively easy to find, at least the circuit and then the work starts!
With a meter or a test light between the battery at the positive cable, remove the positive cable and put the meter or light between cable and post. The draw will be seen. Start removing and replacing fuses one by one until test light goes out. That circuit is your drain. Then you need to find what is on that circuit and eliminate one by one until you find the problem.
An example would be a bad cigarette lighter. You have isolated to that circuit. Now, you would disconnect each lighter until the test light goes out. Once the bad lighter is found, you can either leave it disconnected or replace it.
Now, please bare with me and understand it has been over 10 years since I have done this and I only remember hooking a test light between the cable and the battery terminal. My memory is slightly foggy on this, but it always worked.
Pulling bulbs is futile.
You may end up having to get a factory electrical service manual to determine what all is on each circuit. You might be able to purchase one on Ebay.
The main thing right now is to find the circuit with the parasitic draw.
P.S. check your owner's manual to determine how many fuse boxes are in the car.
The only fuses you are interested in ar for constant power and not switched power. The stereo works of of ignition switched power, but the memory works from constant power for your display.
Also if fuses are not the problem, go to the circuit breakers like those for the seats and retained power.
