Expert: Rob Painter - 7/1/2011

Question
Rob, you seem to be an expert on problems with anti-theft GM systems. I have a 2000 Eldorado (72,000 miles). Yesterday the "Starting Disabled, Remove Key" message came on after I left the house for work. Rather than return home and then turn the car off, I pulled to the side of the road and turned the car off. As you can guess, I haven't been able to get it started again. One Caddy technician suggested a 30-minute process that culminates with the system ready to "re-learn" the code in the key chip. Well, that didn't work. Also, after awhile the "tell-tale" also shows the "Theft Deterent Problem, Car May Not Start" message. After checking numerous posts on the Internet, it now seems that the likely problem is that the wires from the key cylinder are broken and the ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced. I have ordered a new key from the local dealer, and that may be here tomorrow. My hunch, though, is that the new key will not let me start the car. It seems likely that the two wires from the cylinder would break after 72,000 miles of turning the steering wheel back and forth. BTW, one post said he found a mechanic that would bypass the passkey and everything is fine. That doesn't seem like a good way to go, however. Am I on the right track? Anything else I might want to consider? Thanks much for your help.

Forrest

Answer
VATS

You need to bypass this junk. It was designed to fail. You need to realize, and don't be analytical here, I have been involved in thousands of these failures. You could go out and order a lock cylinder and have it work for a couple weeks. Its just a very crappy design!!!

Before getting the key cut, tell the dealer to keep it. Do not waste the money on a lock, because it will fail again. mileage has nothing to deal with it. Age does and since these locks are not being produced anymore, they sit on the shelves. Every time you turn the key, those wires are moving. Every time you shift it, the wires are moving.

Chances are real good you could get the car to start one last time by playing with it. Tilting the column in different position and shifting and then back into park.

A very, very common no start problem was built into these vehicles with their so-called anti theft system that has stopped more owners and left them stranded than thieves.’
The chip embedded in the key blade is not a computer chip as some think, but merely a resistor. There are 14 different resistor values used. You can measure the resistor chip on the key with an ohm meter to find its value. If you go to radio shack to purchase one, you are allowed to be within 10%.

Alarm stores have an abundance of the GM VATS bypass kit which comes with all 14 resistors and a sheet with their values. Included with every alarm with remote start and are rarely used these days

Cadillac never manufactured the locks and keys and this was subbed out to Strattec of Milwaukee. So, the dealer and the locksmith get the lock and key from the same place, but the dealer has at least 2 middlemen.

The dealer will first charge $50-$75 per key and when that doesn’t work and they scratch their head, they will hit you another $300 to change the ignition lock and 2-wire wiring harness. It’s common to see a dealer charge $500 for this repair and $250 from a locksmith and if you are not mechanically inclined, the alarm store may bypass it all together for $50.

There are 2-very thin wires that run up and down the steering column with contacts in the front of the lock cylinder that contact the resistor in the key to complete the circuit. This very ancient (introduced in 1986-how high tech would a 1986 computer be?) was riddled with the same problem. The wires break inside the insulation. Even if you were physically looking at the wires, you would never see the break!

These thin wires break, causing the engine not to crank. The wires have to be located at the junction box going through the firewall under the dash. They are the only two white wires as thin as old telephone wire. Commonly in an orange sheath hat will make it look like a regular 12 gauge wire. You need to move up from the junction box making sure you found the 2 small wires about 6”, cut the sheath. You will no longer use the wiring to and from the column. Slide back some shrink tube. Solder the resistor to the wire from the junction block. Heat the shrink tube. Attach to the other cut thin white wire and do the same. Now, that’s fixed and the computer thinks the correct value resistor is being used every time.

Old cars are stolen all the time and the kids know that this was such a problem, that chances are good the system is bypassed.
I just examined a questionable theft in a 1993 Suburban a couple of weeks ago because there was no ignition damage.
Well on the same style column there does not have to be. All the locking mechanisms and starting and shifting are accessed on the left side of the steering column exactly opposite the ignition lock. Amount of time to break the column and drive off by a teenager that probably learned the process in jail-30 seconds!! We have rebuilt over 10,000 of these columns from theft or for being loose!

You need to put in a starter kill (starter interrupt. Easy to do. All you need is some plastic cable ties. A toggle switch from a parts store-single throw, some yellow butt connectors. A package of 10 foot 12 gauge wire, a cheap test light, electrical tape.

Your electrical ignition switch is located at the top of the steering column under the dash. You are looking for either a yellow or purple wire coming from that switch. (Don’t go into the large yellow air bag wire!!! Lots of warnings on that one. You are looking for this wire running with many others coming from the ignition switch. Put your test light in the yellow or purple wire; turn the key/lock cylinder to start. You will have only power on start. Cut the wire.
Take your 12 gauge and cut in half. Tape together side by side making a harness. Strip all the ends. Put your yellow but connector on and then the next. Strip the starter wire ends. Attach the 12 gauge ends with the but connectors Crimp. Tape tight on wire, putting pressure on butt connector so the wires won’t come loose.
Connect your toggle on the other end. Take your cable ties and attach your harness to a dash brace or harness in multiple locations. Take your harness, run it under the left kick panel and under driver’s sill plate to about the middle. Put your switch there, exposing only the toggle lever. You could put a rag on top, or get some touch up the color of your interior to paint over the throw. Once installed, tie up any loose wiring under dash and reinstall dash hush panel.

You can be driving and flip the switch. It will not stall engine, it just won’t crank until you toggle the switch again.

The idiots in the newspaper business across the country are acting like stealing old cars these days is a new phenomenon. Its not! Great for joy rides while the newer cars are more complicated.

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