Candle & Soap Making/Gardeners Soap
Expert: Terry Knorr - 5/29/2006
QuestionThanks for answering! I checked the tag on my last bar of soap, and it was made by Applachian Mountain Soaps. Ingredients listed were: WV spring water, coconut oil, palm oil, sodium hydroxide, shea butter, crushed rosemary leaves, lavendar petals, corn meal & lavendar essential oils.
I know you can't duplicate their formula, but any compilation similar would be great. Is this a hard task for someone who has never made soap? Are the ingredients easy to purchase?
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Followup To
Question -
I had purchased some handmade gardeners soap in WV, and was wondering if you could tell me how to make it. It was great, and smelled really wonderful. Also, it left my hands feeling soft, and the texture of the soap was coarse. I have never made soap before, but would love to try.
Answer -
Hi Jennifer!
I am unsure how to answer your queston. There is an unwritten rule in soapmaking -- you never try to copy another person's soap. Soapmakers might use the same scents, but will rarely use the exact same ingredients.
There are several soapmakers here in WV who make a gardeners soap, and I am more than a little curious to know whose you purchased. I could not, however, give you a formula to reproduce that exact soap. It simply wouldn't be ethical for me to do so. However, if you could tell me what qualities you liked about the soap, I would be willing to develop a formula which I believe would give you a comparable soap.
Some helpful information would be:
How did it lather?
What was the consistancy of the lather?
What was the scent?
Was it all natural or were animal products used?
Was the soap drying or moisturizing?
What made the soap course?
Any other information you can give.
I hope this is helpful to you.
Terry
AnswerHi Jennifer!
Here is the formula that I believe will give you a comparable soap.
Coconut oil 10 oz
palm oil 35 oz
shea butter 4 oz
castor oil 1 oz
water(distilled) 19 oz
sodium hydroxide 7.25 oz
lavender oil 1/2 oz
you will have to judge on the rosemary, lavender, and cornmeal.
The basic procedure is as follows:
1. measure out ingredients
2. heat fats and oils so they are between 90 and 120 degrees F.
3. mix the Sodium hydroxide with the water (remember to always add the water to the base, never the base to the water) and cool it to approximately the same temperature as your fats and oils.
4. pour the lye solution into the fats and oils and mix until a trace appears (you will recognize this by drizzling a small amount of the mixture back into the pot. If a small trail (mound of soap mixture) remains on top for at least 10 seconds whereever the drizzle landed, then you have a good trace.)
5. pour the soap mixture into a mold and cover with towels or any other material to provide insulation.
6. After 24 hours, check the soap. If it has the consistancey of cheese, it is ready to cut into bars (although this is not necessary, it will cure faster)
7. Place the bars on a screen to cure (this can take 30 days or longer).
some precautions to keep in mind:
sodium hydroxide is very caustic. Wear eye protection. If you get any on your clothing or skin, wash immediately with vinegar and then with soap and water.
Test your soap before using it. Wash your hands. If there is any burning or stinging, put the soap back on the drying rack for another week or so. Test again before using.
Soapmaking is a chemical process and any inaccurate measurments could result in a failed batch of soap and even personal injury. Accurate measurment is essential.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any other questions or need clarification on these instructions, feel free to contact me. An excellent book on the subject is published by Storey Publishing. It is called, The Complete Soapmaker.
Have a Great Day!
Terry