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Carnivorous Plants/Thin S. flava v. cuprea pitchers

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QUESTION: Greetings.  I have two large clusters of S. flava "coppertop", each 12-14 crowns in 14" plastic pots that I've had for over 7 years.  The clusters originated from a 3 crown plant I purchased 7 years ago.  Three years ago, before they were divided into two large pots, the pitchers were robust...24-30" tall, 2+ inches across at the mouth, flowered profusely...in a word, stunning.  In the last two years since I put them into their own large pots, the pitchers have been getting progressively thinner. I repotted them again this year thinking that would help and cut off all flower buds, but I am getting another crop of thin pitchers.  Why?  I live in Seattle and this spring has been somewhat cold and grey as compared to years before.  Any suggestions to help get them back to their original beauty?  Thanks!

ANSWER: Hello Jojo,

There are a few things that come to mind, but with limited information, I am just taking a stab in the dark.

Are the plants getting full sun outside all day long?

If so, then it could be simply bad weather making it difficult for the plant to obtain enough sunlight to produce robust pitchers. Plants typically produce long, thin leaves that twist towards the strongest light source when they are in insufficient light (phototropism). If the overall yearly lighting has not changed, then the plants should be growing basically the same as previous years.

What kind of soil are you using?

You indicated that the problem of less robust pitchers occurred after the plants were repotted. If you inadvertently used fertilized soil, then the plants' growth would be adversely affected. Sarracenias do tend to be slightly more tolerant of fertilizing than most other species of carnivorous plant, however; they will produce fewer carnivorous leaves in general. Since the leaf structure has been markedly different for the past couple years, you might want to take a look at what you are potting them in. Unfertilized sphagnum peat moss and perlite in a 1:1 ratio would be the optimal mix. Eventually, fertilized soil mixes can harm and kill Sarracenias.

Are there any pests noticed on the leaves, particularly young leaves near the base of the plants?

Aphids and scale drain the leaves of sap as they first develop, causing smaller and deformed growth in leaves. If you see any pests, you may need a magnifying lens to detect them, then I suggest using a systematic pest control spray like Ortho products or Neem oil and Pyrethrines as directed by the manufacturers.

If you can think of anything else that might have changed since two years ago that might have affected the plant, send me a followup. It also would not hurt to send this question to other carnivorous plant experts if it has not been resolved so that our combined experience may determine an answer that will help you out.

Christopher

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Christopher--Thanks for the reply.  The plants are on an east-facing patio... 6 hours sun per day.  Soil is standard peat/perlite mix (peat is from a 2cuft bale...not the fertilized stuff found in bags.  No pests or diseases (I treat them seasonally with Orthonex to avoid that), and have been growing CP's for over 15 years, so not a complete novice ; -)   And they're not rootbound, either.  Just found it odd that for the second year in a row I've had thin pitchers, when the plants have been otherwise robust in the past.  Could the cool and cloudy spring be the culprit?  Thanks again!

Answer
Hello Jojo,

It may be, since the weather has been cloudy in your region for extended periods, that the plants are responding to less light. Try placing them farther out where they will receive more light for longer periods if possible. I also have some Sarracenias on a porch with an overhang. They get about 6 hours of intense South Texas sun and do just fine. Were the weather to deteriorate and remain cloudy for weeks on end, they would likely not be as colorful nor as robust. Six hours of direct sun is rather the edge of survival for Sarracenias. More is always better in the case of full sun plants and sunlight.

Christopher

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Christopher Littrell

Expertise

I am capable of answering questions about the most common carnivorous plants found in cultivation. I have no personal experience with Byblis, Drosophyllum, Aldrovanda, and Heliamphora. I have not cultivated gemmae forming pygmy sundews nor tuberous sundews. For information regarding those aforementioned species, I would suggest contacting other experts. I can answer questions regarding most species of Nepenthes, tropical and temperate Drosera, Mexican Pinguicula, Sarracenias, and Dionaea. I have some limited experience with growing Utricularia, Cephalotus, and Darlingtonia.

Experience

I have grown carnivorous plants off and on for about 27 years. I have made the same mistakes and suffered the same mishaps that many growers make as they attempt to separate the myths from the realities of growing these plants. Currently, I am successfully growing a variety of tropical sundews, a Nepenthes, several Venus Flytraps of varying ages, and Sarracenias. I have been successful in stratifying Sarracenia seeds and providing artificial dormancy requirements for my temperate plants when needed.

Education/Credentials
I hold a Master's degree in Educational Psychology. Over my lifetime, I have constantly read books involving the growing conditions of carnivorous plants. I hope to incorporate the educational aspects involved in psychology with teaching other people how to cultivate carnivorous plants.

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