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Cadillac Repair/ignition cylider replacement

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Question
QUESTION: 1989 eldorado, how do i replace it? Is it simple or should I take it some where? It has telescopic wheel

ANSWER: Hello,

Of yeah, you picked a nice one (sarcasm). Before I get into all this, I need to know why you need to replace, being as there are multiple reasons with different corrections.
Is it equipped with a visible chip in the key blade?

Does engine not shut off or will ignition not turn on? Is key stuck in ignition?

The mechanical issues can be challenging on this style steering column, but at any rate, I can help you. Just need to know why you think you

Get back to me and I will assist you.

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---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: The key is not chipped. The key turned on without any resistance and spins freely. Had to disconnect the battery to shut the electrical system down

Answer
Hello,

Gee, I know what I am talking about don't I?

Problem is not an ignition lock problem totally. This was a crappy design column and was very similar as to the old square Berreta, Regal and W bodies in that era, but in a round version.

Here is what you have at minimum, but is rarely the total problem. This ignition lock cylider has a gear attached to the back of it. The gear falls off commonly when the rack/rod assembly breaks. Before you attempt to do this, you better make sure parts are still available over and beyond the cylinder or else all your effort will be for nothing.

This column was only used on Eldos, Allantes and Sevilles from 88-93. See if you can locate the rod/rack assembly. The gear has one large tooth. The large tooth fits into the large notch in the rack which is connected to the rod that fits inside the electrical ignition switch at the top of the column under the dash.
The ignition lock cylinder when rotated on this style column pushes on the rod and pushes the detent in the electrical ignition switch to start the engine.

If you were to install the lock cylinder with a broken rack, you will have the same result you have now. This problem was so common in this style column and the square columns in the W body cars.
In fact, because of this knowledge, it was always in the back of my mind and I carried a small vice grips and the tools to drop the column in the event I had the same issue with my Allante.

If GM does not stock the rack/rod assembly, possibly try Allante source or other Allante parts suppliers on the Internet.

If I were you, would not even take it apart without location the rack/rod--very, very common issue!

You need to rent a steering wheel puller, and lock plate remover. You need to buy a 1" 5/16 x 18 cap screw. Round head with allen center. You need an allen wrench combination tool. You need a a torx screwdriver (#20 if I remember right. A needle nose screwdriver.

Remove the horn pad. Most have 9/32 or pillips on the back side of the column. Follow horn wire to cancel cam (where plugged into the column)Push down slightly o plastic, turn counter clockwise. Wire will come out. Take 9/32 and remove 3 screws holding telescopic lever. Take needle nose and loosen the telescopic stud if not already loose, unscrew and remove. Note the notch location on wheel compared to steering shaft. Remove steering wheel nut 13/16, remove steering wheel. Remove lock plate. Remove 3 turn signal screws and 1 pivot screw on the left side. Remove pivot. Pull turn signal switch out and let it hang. At this point you will see where the gear fell off the lock cylinder as well as the rack it attaches to.
Use torx screwdriver to get lock cylinder out. This screw is located about 5 o' clock in the column. From the factory, these are extremely tight. Hit screwdriver a couple of times first before attempting to unscrew. Remove screw. Take you needle nose and grab top and bottom of white key buzzer tang. Gently pull upward. you might have to wiggle a bit up and down, but it pulls outward.
Pull out the lock cylinder. Stick your finger in the lock cylinder hole a get the spring for the key buzzer.

Reverse if that's all that is wrong, but I have found the reason gear falls off is because the rack broke.

You need to remove the lower dash and use a 13 mm (1/2" in a pinch) with extentions, but before doing that, pull clip from shift bowl for shift indicator. Some slide off, some have a screw. Remove the two front column bolts and loosen the two rear.
On the top of the column on the left side, there is a screw and a std. The screw is 5/16 and the std is 11/32 and the head of the std is 5/16. Lift off the electrical ignition switch. Pull the rof from the detent. Take your new rack/rod and run it up through the bottom of the column after you removed the broken rack. Line it up so now lock cylinder large tooth will like up with large notch in rack. Rotate to check rod is going back and forth. Put ignition lock screw in. Tighten.\Take some vasoline, grease or something and put it on the end of a screwdriver. Very small amount. Turn lock cylinder on. Look in the key buzzer hole. a tab stick out. Take screwdriver with grease and push upward. There is only one way key buzzer sits on buzzer. Squeeze together and inset into key buzzer hole. Push down. Install signal switch and make sure it seats. Install screws. You will see a notch the pivot ball slides into. The large head phillips is tightened on the pivot. Reinstall lock plate, cancel cam. Install 5/16 18 cap screw. tighten. Install lock plate compressor. Tighten lock plate till grove is seen. install the c clip with needle nose. It can only fit one way. Once half in, take screwdriver and tap in with palm.
Remove cap screw. and finish putting back together opposite as removed.

Install rod into detent of electrical ign switch. Install stud and put screw in. Tighten both for now. See if engine starts. If it starts and has accessories Put ignition cylinder in lock position in. Hold ignition switch down and close to column. Try starting engine. If it starts, turn off. Check accessories. If all works, no adjustment is required. Leave stud in, remove screw. Put high beam actuator on, lining up rod in center button. install. Put screw in and tighten. Put nut on. install. Using turn signal lever and pulling, you should here a click. if not you will need to loosen and run back and forth until it works properly. Tighten column. Put transmission in neutral. Line up shift indicator to neutral and that should be set. Reassemble lower dash. Check everything and you are done!

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Rob Painter

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Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet. My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine. This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle: Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?

Experience

Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.

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