Expert: Alan J Turner, SATS LL1 - 10/21/2006

Question
We have an American Pit Bull Terrier, named Duncan, who is just shy of 10 months old.  We have had him since he was 2 1/2 months.  He has been a great dog overall and loves me, my fiance, my mom, and our neighbors (these are all people that he see's almost every day, or at least a few times a week).  When our friends come over he totaly flips out.  He will get behind me with his tail between his legs or try to get as far from the "new person" as possible.  He is GREAT with other dogs and cats, so when we go for our nightly walk and he sees another person walking their dog, he is usually ok about that.  I've tried to take him to the local pet store a few times and he was so unhappy and scared that we had to leave practically right away.  When he was a little pup he was never like this...he would run up to new people and lick the living daylights out of any and everyone that would let him, then all of a sudden about 4 months ago, this timid/terrified dog emerged.  I don't know of anything that could have caused the sudden change and ANY help you can give would be so greatly appreciated.  I'm desperate to help him not be so afraid for no reason. Big bad pit bull, huh?!  haha
Thanks so much

Answer
Dear Alana,
Thanks for the questions. Sorry to hear of your troubles.

When dogs are 'terrified",  brain chemistry is affected.  Their brain cells can become addicted to the hormones, neuro -peptides and neurotransmitters that are released during fearful events.

There have been many studies performed on fearful dogs and many books published about treatment. People with dogs such as Duncan need much more information and guidance than can be delivered via this or any other forum. There are no tips or quick cures for extremely fearful dogs but there are some things I can advise.

Do not expose Duncan to situations that trigger his fear. Do not coax Duncan to interact by offering him treats.

Don't tell him" It's ok". He only hears those words in that tone when he is frightened. After several pairings of "It's ok" with painful or scary events, (from his point of view) the words predict bad events. The phrase will not help him to relax unless you have repeatedly told him "Its ok"
when he was happy and under no perceived threats. I'm betting he has only heard it when he is stressed. Instead of telling him 'It's ok",  just act like a clown and get him to play the instant you see him focus on a noise. If you "comfort him" with touch, you might be paying him for the voluntary or learned portions of his fearful behaviors. In lieu of touch comfort, try to distract him and get him focused on something else.

Change his diet, feed him at least 2 meals each day. The first four ingredients of the label should not contain
BY-PRODUCTS, or any CORN Products. Choose a senior diet (18 protein)- use it for two weeks and see if you notice that he is more relaxed. Studies have indicated that protein sometimes intereferes with the body's capability to manufacture serotonin. No high protgein treats either!

One good book is The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell. Your success would be enhanced if you contact a local CPDT for help. visit this web site to find a  trainer. http://www.apdt.com

Here is an edited excerpt from my website that gives an overview of treatment.

"'Most dogs that exhibit fearful or aggressive responses perceive threats when there are none. In order to help a dog with this problem, the dog's inaccurate perception of danger associated with actions of other dogs, strangers, children, et cetera must be modified so that the dog no longer perceives the approach, actions or presence of theses triggers as threats. This is accomplished by a very effective process of systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning or behavior modification. If the triggers for aggression or fearful behaviors cannot be determined, the prospects for recovery are poor. If the triggers can be identified (and the program is executed properly), the prognosis is good.

The exercises performed during behavior modification are based on the scientific principles of operant and classical conditioning. First, the people should teach the dog a few "words" that provide the dog constant feedback about the appropriateness of behaviors. In addition, the people should teach the dog a simple skill that can be used to help the dogs focus on a task that is incompatible with aggressive or fearful behaviors. Next, the people should teach the dog to relax in non-stimulating environments.

The book Canine Massage: A Complete Reference Manual
by Jean-Pierre Hourdebaigt is a good book for learning how to use massage to help Duncan relax.

Once the people have taught the dog to relax, the actual treatment for behaviors can begin. The dog is carefully exposed to low levels of the triggers (stimuli) for the unwanted responses during many short cycles and the dog's non-reactive behaviors are reinforced. As the exercise progresses, each cycle is adjusted so that the dog is exposed to a slightly higher level of the stimuli than the previous cycle. The end result is a dog that is no longer aggressive or fearful in the presence of the stimuli, but is calm and relaxed in the presence of the stimuli.

Adjusting the dog's controlled exposures to stimuli is best achieved by a person who has experience reading fine distinctions between canine communicative signals, one who is familiar with operant and classical conditioning, one who can 'set-up' the environment for success and one who can adjust the levels of exposures to stimuli so the dog can succeed."

Happy Training-I wish you and Duncan success!
AT