Expert: Jill Connor, Ph.D. - 1/30/2012

Question
QUESTION: A little over a year ago we adopted a male rescue border collie about 10 months old and brought him to our home with our two 11 year old pugs, a male and a female.  AT first all seemed fine, but after a few days the border collie began attacking the pugs.  It was bad enough that we called the rescue organization saying we might have to bring the bc back.  But after repeatedly grabbing the bc by the scruff and putting him in a bathroom by himself, the problem seemed to go a way--for about a year.  Now we've had the border collie a little over a year, he's been to basic obedience class, goes hiking with me off leash and is well behaved.  He has been friendly with the pugs, though he has shown some toy possessiveness--- until last week.  All of a sudden he's attacking the male pug and trying to keep the pug away from me.  Anytime the pug even comes into the same room the bc viciously attacks him.  In breaking up the 'fight' I've been bitten and bloodied by the border collie.  The grabbing by the scruff and putting him in the bathroom has him coming out chastened and conciliatory, until the pug is brave enough to come into the room again.   This also happens outside when I'm walking all 3 dogs together--I've had to stop that and walk them separately.  The bc is an otherwise gentle and affectionate and loving dog--people who have not witnessed this behavior can't believe it.  The bc doesn't have the same reaction to the female pug, even when she comes near me.  The aggression is escalating --this has become a daily event for a week.  I've been keeping the border collie either on a leash or in his kennel while he's in the house and this is just not good for anybody.  As I said, it's a rather sudden behavior after a the calm of a year.  I don't know what to do at this point--I can't have the bc terrorizing the pug and biting me when I try to stop the 'fight'.  I don't want to have to find another home for the border collie--he is a wonderful dog, but I just don't know what to do at this point.

ANSWER: STOP scruff shaking and isolating, this is making the situation worse and eroding the dog's trust in you.

It appears the BC and the Pug have a struggle in social hierarchy.  Unknown to you (because most people can't "talk dog") there are subtle signals being given between them.  The remedy for this situation is:
1. to determine exactly WHAT is going on by observing the dogs together (on house tab, leash with handle cut off, so it can be used to separate them rather than your hands getting in the mix)
2. Learn how to interpret and reward (using a clicker) subdominant signals or calming signals between the dogs
3. Never leave these dogs alone together for any reason and keep house tab on the BC at all times indoors

Obviously, I can't see anything from here and this situation is going to worsen.  Your BC has lost bite inhibition: NOT a good thing in that breed.  The male Border Collie is often an aggressor and controlling individual toward other dogs, cats, small children, etc.  

Unfortunately, the only way to solve this problem is to get the IN PERSON evaluation of a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB)  == NOT a dog trainer!  IF the relationship between the two can be remedied (it may not qualify at this point), it will take close observation and sophisticated intervention which will include teaching YOU how to use the clicker, how to observe and what to reward, etc., and multiple visits by the expert.  Without this intervention, you're going to end up with a dead Pug (who is no match for the BC).  Dog to dog aggression is considered an indicator of possible dog to human aggression and cannot be ignored.

You will hopefully be able to find a CAAB within reasonable distance of your home from the following sites:
http://certifiedanimalbehaviorist.com/page6.html
http://www.animalbehavior.org/ABSAppliedBehavior/caab-directory

Meanwhile: as suggested above, put a house tab on the BC.  At ANY sign of trouble, pick up the house tab (casually) and keep the dog at your side for at least ten minutes.  DO NOT get in the middle of a fight, you can be seriously injured and ANY dog bite is a serious problem for a human.

Whether or not this situation is available for rehabilitation is not something I can tell you, unfortunately.  I wish I could be of more help but without in person evaluation this is the best I can offer.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I appreciate your response.  Unfortunately there are no certified animal behaviorists within a reasonable distance of my home mentioned in the links provided.  I will e-mail a couple of those listed to see if they have any online advice they can give me, otherwise I'm still on my own here.
As for stopping the scruff shaking and isolation, I can think of no other way to respond when the pug is in the jaws of the border collie. I have been keeping the bc on a leash when in the house or out when the pugs are around-- not a long term solution--,but sometimes an attack can happen a split second after any sign of trouble. I will continue to reward congenial behavior, but I don't trust that the behavior will stop with just positive reward for getting along.  I need a way to punish the attack behavior if it does occur, a way to teach the bc that attack is unacceptable.  I abhor the idea of physical punishment, but I am considering using an electronic collar with the bc.  The pugs are 12 years old and probably won't be around after a couple of years, but they don't deserve to spend their last years in terror.

As I said, I do appreciate your response and any advice you can give me and I will certainly continue to reward 'good' behavior.

Answer
NO ELECTRIC COLLAR absolutely OUT of the question.  The dog associates the pain with what's immediately in front of it: your PUG.  DO NOT DO IT.

Positive reward using a clicker for subdominance in the dog once recognized as lower in social hierarchy WORKS but I can't determine which dog that IS and I can't teach you how to use it in a text box, far too subtle.  Physical punishment does NOTHING: first, it must be associated with the behavior at the EXACT MOMENT the behavior ORIGINATES, that means you have to be able to read the dog's body language in an instant, something you can't do. Otherwise it generalizes: BC learns when Pug is present, he's in pain: NOT GOOD, don't do it.

Put the BC on NILIF (Nothing In Life Is Free).  Teach him to "sit" using the following instructions:

:::::::::::::::::::: start source, Karen Overall, DVM ::::::::::::::::::::::::

KAREN OVERALL'S BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION PROGRAM
Protocol for Relaxation
This program is the foundation for all other behavior modification programs. Its purpose is to teach the dog to sit and stay while relaxing in a variety of circumstances. The circumstances change from very reassuring ones with you present to potentially more stressful ones when you are absent. The purpose of the program is not to teach the dog to sit; sitting (or lying down, if the dog is more comfortable) is only a tool. The goals of the program are to teach the dog to relax, to defer to you, to enjoy earning a salary for an appropriate, desirable behavior, and to develop, as a foundation, a pattern of behaviors that allow the dog to cooperate with future behavior modification (generally desensitization and counter conditioning). This protocol acts as a foundation for teaching the dog context-specific appropriate behavior. The focus is to teach the dog to rely on you for all the cues as to the appropriateness of its behavior so that it can then learn not to react inappropriately.
About Food Treats
This program uses food treats. Remember, the treats are used as a salary or reward, not as a bribe. If you bribe a problem dog, you are defeated before the start. It is often difficult to work with a problem dog that has learned to manipulate bribes, but there are creative ways - often using the use of head collars - to correct this situation. First, find a food that the dog likes and that it does not usually experience. Suggestions include boiled, slivered chicken or tiny pieces of cheese. Boiled, shredded chicken can be frozen in small portions and defrosted as needed. Individually wrapped slices of cheese can be divided into tiny pieces suitable for behavior modification while still wrapped in plastic, minimizing waste and mess. Consider the following guidelines in choosing a food reward:
1.   Foods that are high in protein may help induce changes in brain chemistry that help the dog relax.
2.   Dogs should not have chocolate.
3.   Some dogs do not do well with treats that contain artificial colors or preservatives
4.   Dogs with food allergies or those taking monoamine oxidase inhibitor drugs may have food restrictions (for instance, cheese for dogs taking deprenyl).
5.   Dog biscuits generally are not sufficient motivation, but some foods are so desirable that the dog is too stimulated by them to relax - something between these two extremes is preferred.
6.   Treats should be tiny (less than half the size of a thumbnail) so that the dog does not get full, fat, or bored.
7.   If the dog stops responding for one kind of treat, try another.
8.   Do not let treats make up the bulk of the dog's diet; the dog needs its normal, well-balanced ration.
The Reward Process
Rewarding dogs with food treats is an art. Learning to do so correctly helps the dog focus on the exercises and keeps everyone safe. To prevent the dog from lunging for the food, keep the already prepared treats in a little cup or plastic bag behind your back and keep one treat in the hand used to reward the dog. That hand can then either be kept behind your back so that the dog does not stare at the food or can be moved to your eye so that you can teach the dog to look happy and make eye contact with you. The food treat must be small so that the focus of the dog's attention is not a slab of food but rather your cues. A treat of the correct size can be closed in the palm of the hand by folding the fingers and will not be apparent when held between the thumb and forefingers. When presenting the dog with the treat, bring the hand, with a lightly closed fist, up quickly to the dog (do not startle the dog), and turn your wrist to open your hand.
When starting the program, let the dog smell and taste the reward so that it knows the anticipated reward for the work. If the dog is too terrified to approach, you can place a small mound of the treat on the floor. Then ask the dog to "sit;" if the dog sits instantly, say "Good girl (boy)!" and instantly open your hand to give the dog the treat while saying "stay."
Getting the Dog's Attention
If the dog does not sit instantly, call its name again. As soon as the dog looks at or attends to you, say, "Sit." If the dog will not look at you and pay attention, do not continue to say, "Sit." If you continue to give a command that you cannot reinforce, the dog learns to ignore that command. If necessary, use a whistle or make an unusual sound with your lips to get the dog's attention. As soon as the dog looks at you, say, "Sit." Use a cheerful voice. Some people may have to soften or lower their voices almost to a whisper to get the dog to pay attention to them. Often this is because they have given all their previous commands to the dog by yelling. The dog has very successfully learned to ignore this.
If the dog is looking at you but hot sitting, approach the dog to close the distance, raise the treat gently to your eyes, and request "sit." Often just moving toward a dog helps the dog sit. Not only have you decreased the distance, you appear taller and to be over the dog; such behaviors are used in canine communication to get the lower (in relative elevation) dog to obey the desires of the higher one. You can use these innate dog behaviors as long as you are careful. Never back up a dog that is growling. Never corner a fearful dog. Never continue to approach a dog that acts more aggressively the closer you come. Remember, the point of the program is to teach the dog to relax and look to you for cues about the appropriateness of its behavior. The dog cannot do this if upset.
If the dog still will not sit, consider using a head collar. By using a long-distance lead you can request that the dog "sit" and gently enforce this from a distance by pulling on the lead. Reward with a treat as soon as the dog sits.
Cautionary Note
If your dog is aggressive or if you are concerned about approaching it, do not do any of these exercises off-lead until the dog is perfect on-lead. Fit the dog with a head collar and work with the dog only on a lead at the outset. The halter allows you to close the dog's mouth if the dog begins to be aggressive. This is an ideal correction because it meets the rule that psychologists have established for ideal "punishment": you have interrupted the dog's inappropriate behavior within the first few seconds of the beginning of the behavior so that the dog can learn from the experience. Be gentle but consistent. Taking your anger or fear out on the dog will only worsen the behavior. As soon as the dog responds to the halter and calmly sits, reward the dog and continue. Never reward a dog that is growling, lunging, barking, shaking, or urinating.

After the dog sits for the first time you are ready to begin the program. Remember the following guidelines:
1.   Use the dog's name to get the dog to orient toward you and to pay attention. If this does not work, use a whistle or a sound to which the dog is not accustomed.
2.   Once the dog is paying attention to you, say "sit" and give the dog 3 to 5 seconds to respond. If the dog does sit, reward it instantly; if not, repeat the "sit" command in the same calm, cheerful voice. You may want to experiment with voices to see the tonal qualities to which your dog best responds.
3.   Do not worry about using the dog's name frequently or about repeating the commands if the dog responds. This is not obedience class, but if you later wish to take the dog to obedience class, the dog will do well if it did well on these programs. Making the adjustment will not be a problem.
4.   Do not chase the dog around the room to try to get it to comply with you. If necessary, choose a small room with minimal distractions and use a leash. A head collar provides even more instantaneous response. Use head halters and other collars kindly.
A sample sequence could look like this:
"Bonnie - sit - (3-second pause) - sit - (3-second pause) - Bonnie, sit - (move closer to the dog and move the treat to your eye) - sit - (Bonnie sits) - good girl! (treat) - stay - good girl - stay (take a step backward while saying "stay" - then stop) - stay Bonnie - good girl - stay (returning while saying "stay" - then stop) - stay Bonnie - good girl! (treat) - okay (the releaser and Bonnie can get up)!" - Bonnie happily gets up and watches calmly for your next signal.)
Note that you talk nonstop to the dog during these programs. This type of talking is not allowed in obedience classes but is desperately needed with inexperienced puppies and problem dogs. These dogs need all the cues that they can get. They need the constant guidance and reassurance of hearing your voice with clear instructions. These instructions and reassurances should occur in the context of shaping or gradually guiding their behavior toward more appropriate behaviors. You will have to learn to read subtle cues that your dog is giving and use these to your advantage. You will find it easier than you believe. The one thing that you absolutely cannot do is to talk a continuous stream to the dog without receiving the context-appropriate responses to your requests. If you rush through everything, you will only stress the dog and teach it to ignore everything you say. This is not good. A corollary of this admonition is that it is necessary to use consistent terminology and brief phrases and to do so in an environment when no one else is carrying on long, loud, distracting conversations.
Avoiding Problems
Do not push or pull on your dog or tug on its collar to get the dog to sit. These types of behaviors can be viewed as challenges by some dogs and may make them potentially dangerous. Use the methods discussed in the Protocol for Deference. If you really believe that the dog needs some physical help in sitting, use a head collar.
Do not wave your hands or the treat around in front of the dog. Part of the point of this program is to make the dog calmer and less confused. Excitable behavior on your part or unclear signals can make your dog more anxious. This does not help.
It is important to be calm. Yur dog will make mistakes. This does not reflect on you. Problem dogs and new puppies require a lot of patience. The people who have had the most success with these protocols have been those who work the hardest and most consistently.
Do not let your dog be a jack-in-the-box. You must control the situation, and you must achieve that control by convincing the dog to defer to you. If the dog gets up to get the treat every time it is offered, the dog controls the situation. When the dog does this, consider whether you were too far away from the dog when you offered the treat. If so, move closer. Ideally, the dog should be able to get the treat just by stretching its neck. The dog should not need to get up. If you have a small dog, this may mean that you need to squat down to offer the reward. Be careful if the dog is aggressive because your face is now close to the dog. If you are close enough for the dog to do the exercise properly and the dog still gets up, close your hand over the treat and say "No." One advantage of holding the treat in this manner is that you can safely deny the dog the treat at the last second if the dog acts inappropriately. The ask the dog to sit again. After the dog sits, say "Stay," wait 3 to 5 seconds, say "stay" again, and then give the treat. The two "stays" with the period between them will reinforce the dog that it cannot get up when it wants to - the dog must be released. By asking the dog to stay twice, you are telling it that whenever it makes a mistake, it must do two things to recover from it. A sample sequence follows:
"Susie - sit - (3 to 5- second pause) - sit - (Susie sits) - good girl! - stay(start to give treat and dog gets up) - no! - (close hand over treat) - sit - (Susie sits) - stay - (3 to 5-second pause) - stay - good girl - stay - good girl! - stay (give treat) - okay!" (Dog is now allowed to get up and does so.)
Do not tell the dog that it is good if it is not. Do not reward shaking, growling, whining, or any other behavior that may be a component of the behavior you are trying to correct. If the dog gets impatient and barks for attention, say "No! Quiet! - stay - good girl - stay - good girl - (treat) - stay…" If a vocal command is not sufficient to quiet the dog, remember that a head collar can be pulled forward to close the mouth and abort the bark before it starts, so that your correction is the most appropriate possible.
Finally, if you accidentally drop a food treat and the dog gets up to get it, do not correct the dog (the dog did not make the mistake and you did not deliberately drop the treat). Just start at the last point.

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: end source ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

NILIF is a protocol intended to REDUCE SOCIAL HIERARCHY.  Since the Pug is elderly and is male, he is most likely presenting in a manner (dog language) that conveys his placement in hierarchy in a way the BC does not perceive (being younger and a controlling breed).  You must put the Pug on NILIF as well, and treat him SECOND behind the BC (this is my best guess due to the age of the Pug).  The psychology and method of NILIF is described here:

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::: start source, Debra Horwitz, DVM ::::::::::::::::::::::::

Changing the Owner-Pet Relationship
Debra Horwitz, DVM, Diplomate ACVB
Veterinary Behavior Consultations
St. Louis, Missouri
When an owner is having problems with their pet, there are both owner driven factors and pet driven factors that are contributory. Some animals with problem behaviors are normal but have learned that certain behaviors are tolerated and beneficial for them. Other animals may be abnormal and respond to owner interaction in a different manner than expected1. In some situations the owner is interacting with the pet in an inappropriate manner that although unintended may prolong, worsen, or facilitate the problem behavior. The pet on the other hand, is often unaware of what the owner considers proper behavior and therefore is choosing behaviors that it feels are the most appropriate responses. What commonly occurs is miscommunication between the owner and their pet. The owner is using a human form of communication, reasoning and language, something most pets do not understand in the same manner as intended by their owners. The pet however, is communicating in the manner most appropriate for its species, and therefore often misunderstood by the human. The first step in behavior therapy is changing the pet-owner relationship and creating clear rules and expectations. This must be done in a manner that is understood by the pet. The goal of changing how owners and their pets communicate is to create an environment where it is easier for the owner to control the pet and thus elicit good behavior. This step is most useful in treating behavior problems in companion dogs.
The Theory
The theory involved in changing the pet owner relationship is that cross species communication often results in misunderstandings and thus problem behaviors. Therefore, clearer communication is needed. Owners frequently misunderstand a dog's expectations in social communication and group living. Communication is a behavior that has a goal and a function. Communication is an action that takes place between a sender and a receiver. 2 For communication to be functional, the receiver must understand the message. The information that is transferred between sender and receiver can have 4 possible outcomes: 1.) benefit the sender and receiver, 2.) benefit the sender and manipulate the receiver, 3.) disadvantage the sender and benefit the receiver (eavesdropping), 4.) disadvantage the sender and the receiver (spite).2 Although owners often feel that the fourth option spite is taking place, most likely what is occurring is a miscommunication between species. Without clear communication problems can arise. The goal is to give the pet clear signals of what is expected so that behavior can begin to change and conform to owner's expectations. By bundling a series of learning and control tasks together, the owner can create an environment for clearer communication.
When owners seek help with their problem dog, the problem may be labeled a "dominance" or leadership problem, which can be a simplification of the issue. Practitioners of applied animal behavior interpret dominance hierarchies, ranking and how they interact in the human-dog relationship many different ways and may use varying criteria to define dominance 3, 4, 5. The concept of dominant and subordinate relationships between animals was developed from observation of animals (wolves, baboons, chickens) living in social groups. 6 Social hierarchies arranged around dominant and subordinate relationships decrease the conflict associated with the allocation of critical resources, i.e. food, shelter, mates and territory7. When living in social groups, canids will establish dominance hierarchies that may dictate access to certain resources such as food, resting places, favored possessions, territory and mates but may or may not involve aggression 8. These social relationships can be extended to the human members of the household9. However, a case could be made that dominance behavior may occur without aggression and instead be about control of the outcome. In domestic canid groupings, overt aggression is rare and deference common8. Owners often inadvertently reinforce a dominant outcome for the dog by deferring to the dog's demands. This sets the dog up as the one in charge, and each interaction that ends with deference to the dog reinforces that assumption. So perhaps the issue is not always one of "dominance" as much as one of control. The animal has learned that certain behaviors result in certain outcomes, which are favorable to the dog. In addition, often a behavior occurs because it can, in other words, the owners do not prevent the dog from engaging in a certain behavior and that in and of itself can be reinforcing. Some dogs that control their environment may do so because it is important to them to be in control. Others may control because they can but yet are anxious about the outcome. Changing the pet-owner relationship focuses on "control" of the dog, which often prohibits the dog from engaging in behaviors that "control" the environment and thus the owner. This alone can have an effect on the expression of problem behaviors.
The Program
None of the elements in this program are new. They have been used before and discussed many places in the applied animal behavior literature. The goal of this program is to place them together and counsel the owner on how and why changing the pet-owner relationship is beneficial to them and their pet. Initially, the owner is educated about canid social structure. Second, the owner is told how dogs communicate and what dominance and subordinance mean to dogs. Third, how animals learn is briefly explained to the owner. Finally, owners are told of how increasing their control over their dog is a positive action that can make their dog more relaxed and compliant in the long term.
The first step is a program that requires the dog to comply with an owner command to obtain anything the dog wants. This has been called numerous things since its inception. ("Nothing in life is free" by Dr. Victoria Voith10 and "No such thing as a free lunch" and "Learn to earn" by William E. Campbell11) In essence, the dog is required to follow an owner command, such as "sit" to obtain anything that the dog wants. This could be access to the outdoors to eliminate, food, petting, a ball the list is endless. The goal is for the dog to "earn" everything they desire by deferring to the owner. Deference is accomplished when the dog follows the command to sit or down. If the dog performs the command prior to being asked, it must do something else. This is critical. Unless the owner gives a command and then the dog complies, the dog is still controlling the situation and deference has not occurred. The goal is for the owner to have control. Although many owners have been told that they should control their dog, usually they are counseled to use physical control methods. While an owner can have control by trying to physically control a dog this can be difficult and potentially dangerous. Instead, in this program the owner uses their ability to physically control the environment and the resources to control the dog. By using benign control of resources and deference for access, the owners place themselves in a "dominant" position. It is not necessary for the owner to physically control the dog, merely to control access to things the dog wants. If the dog will not obey the command, the resource is withheld. In essence the dog is offered a choice-do you want the resource enough to comply or not. For some dogs the answer is yes, for others the answer may be no. Once the dog has learned to comply, if they defer by waiting quietly, the resource may be given.
The second step is control of attention. Many dogs with problem behaviors engage in numerous attention seeking behaviors. These include nudging the owner, pushing, leaning, barking, whining, pacing, scratching the owner, bringing toys and climbing on the owners lap to get attention. The attention can even be "negative" attention such as pushing the dog away or yelling at it; the desired response is an interaction. Some dogs use attention seeking behavior to control the owner, while other may have underlying anxieties which stimulate them to constantly seek information about their environment and social status12. In either case, the owners are told that they must ignore all attention seeking behaviors. If the dog approaches them for attention, they must ignore the dog. If the dog persists, then they must leave the room. Again, their response is to be benign. They are not to allow the dog to engage them in any interaction. However, this is not a prescription for ignoring the dog. They can give the dog attention, but with certain rules.
•  They are only to give attention to the dog on their initiative.
•  The attention should be given when the dog is calm and quiet.
•  The goal is to reward calm, quiet, good behavior with positive owner-pet interaction.
They can call the dog over, request that the dog sit or lie down and then pet the dog. However, it is also critical that they end the interaction and send the dog away. If the problem is aggression, the type and amount of interaction are structured and detailed for the owner. This program of controlling attention has been used in other treatment plans for various behavior problems. 13, 14, 15 These rules also extend to how they are to play with their pet. The owner is instructed to only play with the pet when they initiate the playtime and end the game when they are done. The owner is encouraged to play games such as fetch, or engage in a walk with the dog if they can control the pace of the walk.
Finally, the dog is taught to sit/stay or down/stay on a verbal command. Eventually the dog should be able to sit while the owner leaves the room, returns and releases the dog. Once the dog can do this well, the owner is to introduce a verbal phrase to signal relaxation such as "chill", "relax" or "easy". Again the goal is to teach the dog to take contextual cues from the owner. When given the "chill" command, the dog is to be watching the owner with a calm, relaxed facial expression and body posture. If the owner tells the dog to "chill" the dog learns that this means to focus on my owner and wait for the next command. To facilitate learning this task, food rewards are used. This task is useful as a basis for counterconditioning, which is often used in behavior modification programs for other problem behaviors.7, 16, 17, 18 This program has also been called "Protocol for relaxation: behavior modification tier 1" by Karen Overall. 19
The techniques described have been combined various ways in treatment protocols for separation anxiety, dominance aggression, fear aggression and compulsive behaviors7, 12,13,14.
Potential problems and pitfalls
This plan is not without its problems. Many owners have difficulty ignoring the attention seeking behaviors. What they like about their pet is the persistence and the perceived "need" the pet has for them. These owners are unaware of how their actions are reinforcing behaviors that they do not like or may be contributing to the problem behavior. It is imperative that the concept of control be explained to the owner and how their behavior can change the problem behavior exhibited by their pet. In addition, it is important that the owner not feel as though they are neglecting their pet. Therefore, they must be given guidelines for appropriate interactions. This can include a list of appropriate games, walks, and number of times that they can call the dog and pet it. Each case will be different and have different needs to encourage compliance. If aggression is the major problem then the owners must also be given instructions for safety around their pet and avoidance of further injury.
Another problem area can occur 10-14 days into the program. Many animals will initially respond well to the new rules for interaction. However, once they realize that the rules have changed, some dogs will increase their efforts to get the owner to interact in the old manner. This usually results in the dog engaging in attention seeking behaviors at even a higher level than previously exhibited. This is an extinction burst. If owners are warned about this phenomenon, they are prepared and ready to continue the program and wait out the pet. Many dogs will then return to compliant behavior if the owner persists with the plan.
Results
This is not meant to be a stand alone treatment plan for any and all behavior problems. Neither does it replace the need for complete behavioral histories and diagnosis of behavior problems. Nearly all dog owners are given this plan as an adjunct to a more complete behavior modification program designed to treat their specific problem(s). In each case this plan can act as a framework for beginning to change problem behaviors. Each environment and problem will be different and require modifications to this plan as well as a more in-depth behavioral treatment plan. However, what often is surprising is that many dogs improve greatly as judged by owner reports with only these three steps. What this plan seems to accomplish is to allow owners to change the way they interact with their pet with easy to follow and understand steps. Once owners see that they have the ability to control their pet, and in many cases still have a satisfying relationship, they are often empowered to continue to shape behaviors in more positive directions.
Conclusion
Changing the pet-owner interaction is the first step in behavior therapy. It allows owners to be in control of their pet and its behavior in a benign way. When done correctly it empowers the owner to change their pet's behavior. This will often encourage them to go further and work on specific problems. When explained correctly owners gain a better understanding of canine communication and learning and can use this information in all their interactions with their pet.

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::: end source :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Your BC has lost bite inhibition and is a strong candidate for dog to human aggression.  He must be put on a protocol that eliminates his perception of his own status.  This is tricky since the Pug will NOT be on this protocol and this gives signals to the BC that the Pug IS higher in social status so you must CLOSELY observe the BC's reaction as you take this protocol step by step in the way described below.  This protocol was designed to treat ACTIVE DOG TO HUMAN AGGRESSION but in the case of certain dog to dog aggression problems it can short circuit any development of dog to human aggression as well as help the dog in question to accept the psychological superiority of humans in the household:



BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION PROTOCOL 
_______________________________________

Canine Behavior Consultants
Jill Connor, Ph.D.

This is proprietary copyrighted information.

This Protocol has been carefully designed after years of the study and treatment of aggression in companion dogs.  We do not in any way guaranty its success, although statistically we have had largely satisfactory results.  Modifying this treatment in any way may affect its results, as well as be dangerous to human members in your household.  Although many dogs seem to recover soon after treatment is begun, there have been case histories where treatment was prematurely ended by the owners, resulting in physical injury to humans and the euthanasia of the dog. You, as owner, have the responsibility to follow your counselor’s instructions absolutely.  Failure to do so may result in unsatisfactory results, at best.  At worst, your dog’s aggression could escalate.

You must absolutely avoid any behavior that elicits an aggressive response from your dog.  The purpose of our work is NEVER to create or confront aggression.  It is always to psychologically place the dog in a less anxious and less powerful position, and then to modify  his/her reactions to stimuli that caused aggression in the past.

If there is ever an instance where your dog becomes aggressive, DO NOT CONFRONT THE AGGRESSION.  Use FOLLOWUP option immediately.

This treatment is an ongoing, cumulative process.  Each step of this protocol must be put into place before progressing to the next, unless explicitly removed from your individual treatment plan by the Behaviorist.  If a Veterinarian is involved in this treatment, you must follow exactly his/her instructions regarding medication. The effects of pharmacological agents on your dog in no way holds either the participating Veterinarian or any person from Canine Behavior Consultants responsible or liable in a court of law.  You understand that the treatment of behavioral disorders in dogs by pharmacological agents is at present experimental.


STEP 1:  Avoid manipulative, demanding behavior by the dog.  Ignore the dog totally until it is obvious that s/he has given up.  This might take days.  The dog may present with behaviors that resemble “depression”, this is a normal part of the change in social hierarchy.  Ignore it.

STEP 2: “Nothing in life is free” must be your motto from this point forward.  Your dog must earn all attention, food, exercise, play, etc.

STEP 3:  Change the dog’s sleeping area to one at the fringes of your “den.  The purpose of this protocol is to reduce your dog’s rank using its own measure of  the benefits of rank

STEP 4:  TAB (indoor leash) the dog.  Tab must be worn ONLY when you are present.  Use the TAB to control the dog, NOT THE COLLAR.  Immediately DISCARD choker collars!

STEP 5:  Restrict access to your environment, if necessary according to diagnosis.

STEP 6:  Address feeding issues if your dog has developed aggression around food.

STEP 7:  If it seems as if your dog is blocking your way and preventing you from moving around your home without having to step over him, this is not an accident!  Use the tab to move the dog.  Say, “Move!”, and guide him out of your way with the TAB, NOT his collar.  DO NOT step over or go around the dog.  S/he must defer to you.   Teach the dog to follow you through narrow doorways and up and down stairways  by restraining him with the tab.  The pack leader always goes first -- no exceptions.

STEP 8:  If your dog is possessive aggressive (trophying objects), pick up ALL the dog’s toys and do not play with him at all.  Allow him ONE TOY AT A TIME, which YOU will REMOVE at your discretion.  Do NOT remove the toy while it is in his/her mouth.

STEP 9:  Keep a diary of your dog’s resting places.  When s/he IS NOT in them, you sit there for several minutes every day.  Do not tolerate being pushed at or sat on by the dog while you are in these places.  If the dog approaches you, turn completely away from him  If the dog growls or barks at you, do not get up until the dog has walked away.  If your dog is being confined, sit in the spots s/he has chosen in the room to which s/he has been confined.  

STEP 10:  Prevent the dog from assuming all positions of authority -- front windows; doorways; top or bottom of stairs.  If your dog is hiding under furniture and guarding those spots, block his access to them.
If your dog is excessively guarding your home, it is VERY important that s/he not be able to clearly monitor what is going on outside.  In order to eliminate certain behaviors, they must be interrupted completely while the dog is being reeducated.

STEP 11:  You may need to make your dog earn at least one of its meals every day.  You will be instructed to incorporate this into daily training sessions.  This depends upon feedback offered as this program is put into place.  Use FOLLOWUP feature.

If you have had a complete cessation of aggression and can easily see a pronounced change in your dog’s behavior, now is the time to introduce motivational obedience training.  Information on this training can be found at Dr. Ian Dunbar’s site: DogStarDaily.com

STEP 12:  Make your dog earn the right to leave your den (home) by making him sit/stay at all outside doorways before leaving.  This also gives you the opportunity to unhook his tab before he goes into the back yard.  When he returns, make him sit/stay at the door to reattach the tab.  If going out with the dog, make him sit/stay at the front door while you pass through first, then release him to follow you with an enthusiastic “Go Ahead!”

STEP 13:  Begin to groom your dog for short sessions each day; start slowly, use treats so long as the dog is perfectly CALM and DOCILE.  If the dog objects (growls or pulls away), stop until the dog is calm, begin again for a few seconds, reward, end.  Repeat the next day until the dog will allow a brief grooming for reward WITHOUT objection.

STEP 14:  When your dog demonstrates consistent compliance to obedience commands, and fully allows you to groom him without protest, begin playing games with him.  These games should involve “Find It”, “Track It”, “Fetch It”, and thought provoking games with home-made mazes.  YOU MUST WIN EVERY GAME OF INTERACTIVE PLAY.  If you play “fetch it”, you must keep the toy when the game is over.


STEP 15:  Replace your dog’s interior toys only while he is in his own space, and routinely remove them yourself.  If your dog previously suffered from possessive aggression or competitive aggression, it should have been resolved by this point.  If this step provokes a challenge (we hope not), DO NOT yell at, hit, or confront this in any way.  DO NOT back away.  Turn your back on the dog and STAND YOUR GROUND until the dog displaces (looks around as if to say, “Huh?”).  At that point, turn back to the dog and give him a “command” to “sit” or “drop”,  Reward his obedience.  Report this immediately using FOLLOWUP feature.


REMEMBER, this Protocol takes TIME (possibly weeks, sometimes more). Do NOT RUSH (“Fools rush in where angels fear to tread.”)  Your dog will live in this restricted fashion for AS LONG AS IT TAKES.  The other alternative to rehabilitation is euthanasia.  Stay committed.

When your dog is responding to obedience ten out of ten times, is routinely deferring to your authority, and is NEVER showing an aggressive response, you may begin to GO BACKWARD in this protocol.  Step by step, you will remove every restriction, watching the dog’s reaction CLOSELY.  If, at any point, your dog seems to reassume an aggressive or dominant posture, re-institute the entire protocol for at least one month.  REMEMBER:  Some dogs must remain on a form of aggression-reducing protocol for their entire lives.  Most dogs do not require this extreme treatment.  It is advised to retain Step 2 through the adult life of the dog (until senior years).  Your dog became aggressive in response to his/her promotion by YOU.  If you continue to make him/her earn everything, and you WIN every contest, this will never occur again.

If your dog is displaying “True” dominance aggression (a very rare occurrence), you will have to restrict his movements around the house forever, and may have to use a crate to periodically remind  him of his “demotion” in rank.  The true “Alpha” exists in a very small percentage of aggression problems in companion dogs.  When one is found, that dog is potentially quite dangerous.  Live with him carefully, and never forget his potential to reassert his authority.

Take what you need from the above and do it judiciously.  It is a risk to treat one dog without having the ability to evaluate both dogs (in this case the Pug and BC) but due to the age of the Pug I err on the side of protecting him.

The problem might escalate, and quickly.  I can't determine that from here.  Because you state you can't find a CAAB within a reasonable distance of your home, I'm supplying you with these tools but there is some risk that it will make the situation worse.  The Pug must be protected.  The BC MUST be on house tab, no matter how inconvenient, for quite a while.  Report back using FOLLOWUP feature and remember, because I'm not THERE and I cannot evaluate this situation properly, this is AN EDUCATED GUESS.