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Canine Behavior/being the alpha?

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QUESTION: Hi I have a 6 year old corgi/terrior mix female (named Monster) and a 3 year old shiba inu male (named Inu Yasha). Both are spayed and neutered. My corgi does this thing and no one has been able to tell me what she is doing. She goes up to the shiba growling and then the shiba opens his mouth and she put her head literally in the shibas mouth still growling what is going on?

ANSWER: Please answer the following questions:

1.  When did this behavior first begin
2.  Can you identify anything, even minor, that you noticed at that time (new neighbors with dog, visitors, change in household inhabitants, vaccinations, diagnosed illness by vet)
3.  What sort of training have you done with both these dogs
4.  Has the Corgi X ever demonstrated aggression in any way toward any human or other animal
5.  Has the Shiba done so?
6.  Have either dog been thoroughly evaluated for physical problem (including full blood chemistry) in the past few months?
7.  How do these dogs live with one another in general: eating habits, sleeping habits
8.  What sort of "play" behavior do you see between these dogs?
9.  Have these dogs ever actually connected in aggression; if so, when, under what conditions, and was there any physical injury to either dog.

A growl, just like a bark, is a communication and there are other (sometimes subtle) body language signals being given one dog to the other.  Growling can be a "play" behavior, even a solicitation (under certain circumstances.)  Learning to read body language is crucial in this circumstance.  For an on-line free introduction you can see Turid Rugaas' site:
http://www.canis.no/rugaas/index.php

Dogs approach one another in a certain manner, each interaction is dependent upon the relationship (unless the dogs are "strangers" on leash).  A subtle signal (such as lip licking, yawning, body position, the method of approach - head on or at a curve) means something.  This might be a totally benign interaction between the two.  Please use followup feature to answer questions, be as thorough as possible, and copy/paste questions with answers.  Also, if you have a photo of these two dogs together, post it with your answer.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: 1.  When did this behavior first begin? It began 1 day after we got the shiba 2 years ago.
2.  Can you identify anything, even minor, that you noticed at that time (new neighbors with dog, visitors, change in household inhabitants, vaccinations, diagnosed illness by vet)? There are loose dogs in town which are agressive and we brought the shiba into our home.
3.  What sort of training have you done with both these dogs? The shiba went through obedience school and the corgi also went through obedience but at the rescue we got her from they had no previous info on the dog.
4.  Has the Corgi X ever demonstrated aggression in any way toward any human or other animal? She is scared of humans and has bit another dog that went on our property and she did draw blood from the dog(a pit bull).
5.  Has the Shiba done so? No he is well mannered and is friendly to everyone.
6.  Have either dog been thoroughly evaluated for physical problem (including full blood chemistry) in the past few months? Yes we brought in the corgi and the vet said she looked fine but wasn't sure what's going on and the shiba went and he got a clear bill of health.
7.  How do these dogs live with one another in general: eating habits, sleeping habits? They sleep together peacefully, the corgi is food agressive with the shiba but not to humans.
8.  What sort of "play" behavior do you see between these dogs? They play with a kong every now and then but they always rough house on the bed in a playful way.
9.  Have these dogs ever actually connected in aggression; if so, when, under what conditions, and was there any physical injury to either dog? Yes once the corgi bit the shibas neck, belly and paw. Blood though was never drawn.
What is the problem with the corgi mix please help!

Answer
Corgi mixed with terrier is a difficult hybrid because the drive to control (herding) is not truncated (genetically controlled to stop at bite) but rather aggravated by the tenacity of the terrier genetic contribution.  Some domestic dog hybrids are quite difficult because of a conflict in their genetic predispositions.  It appears that your Corgi X has lost (or does not have) bite inhibition (witness: attack on Pit Bull, dog's lucky to be alive frankly) and there MAY be a struggle between these two in social hierarchy. I can't see anything from here so the body language between the two, which would communicate the relationship, isn't available to me.

A growl can be a benign event (although of course one needs to address it quickly, especially if directed toward a human).  Between dogs, it can be a communication.  Some dogs are more vocal than others and use vocalizations to communicate in a way that is confusing to the owner.  The fact that blood was NOT drawn during the confrontation you describe for question 9 can mean:
1.  This was play behavior you misinterpreted as aggression (something the other dog's reaction would tell you in an instant)
2.  Struggle in social hierarchy but exhibiting some bite inhibition; if this were the case, it would be escalating.  There would be much more confrontation (Corgi is already food guarding and should be fed SEPARATELY).

By putting her head into the Shiba's mouth, she is soliciting interaction.  I tend to think this is play behavior but this is what I want you to do for the next two weeks and then report back using followup feature (so I can see original question/answer):

Develop a unique whistle; providing there is no resource guarding (other than over food bowl), pass each dog several times a day (casually, no eye contact, approach on a curve), whistle, drop treat directly in dog's line of vision (tiny piece of cheese or hot dog).  Within two to three days you will have a conditioned response in both dogs to this signal: they will STOP and come closer to you for reward.  If resource guarding is a problem and this will precipitate a struggle between them, do it this way:  approach dog on curve, no eye contact, stand directly in front of him/her until dog sits, the moment dog sits whistle, pop treat in mouth.  Do this with both dogs to acquire conditioned response.  Test the conditioned response by whistling while you are in within a few feet of each dog.  Dog(s) should both approach for treat or approach for "sit"/treat.  Once you have this conditioned response, use it to interrupt the behavior you don't like.  When the Corgi X approaches the Shiba with a growl, WHISTLE.  If they are so focused on their interaction that they ignore this signal, go back to square one and condition it further.  Meanwhile, LEAVE THE ROOM every single time Corgi X does this, no matter how inconvenient it may be.  Your presence might in some way be contributing (something I can't determine since I can't see it), especially if it bothers you and you have communicated anxiety while it is ongoing.  By leaving the room, you remove your contribution AND you also make a statement: social isolation from you, which will eventually (if you are consistent) extinguish this particular interaction between the dogs.

I think your dogs would benefit from Nothing In Life Is Free but not being able to determine their social hierarchy I hesitate to suggest this.  If you are unsuccessful in treatment, you may want to bring in a certified applied animal behaviorist, one of whom can be found from the following sites:
http://certifiedanimalbehaviorist.com/page6.html
http://www.animalbehavior.org/ABSAppliedBehavior/caab-directory

Canine Behavior

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Jill Connor, Ph.D.

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I have spent my entire professional life rehabilitating the behavior of the domestic dog and I can answer any question regarding any behavior problem in any breed dog. If you are a caring, committed owner and need advice, I'm here for you. THERE ARE NO QUICK FIXES for serious behavioral issues; not only is it unprofessional to offer same, it is also unethical. IF I ASK YOU SUBSEQUENT QUESTIONS, I NEED YOU TO INTERACT WITH ME. More information equals more credible answers and a more successful outcome. If you want ANSWERS THAT WORK, participate in any way I request. I'm quite committed to working on this site for YOUR benefit and the benefit of YOUR DOG. Help me in any way you can.

Experience

30 years of solving serious behavior problems in domestic dogs; expert in dog to human aggression; Internet columnist for ThePetChannel.com for 5 years; former radio talk show host, WHPC.FM, Garden City, NY "Bite Back" (1995 through 2000). List owner, international animal behavior experts, K9Shrinks@egroups.com. Seminar leader: "Operant Conditioning and Learning"; "Aggression in The Domestic Dog"; "Solving Problem Behaviors" -- conducted for various training facilities on Long Island from 1993 through 2000. Former clinical director of "Behavioral Abnormalities" in conjunction with Mark Beckerman, DVM, Hempstead, New York.

Organizations
Member, APDT (UK); Psychologists in Ethical Treatment with Animals

Publications
Harcourt Brace Learning Direct: "The Business of Dog Training" "The Fail Safe Dog: Brain Training, not Pain Training"

Education/Credentials
Ph.D., UC Berkeley

Past/Present Clients
Board of Directors: Northeast Dog Rescue Connection; The Dog Project; Sav-A-Dog Foundation; etc. Pro Bono counselor: Little Shelter Humane Society My practice is presently limited to forensics. I diagnose cause of dog bite, based upon testimony before the Court, for attorneys and insurance companies litigating dog bites, including fatal injuries. I also do pro bono work for bona fide rescue organizations, humane societies, et al, regarding such analysis in an effort to obtain release for dogs being held for death in municipal shelters in the US.

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