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Cadillac Repair/BLOWER MOTOR RESISTER

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Question
QUESTION: LOCATION AND REPLACEMENT BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR. A LOT OF SMOKE WAS POURING OUT FORM AIR INSIDE AIR VENTS, NOT BLOWING OUT, AND BM NOT BLOWING NOW. I HAVE NOT CHECKED BM YET, BUT I WILL.

ANSWER: Hi,
Think you would like to tell me a year make and model.

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---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: HI I AM SORRY, ITS A 1994 CAD DEVIL 4.9 58093 MI THE REASON I THINK ITS THE BMR IS THAT IT WAS WHITE SMOKE A LOT OF IT FOR ABOUT TOW MINUETS & LEFT AN ODER LIKE A BUNT RESISTER, (I RECONCILED FOR MY ET DAYS IN THE NAVY). ITS EXCELLENT IN EVERY OTHER WAY, EXCEPT INSTRUMENT PANEL SHOWS SERVICE RIDE CONTROL,(CAD RIDES LEVEL ON RIDE CONTROL PROBLEMS) & DR SD DOOR LOCK DOSE NOT GO DOWN ALL THE WAY TO LOCK. I REACH OVER & LOCK IT. NOT CONCERNED MUCH ABOUT THOSE PROBLEMS AT THIS TIME.          THANK YOU FOR GIVING YOUR TIME , & EXCELLENT ADVICE, I REALLY APPRECIATE IT VERY MUCH, THANK YOU JERRY.

Answer
Hi,

Here is the situation. Cadillac since 1980 have had blower issues do to inadequate engineering.The older Cadillacs.used a blower resistor module located on the passenger side under the hood at the plenum. When these would fry, blower would either quit working, or run without ignition on until the battery was dead. Very common failure rate for this non-serviceable extremely costly component at $400-$500 and they are now nowhere to be found.
The only thing one could do was bypass the resistor and have the choice between no fan and high. Some have.tried thermostats and some even burned up their cars by trying to have blower speeds.
I believe in a 1994 model, blower speed is controlled by the body control module a/k/a vehicles computer. As for the location of the atcual resistor on this model,I am not sure, but I believe it is in the bum itself because I have not heard of any external location for a resistor assembly like the older ones.
I am extremely concerned about the white smoke for 2 minutes, being that a 10 gauge power wire to ground will burst into flames in 6 seconds sending melting flaming plastic on other polymers and setting the car on fire! I am a vehicle fire instructor/investigator as well.
What is smelled with a wiring fire is obviously burned plastic, or a suffer smell with a touch of ozone.
The way fan blower resistors work is there are usually 2-3 separate voltage drops to control the different speeds except for high which is 12 volts going to the blower.

I am wondering as to why you think it is the resistors for the heater blower? Is it just because the blower is not working? What else is not working?
The reason for my concern is for this to smoke that long and not start a fire, your electrical issue is on the wrong side of the fuse. If you had a short, fuse would blow. No smoke. Say the circuit had a problem, you would install the new fuse and it would pop again.

From your description, I would be very careful getting power reconnected to anything until you start checking the wiring harnesses under the dash. I would start by removing the glove box and checking the harness there.you may even have to pull the dash, but you should find evidence of a harness burned up.
Do not play games with this. The problem itself could be minor being the vehicle did not burn up, but I think you will find the problem something other than what you think, with possibly one exception and that would be where the blower motor itself fried.

As for ride control, if your compressor is working properly under the hood, either your air like b especially, shocks or fittings are leaking. If pumped up, a leak can be easily found putting soap water to the components. A leak will show bubbles.

As for your power lock, you need a power lock actuator. It's tired. Gmail had issues, but my Ford Excursion (real common) needs all 4. Key fob or lock button gets locks to want to go up or down, just not enough strength to do so. You can get an actuator at any parts house for about $25-$35. Pull the door trim panel. If bolted, remove and replace. If riveted, drill 1/4 rivets out, get some 1/4 x 1/2 bolts, lock washers and nuts. Install bolts from inside of door to trim. Install lock washer and but and tighten. Instal trim panel.

Let me know what you find on this wiring issue

Good luck!

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Rob Painter

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Alarm system questions cannot be answered on this forum. These systems are not what I can answer. Without being physically at the vehicle and not knowing what kind of electrical service has been done on the vehicle, there is no possible way to give an accurate answer over the internet. My expertise is in Ignition/key based anti-theft systems. These issues include GM VATS (resistor chip in key blade) PASSLOCK (MRD)-ignition lock rotation based, no special ignition key and the PKIII Transponder (computer chip in key) systems. These systems are not alarm based and are integral with the starting of the engine. This is why I cannot diagnose alarm problems without physically looking at the vehicle: Alarm systems are a completely different annimal than ignition key/lock based anti-theft system. Many alarm questions come from vehicles 10 years old, and since older, many hands that had been involved over the years.I am an expert in all GM factory (ignition/key based)systems. Alarm system questions pose to many situations beyond my knowledge as to what has been done to the vehicle over the years. Some guy may have actually wired the stereo into the alarm system. Who knows? Over my past 30 years in vehicle wiring repair, I have seen unbelievable wiring disaters done by guys that consider themselves "mechanics." I have seen stereos and alarms intalled using surgical tape. I have seen modules burn up, un-fused circuits, wiring jambed between the doors and even lamp cord used for a starter kill. To answer alarm questions over the internet without examining the vehicle is like asking; What does it take to remove a dent?

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Education/Credentials-ASE certified. 11 years with a GM dealer and 17 years with a repair facility dealing with only the repair of theft recovered vehicles.

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