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Canine Behavior/Dog drooling

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Question
I have a 5 yr old Corgi/Chihuahua neutered male, Charlie. Well socialized, gets along well with other dogs and animals. At one yr of age I adopted a puppy and had no issues with them, they played and got along great. A couple years ago I divorced and I kept this dog and Ex got other dog. I adopted a senior dog and they got along well after dealing with some food aggression initially. I had to put my senior dog down a month ago. Charlie is seen regularly by vet and is healthy. We go on frequent walks around the river and to oet store where he is exposed to other dogs and people. He does well with them. Only issue is fear of things with wheels, especially rollerskates skateboards and bikes, where he does everything he can to get away from them. No fear aggression towards them. That is a quick overview of his past. Tonight I brought home a new puppy, he took one whiff of her and immediately started drooling and foaming from the front of his mouth. I have learned this is due to stress from reading. I have not seen this response from him before....he is interested in the puppy, sniffs and goes into the foaming and get distracted by it. After about five minutes I picked up puppy, while also giving Charlie some petts and reassurance....and placed puppy on floor again. Charlie again shows a wary interest...sniffing but is not relaxed but not aggressive, and the drooling continued...as it did while I was holding pup. I put pup in her crate, and Charlie stopped drooling within 5-10 minutes but stayed glued to my side for about half hour before retiring to the bed for the night. I was not expecting this reaction, I hadn't seen it before...though I have not had puppies in the house before but he has met the occasional puppy in pet stores and on our walks. My question is how do I best introduce the two? Will it ease? Is it better to give Charlie pets and reassurance, or to leave him be? They will not be left unattended. By the way, the puppy is a miniature Dachshund.

Answer
Charlie appears to be exhibiting a symptom of extreme stress.  He is terrified of this puppy (a dog must be heavily socialized to everything, including puppies, for the first two to three years of life) AND (and important exception), the puppy is female (may be running pheromones, don't know her age but it's still possible.)

Do NOT pick up the puppy in Charlie's presence and especially do NOT try to "calm" him or console him or reassure him.  He does not understand why you are giving him this extra attention and it is, in fact, rewarding his fear/anxiety ("good dog, be afraid").

Since he shows no aggression, this is a non-problem SO FAR.  Keep the puppy on very lightweight house tab; do not crate the puppy to assuage Charlie's fears, you're giving both dogs the wrong signal.  Crates should be used sparingly, an "emergency" tool for house training BUT NOT OVERNIGHT.  Make the puppy a safe and comfortable haven in the kitchen with a strong baby gate (available at Walmart, not too expensive).  When the puppy is outside the gate, hold the house tab (thereby demonstrating to Charlie that he is not being replaced in the social hierarchy.

Verbally reward EVERY APPROACH Charlies makes to the puppy so long as it is CLEARLY NOT FEARFUL.  Give him time.  What he "should " do is begin to ignore this puppy (a statement of social hierarchy) and then, ultimately, they will develop a peaceful relationship, although they may never be "best friends".  When Charlie stuck by you after you confined the puppy, he was in fact further expressing his anxiety and fear but with the clear awareness that the puppy was not at large.

Let's give this two weeks.  Do not interfere with any interaction (unless it is clear Charlie intends to hurt this puppy and I VERY MUCH doubt that will happen.)  Keep control of the puppy with the house tab while she is at large in the house.  Allow Charlie to continue to sleep with you (if he does so now) while at the same time giving the puppy the kitchen (and she WILL whine and bark: buy earplugs lol).  In two weeks, repost using followup so I can see original question/answer.  Meanwhile: walk dogs together outdoors, hold leash of each dog in each of your hands, if a problem develops (Charlie refuses to walk), stop, say nothing, do nothing, wait for Charlie to go forward again and praise lavishly (have a calm "party").  I think Charlie will make this adjustment but it's a huge one and it will take time and patience.

Canine Behavior

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Jill Connor, Ph.D.

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I have spent my entire professional life rehabilitating the behavior of the domestic dog and I can answer any question regarding any behavior problem in any breed dog. I have answered more than 5,000 QUESTIONS on this site in the past (almost) eight years. If you are a caring, committed owner and need advice, I'm here for you. I am personally acquainted with my colleagues (Turid Rugaas, Ian Dunbar, etc.) who were members of an elite group in EGroups that I founded: K9Shrinks. THERE ARE NO QUICK FIXES for serious behavioral issues; not only is it unprofessional to offer same, it is also unethical. IF I ASK YOU SUBSEQUENT QUESTIONS, I NEED YOU TO INTERACT WITH ME. More information equals more credible answers and a more successful outcome. If you want ANSWERS THAT WORK, participate in any way I request. I'm quite committed to working on this site for YOUR benefit and the benefit of YOUR DOG. Help me in any way you can.

Experience

30 years of solving serious behavior problems in domestic dogs; expert in dog to human aggression; Internet columnist for ThePetChannel.com for 5 years; former radio talk show host, WHPC.FM, Garden City, NY "Bite Back" (1995 through 2000). List owner, international animal behavior experts, K9Shrinks@egroups.com. Seminar leader: "Operant Conditioning and Learning"; "Aggression in The Domestic Dog"; "Solving Problem Behaviors" -- conducted for various training facilities on Long Island from 1993 through 2000. Former clinical director of "Behavioral Abnormalities" in conjunction with Mark Beckerman, DVM, Hempstead, New York.

Organizations
Member, APDT (UK); Psychologists in Ethical Treatment with Animals

Publications
Harcourt Brace Learning Direct: "The Business of Dog Training" "The Fail Safe Dog: Brain Training, not Pain Training"

Education/Credentials
Ph.D., UC Berkeley

Past/Present Clients
Board of Directors: Northeast Dog Rescue Connection; The Dog Project; Sav-A-Dog Foundation; etc. Pro Bono counselor: Little Shelter Humane Society My practice is presently limited to forensics. I diagnose cause of dog bite, based upon testimony before the Court, for attorneys and insurance companies litigating dog bites, including fatal injuries. I also do pro bono work for bona fide rescue organizations, humane societies, et al, regarding such analysis in an effort to obtain release for dogs being held for death in municipal shelters in the US.

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