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Cadillac Repair/Blower Motor Resister Problems

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QUESTION: 1986 Cad Deville 4100 front wheel I bought a new 12484912 blower motor resister because the blower would-not shut off with the key off.  I could unplug the blower resister and the blower shut off?
The new part stopped the problem for a few weeks and now the blower stays on again with key off?  What is causing this expensive problem?

ANSWER: Hi,

I hate to tell you this, but your new part  has failed. I hope it is covered under warranty,

this was a horrible design and yet from 1981 to the 2000s Cadillac commonly had this problem.

In the 80's and 90s this was so common that walking through a Cadillac service department at any given time up to 5 cars had the hood up and the resistor module was being changed.

With this in mind it justifies the fact your new part took a poop.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: How come after 24 years this happened and then two in a row?  Strange or is there another cause?

Answer
Hello,

As I said, Cadillac knew they had this problem since 1981 and never fixed it. The cause--I don't know and nether will anyone else. It is a non-serviceble molded unit.

Not strange--just Cadillac junk!

I love Caddys. I have owned over 25, but there are actually three very, very common problems that pop up. I forgot to mention their fine (being smart) so-called anti-theft system from 1990 and up that failed all the time leaving the owner stranded, the over heating and the blower motor.

I remember the module as being very pricey at around $200. Yes, they were junk in some cases right out of the box. As you said, some would last 24 years and some would last weeks. Please don't try to apply logic to the failure of the module. It is an electronic component which usually have a 90 day warranty.

The next one you put in could last another 24 years or 24 days.

I see all these ridiculous lawsuits and yet someone should sue GM for these known problems they never fixed for over 20 years.

Cadillac Repair

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Rob Painter

Expertise

Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet. My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine. This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle: Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?

Experience

Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.

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