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Cadillac Repair/1989 caddy heater and auto laevelling


I have an 89 cadillac deville,2dr. when i turn the ignition off, the heater fan and auto levelling pump keep running until battery is dead. where can i look for the issue? also the steering collumn is not a match for the rest of the interior


The column is not a match for the car because its probably either a former theft or the bolts in the steering column came loose and the column was no longer safe. I have rebuilt thousands of these columns, but some less experienced would just put a junk yard column in and not paint it. Since we had the steering column completely disassembled, we would paint the parts to match individually. You can go to a parts store, they can look up the interior color and supply you with paint. The problem is that if you do not remove the column, you are going to have overspray.

As for your leveling and blower problem.

You may have two issues going on here. Yu may have a blown air shock(s) to cause the compressor to continue to run.

As for the blower, you are going to have to bypass because the $350.00 fan blower module is no longer available. Unfortunately, bypassed you will only have high and off.

The resistor module for the blower motor is a sealed unit and can't be serviced. Located under the hood at the firewall on the passenger side. Reach down to the blower motor, remove the wire and if you follow it up, it leads to the module.

You need to go to the parts store and get a high amperage 12v single throw toggle, a 10' pack of 12g wiring, in line fuse holder, a 30 amp fuse, wire cutter/stripper, box of scotch lock for an offshoot connection, cable ties, yellow butt connectors electrical tape and a cheap 12v test light.

Install--Cut heater wire with plug. Give yourself extra wiring for accessibility. Open your package of 12g wire.Go under dash and remove the black hush panel. Find a wiring boot that goes through the firewall. Straighten a coat hanger and poke it through the boot. Attach your wire on the other end of the coat hanger. You can bend he coat hanger tightly over the wire and keep the sharp point as far down as possible. Tape an inch one the wire and coat hanger side tightly, but lightly. Go under the hood and manipulate the wire through the boot. Once wire is in engine compartment cut the wire to separate it from the coat hanger. Strip the wire and install butt connector and attach to heater wire. Tape the butt connector.  Put the plug back on the blower motor. Up a foot from the plug, cut the wire again and use butt connectors and tape to secure fuse holder.
Back under dash: you can drill a hole in the hush panel and install the toggle. Leave some extra wiring for now. With the test light, under the steering column you are looking for a wire that is only ignition powered. If you turn ignition off there is no power. Install your scotch lock into that wire. Put the connector for the scotch lock together. Stretch the wire over to toggle location. Give yourself plenty of wire. Cut. Take the end running from ignition power and put on one side of the toggle. Look under dash in area for a bunch of black wires bolted into dash. Strip the wire and loosen the bolt.Place wire under bolt and tighten. Stretch to toggle giving yourself extra wire. Cut and attach to other side of toggle. Discard remaining wire and reattach hush panel. Go back under hood. Install fuse and cable tie out of the way. Turn the fan on with the ignition on and the toggle flipped in the right position. Flip toggle and blower should be off. Te battery will never run down with a blower motor problem again.

These modules failed so often that any given time in the dealer, one would see the hoods up and the modules being changed. A fine Cadillac problem that spanned for years.

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Rob Painter


Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet. My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine. This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle: Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?


Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.

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