Expert: Jill Connor, Ph.D. - 1/22/2012

Question
QUESTION: I am a foster for a non-profit rescue and placement.  About 2 months ago we rescued two Foxhound sisters from a poor, rural shelter.  Ginger, one of the sisters, is my foster.  She was scared of me at first, but now loves me to death, however, she is scared to death of anyone else.  She doesn't shake or growl, or anything like that, she just totally avoids anyone else.  I have a 10 year old Granddaughter that comes over every weekend, Ginger still avoids her after 2 months..........and all the dogs and animals normally LOVE her.  Ginger also has a spine deformity which may make it hard to find her a forever home, but for sure, if I can't get her over her fear of people, she'll be with me forever. At this time, she won't come back into the house if she thinks my Granddaughter is anywhere around!  It's winter here now, and quite cold, yet she just spent nearly the whole day outside......until my Granddaughter went home.  What is the best way for me to get her past her fear of people.  Other dogs are no problem at all.  She loves all of the other dogs and has no fear.  Thank you

ANSWER: This dog appears to be almost totally unsocialized to humans.  The dog's breed contributes to her problem since the Foxhound is highly pack oriented and must find a place in the social hierarchy.  The ability to do this is greatly compromised by her fear, some of which might be inherited (I make this assumption based upon her deformity which is an indication of extremely neglectful breeding practices and care of the dam during pregnancy.)

First, for the dog's safety in this very cold weather and in very hot summer weather, before turning her out put a very long training leash on her.  Make a fun "game" of this: pop a juicy treat into her mouth and sing her a little song.  You'll obviously have to observe her outdoors in case the leash gets caught on something or wraps around a tree, but this will make it possible for you to "capture" her so she can't remain outdoors.  Make it a habit of always popping a juicy treat in her mouth when you get up to her or she to you, indoors and outdoors; keep these tidbits small but of high value.  Go outdoors.  Make no eye contact with the dog; do not head directly toward her, walk at a leisurely CURVE toward the dog.  As you approach her, turn your head away, lick your lips: these are calming signals.  Get to the point where you can stand on the end of the training leash, then squat down and turn your back to her for a few moments.  Give her time to approach you for jackpot (handful of treat).  If she does not approach you, gently coerce her to move forward with you to the house by first walking AWAY from the house, then toward it, back and forth until her fight/flight mechanism overrides and cognition asserts itself and she joins in this "game".  Circle her, praise her, raise the threshold of offering the treat: now "you" (the dog) need to get closer to the door.  The moment she's AT the door praise lavishly in high singsong voice and jackpot when she crosses the threshold.  Wait a few minutes before detaching the training leash.  In this manner, she will slowly desensitize to re-entry to the home by associating it with this fun and rewarding "game".  This will help her also to slowly become less fearful when others are in the house and she's out in the backyard.

Have every visitor totally ignore her.  Supply visitors with treats (lower value like dried liver).  If the dog approaches anyone, have that person casually toss/drop a treat.  They must totally ignore her unless she begins to solicit attention (which may take weeks or months).

Having done a lot of rescue myself and also having worked with several no-kill shelters and rescue organizations of very high quality, I understand well that rescue does not mean "keep the dog" since every dog that is "kept" takes a spot from another that may perish as a result.  BUT I also know that some dogs just are not adoptable.  At the present time, this dog is not adoptable.  She will fail.  Where is her sister and how is she doing?  

Go forward patiently and consistently.  As the dog begins to relax and finds her place in the social hierarchy, she may begin to be less fearful of "strangers" but since I can't see anything from here I can't guaranty she will ever be adoptable.  I've seen horribly abused dogs (one a Lurcher in France who had been used to race in Spain and was hung from a tree: now THAT dog had some serious fear issues and rehabilitated wonderfully in her new home with a great deal of work) succeed over time.  And you just never know when the "perfect" home for such a dog might come along: an experienced dog owner with a VERY quiet household who is willing to work with the dog and develop a loving, trusting relationship.  But she isn't ready now and I can't determine how long it will take, or if ever, she will be ready.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for you input, I will use it.  Ginger, that's the name I gave her, will come in when I call her IF no one else is here.  It's only when I have a visitor that she doesn't.  Her sister, Jesse, is also fine with her foster mom, but is afraid of her husband, who is at work most of the day.  He told me that Jesse will take treats from him when she is in her crate, but is still afraid of him.  I will pass your suggestions to Jesse's foster family.  Thank you again.  I will update with their progress.

Answer
You might also benefit from some reading.  Learning how to read dog body language is important and you can respond in kind: dog will recognize the signals.  Try Turid Rugaas book and DVD on "Calming Signals":
http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTB527

Clicker training is the perfect tool for a fearful dog but the clicker must be introduced while muffled (wrapped in paper towel in pocket) and a real understanding of the manner in which this works is necessary before introducing it to a dog and using it to change behaviors (by rewarding behaviors you want to see).  It must be used slowly, one behavior at a time, with an experienced eye that will tell you what the dog is THINKING and FEELING.  For instance, if the dog has a moment of fearlessness on approach, click/treat; this means you must be able to read her body language and absolutely KNOW she's fearless at that moment.  It's worth the study.  I suggest you read Karen Pryor's book:  "Getting Started: Clicker Training with Dogs" also at Dogwise.  She has an online site as well
http://www.clickertraining.com/node/834
http://www.clickertraining.com/node/833

A video introduction:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IC367wKGi4M&feature=related

Using the clicker on various human beings BEFORE introducing it to the dog will give you a strong base of understanding regarding its power and exactly HOW to use it.  Rewarding the wrong thing can be easy so take your time with this material.  It doesn't need to be used right now, the dog still needs some time to settle down.

Another source of info regarding fearful dogs is Nicole Wilde's "Help for Your Fearful Dog: A Step by Step Guide...."

If you need further help, don't hesitate to post using followup feature.