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Cadillac Repair/1981 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham


I have a 1981 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham that has only 7200 original miles on it. When I drive the car, it stalls out on me when I'm going down the road. It has the 8-6-4 valve engine and I have taken to the Cadillac dealership, and they have no idea what's causing the problem. They can only suggest getting a major tune up on it, and cant guarantee that will fix the problem. When the car is idled... it runs fine. It never cuts off, but as soon as it is in motion, it cuts off when I'm not applying the gas or I use the brake coming to a stop sign. Do you have any suggestions on how i can fix this problem, because i have taken it to a couple of dealership, and they both can only suggest getting a major tune up.

Hello fellow Texan,

This sounds like a really nice car. The 368 is one of Cadillac's better engines. This is not your correction, but a suggestion. Dump the 4-6-8 and run on 8 cylinders. All it takes is to disconnect one wire on the driver's side under the hood and if you need more detail, I am sure I can get it for you. Cadillac had severe problems with this fine idea and it simply will give you trouble. On second thought, that may even add to the issue you have now.

Low miles are great except they too come with issues. I hope you flush the transmission and brake fluids and change the differential oil. The anti freeze/coolant has long been overdue to be changed by 29 years if never changed. These are things people commonly don't think of forgetting about the age and the expiration of these fluids.

It is possible you have a vacuum leak at the TBI. Gaskets dry out over time. You can let the engine idle and spray some carb cleaner near the outside of the throttle body. If the engine speeds up, check the vacuum lines for a leak.

Chances are real good because f the age this is what you are dealing with. I would also suggest changing the fuel filter. Unleaded gasoline turns to varnish in 3 months. How old is this car?

Let me know how it works out.

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Rob Painter


Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet. My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine. This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle: Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?


Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.

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