Expert: Rob Painter - 11/6/2011

Question
QUESTION: I bought a 1997 Cadillac Deville at auction. The drivers side window would not roll down. I pulled the switch assembly up and one of the wires had been cut. I repaired the wire, the drivers side window went down, but would not go up. I replaced the master switch, and it worked for about a week, and now the window is stuck midway, and it will not go up or down. I can't afford to take it in, how do I proceed from here?

ANSWER: Hello,

The first thing you need to confirm is that you have power at the switch and make sure the switch did not burn up. The only reason I even say that is you said when you got the car there was a cut wire and I would ask why.
Then if all that is confirmed, you need to pull the door trim panel. Check what is used for a regulator. It was common for years to use a plastic drive belt that breas. These can be bought in a bulk roll from GM. Haven't changed one for a while, but they were pretty simple when you removed the regulator motor/assembly.

Now, around 1996, 1997 GM started using the cable style POS like the imports and Dodge Durango. My 1998 Intrigue has this junk. It would have cost me $250 a door and all 4 windows were screwed! You won't know until you pull the panel off. If its the pully type, you will know immediately with cables hanging and bound. In that case, you need to get the regulator motor assy. After market is a lot cheaper. Try Rock auto and you can find them on the web.
Now if you are not dealing with that, then the motor is fried. You can squeeze your arm down in the door and pull the connector. If you are getting power to the connector moving the window switch up and down, the motor is junk. If you need to get the window up in this case, what you can do is plug in the connector into the motor. Take an extension, pipe or whatever you can get to the motor and try tapping the motor with a hammer. Window may go up one last time for service.
GM always had problems with their power window motors and spoken from the words of a GM dealer tech and another 17 years working on them in my own business.

That should keep you busy for a while--lol

http://www.autotheftexpert.com

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Yes, that should keep me busy for now! The funny thing is, I pulled the switch assembly up again and unplugged it, just to check the contacts and see if they are clean. I looked at it, and then plugged it right back in, and now the back drivers side window will not respond, either. I am just thankful that one is already rolled up! I will be working on this over the next several days, and post the results. Thanks.

Answer
Hello,

Sounds like maybe you have an electrical mess going on. Check power on all switch positions first. Whatever you run into, I can help you along the way. We will get it fixed for you. thank you so much for the rating.

i have volunteered my time on allexperts for around 10 years. They have a record of over 10,000 questions I have answered mot counting categories I discontinued over the years. I love this Cadillac category because I actually have forgotten just how much I know about this subject. Working for GM dealers for 11 years, 17 years of having a business that repaired theft recovered vehicles and over time owning over 20 Cadillacs. It is actually amazing what is in my head.

In fact, because of my knowledge of actually repairing vehicles, I would and still do get into a rift in my forensic industry determining how a reported stolen vehicle was last operated against the all knowing locksmiths. They sadly know nothing about electrical/electronic and nothing other than how to service a lock or make a key. I was actually astounded these guys knew nothing, and so often I would oppose them in court when the insured was denied on their theft claim because of their crappy report, we prevailed.
This is because the courts are so loose on qualifying experts. I have always said, in most cases, a wino would be qualified as an expert on wine!
Nothing beats actual experience as you are seeing. In my profession I look at every car as if I were going to steal it (never stolen a car, but was in direct repair of over 10,000). This is why I have the electrical experience. Trim panels ripped out, switches cut, broken feed wires. seen it all. Diagnosed it all. Fixed it all! I have even bypassed the "unstealable" transponder anti-theft systems! You know, the ones that the manufacturer and insurance companies say impossible to do! I talk the talk, I walk the walk. It's not bragging if it is true!

I put these comments out not directly to you, but to go on the web. Have never done so like this, but what the heck!

I have answered these questions to assist people like you from getting ripped of by the types of goofs I was describing. Doesn't matter if locksmith, technician or whatever line of work is involved. You can take my answers to the bank. If I don't know the answer, I am not afraid to say I don't know.

I just had a Corvette that had an electrical fire. The arson investigator stated undetermined. GM said they would not pay unless it was determined what started the fire. I found the fire cause and am now writing a report as to how one over heated wire started this fire, and I can prove it in a scientific manner so there is no doubt. My findings can be replicated! That is one of those Ah Ha moments and I have many. I have such a passion for fixing wiring problems. Can you tell? LOL

Anyway, sorry I went on and on, and have never done it before, but we will get your problem fixed for good, one way or the other. I can walk you through any diagnostics here.
People like you are the reason I have been on this site so long. People that really appreciate the help. Thanks again.

I guess we will start at the switch. Did you get it used or new? Used switch asemblies are a problem from junk yards, because if the door glass is missing or broken, they are exposed to lots of water from rain. Which wire was cut?

Thanks again for your question!

http://www.autotheftexpert.com