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Canine Behavior/Hiding under table & going pee & poop


Paisley Mae
Paisley Mae  

Paisley Mae
Paisley Mae  
Itook 0wnership of a 2 yr. old Dashound female she understands outside & peepee , how she occasionally sneaks under my dinning room table to do her business...  I have crated her as well in 2 different types of crates small plastic crate which she has chewed her way out ! Larger metal crate ... which she also manages to escape from....   she will chew dig he carpet until its pulled up from the floor ....  I just can't seem to get her potty trained just to the out doors . also she will not walk on a le3ash , she will lay down and not move at all...  Help ...  Please I love her dearly,and do not wish to make her an outside pet, she's part of my family , I have an 17 yr.old Dashound they get along fine .(both mini) I'd appreciate any helpful hints you may have . Thanks

You don't mention how long you've had Paisley Mae.  Know this: the mini Doxi is notoriously difficult to house train.  She is NOT house trained. You must start from scratch.  

First: go to Petsmart or other very large pet supply place, take her with you; fit her for panties and purchase thick pads.  She will need to try them on to get the proper fit.  Diapers obviously work better but I've discovered it's almost impossible to keep them on.  I believe sells a particular sort of pantie that has liners much like diapers but, there, you have no opportunity to try them on for size and they are not cheap.

Second: get rid of the crates.

Third:  Put her on house tab (very lightweight leash, cat leash) and in a body harness (when you are home, only; when you are away confine her, wearing her panties, to comfortable place like bathroom with baby gate: Walmart sells them cheaply, spring loaded or mounted in a frame that open like a door).  When you see her going toward the area where she routinely urinates or defecates, pick up the house tab (remember: this is also  A LEASH but not collar restraint).  Sit on the floor, clap your hands lightly, when she comes to you pop a tiny treat into her mouth, drop the house tab, go on as usual except watcher her in your peripheral visions.  At the count of ten after you have dropped the house tab, take her out.  The body harness might just fix the "freeze" response of her not wanting to walk on leash.  If it does not, moving backward away from her (no direct eye contact), clapping your hands lightly (she will acquire a conditioned response to this and know that when she gets to you she will have a high value food reward) might just get her through ANOTHER DOOR (not the one you presently use).  Praise lavishly when she urinates, defecates outdoors.  This small a dog will normally defecate twice daily (usually first two outings of the day) so you can determine when she may need to do that.  However, even if she does have an "accident" (defecation), that will extinguish as her house training skills improve.  She will learn that she cannot successfully urinate indoors (wearing her panties); even should she do so, she will rarely repeat this (unless she has a UTI) as the urine is retained close to the body AND the urine will remain in the PAD, not your floor.

Fourth: FEED HER twice daily ON THE SPOT she has chosen to urinate/defecate (under your table).  Put the food down casually in her sight and leave the room.  Watch her closely.  She should begin to eat after the second or third day, don't go longer than that.  Once she has eaten routinely on that spot, she may attempt to find another but her house training will then be an ongoing thing.

House training an adult dog in a new environment can take, literally, months (2 to 3).  NO DOG SHOULD BE AN OUTSIDE DOG, especially not a small dog in a place where heat can become extreme.  That is NOT a humane choice.  I don't want pee and poop in my home either and I understand your frustration!!  BUT....this dog can be housetrained.  Her fear of the leash was CREATED by someone and I think it has something to do with her lack of house training skills (pure intuition tells me this).  Let's see what happens over the next week.  Please use FOLLOWUP FEATURE TO REPORT BACK.  TY.

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Jill Connor, Ph.D.


I have spent my entire professional life rehabilitating the behavior of the domestic dog and I can answer any question regarding any behavior problem in any breed dog. I have answered more than 5,000 QUESTIONS on this site in the past (almost) eight years. If you are a caring, committed owner and need advice, I'm here for you. I am personally acquainted with my colleagues (Turid Rugaas, Ian Dunbar, etc.) who were members of an elite group in EGroups that I founded: K9Shrinks. THERE ARE NO QUICK FIXES for serious behavioral issues; not only is it unprofessional to offer same, it is also unethical. IF I ASK YOU SUBSEQUENT QUESTIONS, I NEED YOU TO INTERACT WITH ME. More information equals more credible answers and a more successful outcome. If you want ANSWERS THAT WORK, participate in any way I request. I'm quite committed to working on this site for YOUR benefit and the benefit of YOUR DOG. Help me in any way you can.


30 years of solving serious behavior problems in domestic dogs; expert in dog to human aggression; Internet columnist for for 5 years; former radio talk show host, WHPC.FM, Garden City, NY "Bite Back" (1995 through 2000). List owner, international animal behavior experts, Seminar leader: "Operant Conditioning and Learning"; "Aggression in The Domestic Dog"; "Solving Problem Behaviors" -- conducted for various training facilities on Long Island from 1993 through 2000. Former clinical director of "Behavioral Abnormalities" in conjunction with Mark Beckerman, DVM, Hempstead, New York.

Member, APDT (UK); Psychologists in Ethical Treatment with Animals

Harcourt Brace Learning Direct: "The Business of Dog Training" "The Fail Safe Dog: Brain Training, not Pain Training"

Ph.D., UC Berkeley

Past/Present Clients
Board of Directors: Northeast Dog Rescue Connection; The Dog Project; Sav-A-Dog Foundation; etc. Pro Bono counselor: Little Shelter Humane Society My practice is presently limited to forensics. I diagnose cause of dog bite, based upon testimony before the Court, for attorneys and insurance companies litigating dog bites, including fatal injuries. I also do pro bono work for bona fide rescue organizations, humane societies, et al, regarding such analysis in an effort to obtain release for dogs being held for death in municipal shelters in the US.

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