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Cadillac Repair/No fuel testted with noid light no electrical current

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Question
Can you assist me. I'm baffled. I have a 1990 Eldorado 4.5 lt.
Done just about all I could to find the source of the problem. Car stalled out and I couldn't get it to re-start. It will start
only when starter fluid is sprayed into the throttle body. So I dropped the fuel tank and replaced the fuel pump, strainer, fuel  
filter, fuel pressure regulator, removed all the fuel injectors, replaced the spark plugs and performed a complete turn up. I checked for current at the injectors with a noid light and found no illumination when the key was in the on position or when the engine was cranked. I got a used ECM with matching ID numbers and tried that. There was no change when I re did the noid test. Does the BCM have any thing to do with the electrical current to the fuel injector harness? Des the ECM and or BCM need to be re-programed? Possible you think it may be the coil rely in the distributor? Still trying  to find the source for no electrical current to activate the fuel injectors. I checked all the electrical fuses, relays and grounds. I dumb founded. What you suggest I do further? I look forward to your reply. Thanks.

Answer
Hello,

Look, I am not at the car and because of that can only guess. Don't give me a bad rating on knowledge because we are in uncharted territory.

The first thing that concerns me is that you have no lights with ignition on. I am wondering if you even have ignition ON power at the ignition switch. No, I am not speaking of the ignition lock/key cylinder that everyone thinks of as ignition.

The ignition switch is located at the top of the steering column under the dash. If you don't have ignition power you won't have spark or fuel. This is the battery voltage that runs the engine. I am thinking you may have a fried ignition switch, but it could be in the wiring too.

Once you drop the steering column, and you need to do this for access to the switch, there are 2 connectors that go into the ignition switch. To remove, I want the battery disconnected. you will see a tin holder on the top of the switch. Gently pry with a screw driver upward maybe a half inch. Pull out both connectors paying attention to the order they are in. Pull wiring with connectors straight out. Put your nose to the connectors and see if you can smell any burning. If so, you need a new switch.
If not, lightly tap the tin you pried upward so it is relatively even again. Install the connector nearest the firewall first and make sure there is a good connection. reinstall cable on battery. Install the second connector making sure it is plugged in tight. Turn ignition on. Do you have the warning lights on now? If so, your problem should be fixed and engine should run. If not, get back to me before reinstalling column.

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Rob Painter

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Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet. My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine. This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle: Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?

Experience

Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.

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