Expert: Kitty Kavey - 11/18/2008

Question
I am 53 years old and want to pursue a career in modeling for older women.  I need to start with a portfolio/comp card and would like information re. how to obtain professional-looking photos without being taken advantage of.

Answer
You should only need a comp card for commercial print modeling in the US.  Ideally, your comp card would contain a selection of photos from work you have done, and/or different photographers.

As you are beginning your career, that may not be practical or possible.  But you do have a few things you can look into doing.

If you already have a list of agents in your area, you can ask to make an appointment to meet with them or drop by if they have open calls.  Some agencies keep a list of professional photographers in the area, or a bulletin board with advertisements from photographers.  

A few agents will allow you to take a copy of a composite card or two they like, many of which contain the photographer's info/copyright.  That can be an ideal way to find the photographers who do the type of work a particular agency is interested in.

If you have an eye for photography yourself, you can work (for free or at very low cost) with aspiring photographers (check colleges and adult/vocational learning centers for photography courses, some also will let you ask the students or post a notice to a bulletin board.)

You may not always get the best (professional) photographs to use on your comp card that way, but you will most likely get a range and at least some practice in front of the camera.  

Some semi-professional (rarely professional) photographers do test shoots or Time For Prints (you trade your time, they give you prints or digital photos for you to use in your personal promotion.)  That can be another way to get a good photo or two (or at least practice) without paying.

It is more likely that a semi-pro might use a makeup artist/hair stylist, but in a trade situation you may be asked to pay for that, or they may ask you to do your own hair/makeup.

If you're not a wiz with on-camera makeup, and haven't yet discovered your full range of looks, it would probably be better to hire a professional commercial print photographer.  If you can't get to any agencies in your area to find who they recommend, see if you can't find a working model similar to yourself in your area.  They may be able to recommend photographers to you.

It has been my experience that there is a wide range of photography styles and talent in any one area, including prices.  I'll tell you what I've seen that does not work well on a composite card, and perhaps that will help you avoid an expensive mistake.

Things I don't think work well:
--Comp cards that don't show the range of a model.  Sometimes this happens when you hire or use just one photographer for all the shots.  It shouldn't appear that you just changed outfits from image to image, but have relatively the same hairstyle, makeup, expression, etc. throughout each shot.

--Comp cards that don't show enough of the person.  A headshot is fine for acting, but for some reason if there are no photos of your teeth (such as in a smile) your legs/full body shots, or photos that clearly show your whole person, agents sometimes assume that's because you are somehow lacking in that unseen area.

--Comp cards that don't use photos right for the individual.  My first agent recommended the following before I got my composite card done: Put my face shot on the front, and four photos on the back of the comp card that follow this formula - Sexy, Sweet, Sporty, Sophisticated.  Of course one has to interpret what each of those looks/types mean to the individual.  If you were nine years old, putting a sexy photo on your comp card might not be appropriate, although you could substitute a swimsuit shot.  If you were a character model, let's say an older, male, heavyset, again a sexy look (or a swimsuit) might not be right for you.

--Model marketing services.  In the US, there are two main types of agencies; fashion and commercial print/lifestyle.  There are, unfortunately, some model marketing services that tend to give the impression that they are an agency, or operate as an agency (without being licensed or accredited) or charge a lot of money for classes, mailings/promotions, website placement, that sort of thing.

If you are in the US, check with your state's licensing department to see if they regulate talent/model agencies.  If they do, they have a list of all the compliant agencies in your area.  If not, then try one of the modeling agency directories - the Screen Actor's Guild has a great online list of talent/model agencies.  

You can visit www.SAG.org, click on Member Services, then Find an Agent and search the franchised agency list closest to your area.  An agency is usually marked Full Service when they represent (commercial print) models in addition to having a talent division.

Goodness, I think I wrote a book.  Sorry for the length of my response.

I wish you luck, and much future success.
~Kitty