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Canine Behavior/Food Aggression

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Question
Hi, I have a 6 month old GSD, He is very well trained and knows all the basic commands. At 3 months old he displayed a little bit of aggression at meal times, we got him out of this habit by giving him a tasty treat every time we entered the room where he was eating or when passing by. He was fine until a week ago when we were given a bone for him, He went in the garden and as soon as he could see me at the back door he started barking and growling I stayed there and gave a firm "NO" he soon stopped, we have removed the bone and he no longer has this, but it seems we have gone backwards as he's now growling at meal times again! he sits/lays and stays and waits until I say it’s ok for him to eat but if I leave the room and re-enter he growls.
It seems that he is nervous of me being around him when he eats as if I call him he comes but seems to be cowering, I don’t understand why he's like this as we have never physically punished him but I am keen to resolve this issue, What is the best way to action this behavior?
He also has 1 testicle which has not dropped yet and I have arranged for him to be neutered.
Thanks


Answer
A three month old puppy who demonstrates any sort of aggression needs the immediate intervention of a certified applied animal behaviorist; too late, unfortunately, and it is progressing further.  Although you have tried to correct this behavior by offering treats, you may actually have worsened it.  You have to understand, fully (especially with aggression of any sort) what you are REWARDING when offering praise or treats.  The dog has an apparent fear aggression problem around food and trophy objects.  You may have inadvertently been rewarding his fear reaction by not carefully observing his body language, posture, ear set, eye movements, tail set, when tossing treats  when you entered the room during his mealtime. When teaching any dog anything, you have to know FIRST what he is LEARNING, i.e., what he is reacting to, his emotional state, his thought process, etc.  It sounds to me as if his fear was being rewarded, unknown to you.

Furthermore, by not going forward into the yard when he demonstrated this bone guarding behavior, you taught him more about using aggression.  The correct thing would have been to proceed forward, totally ignoring the dog, walk around a bit while still ignoring him, diverting his attention and engaging him in a behavior you could reward.  Don't try that now.  Although at six months it's highly unlikely the dog will actually bite you, the GSD has a VERY HIGH fear aggression problem and you do NOT want to provoke it any further or teach him any more about how to use aggression.

You need to find a certified applied animal behaviorist.  This dog needs an in person evaluation and your training technique, along with the manner in which you live with this dog, need to be evaluated and most likely corrected.  Do NOT use ANY COERCIVE METHODS when training.  Absolutely NO choker collars, corrections, shouting, or intimidation.  Play training and positive reinforcement are the methods of choice but do NOT introduce anything until you have found an expert.  Call the veterinary college in your geographical area and be sure to get referral to a certified behaviorist, NOT a dog trainer (who will make it much worse.)  Until then, DO NOT make this dog "wait" for his food.  For now, put the food down in the room while he is confined in another space where he cannot see you, then allow him into the room and leave him in there ALONE with his food for fifteen minutes.  Do not pick up the dish in his sight; distract him to another location before removing it. The fact that he comes when called, even while eating, but cowers is a clear demonstration that he is fearful.  Everything MUST EAT in order to live.  You are doing something very wrong and I can't diagnose it from here.

This dog needs to be fed twice a day; be certain you are offering a high quality kibble that is not high in protein.  He appears to be generalizing from food to any object he prizes, and this could easily become (as he gets older) things such as your objects (remote control, socks, shoes, etc.) something you want to avoid at all cost.  If he should obtain such an object before you are able to find a specialist, IGNORE HIM until he loses interest.  Do NOT chase him, or in any way interact with him, while he has the object.  He will become more fearful and develop defensive aggression very quickly.

Young puppies that demonstrate food aggression are most likely from a large litter where the dam (mother) may not have been able to provide sufficient nutrition for all pups.  Such puppies require careful handling by the breeder with supplementation if they are not gaining weight adequately.  Also, fear aggression can be learned by a pup observing his dam and can be inherited.  It sounds to me as if the breeder you obtained this dog from needs to be doing something else, NOT breeding dogs and especially NOT GSDs.  Undescended testicles are also inherited.  It's likely your dog may have other inherited problems (such as hip dysplasia).  While he is under anesthesia for neutering, have the veterinarian x-ray his hips.  In future, before obtaining any dog, do your homework regarding the breeder.  Ask questions about how many litters they breed a year; be sure to meet at least the dam; find out who the sire is, where the sire is, and whether you can meet the sire.  Ask for OFA certificates and a five generation pedigree; and get references from other people who have purchased puppies from this person.  

Canine Behavior

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Jill Connor, Ph.D.

Expertise

I have spent my entire professional life rehabilitating the behavior of the domestic dog and I can answer any question regarding any behavior problem in any breed dog. If you are a caring, committed owner and need advice, I'm here for you. THERE ARE NO QUICK FIXES for serious behavioral issues; not only is it unprofessional to offer same, it is also unethical. IF I ASK YOU SUBSEQUENT QUESTIONS, I NEED YOU TO INTERACT WITH ME. More information equals more credible answers and a more successful outcome. If you want ANSWERS THAT WORK, participate in any way I request. I'm quite committed to working on this site for YOUR benefit and the benefit of YOUR DOG. Help me in any way you can.

Experience

30 years of solving serious behavior problems in domestic dogs; expert in dog to human aggression; Internet columnist for ThePetChannel.com for 5 years; former radio talk show host, WHPC.FM, Garden City, NY "Bite Back" (1995 through 2000). List owner, international animal behavior experts, K9Shrinks@egroups.com. Seminar leader: "Operant Conditioning and Learning"; "Aggression in The Domestic Dog"; "Solving Problem Behaviors" -- conducted for various training facilities on Long Island from 1993 through 2000. Former clinical director of "Behavioral Abnormalities" in conjunction with Mark Beckerman, DVM, Hempstead, New York.

Organizations
Member, APDT (UK); Psychologists in Ethical Treatment with Animals

Publications
Harcourt Brace Learning Direct: "The Business of Dog Training" "The Fail Safe Dog: Brain Training, not Pain Training"

Education/Credentials
Ph.D., UC Berkeley

Past/Present Clients
Board of Directors: Northeast Dog Rescue Connection; The Dog Project; Sav-A-Dog Foundation; etc. Pro Bono counselor: Little Shelter Humane Society My practice is presently limited to forensics. I diagnose cause of dog bite, based upon testimony before the Court, for attorneys and insurance companies litigating dog bites, including fatal injuries. I also do pro bono work for bona fide rescue organizations, humane societies, et al, regarding such analysis in an effort to obtain release for dogs being held for death in municipal shelters in the US.

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