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Carnivorous Plants/nepenthes pitchers are dry

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Question
I live in Florida, about 40 miles south of Tampa. I have a nepenthes fusca, that seems to be in great health, except for one thing. Lately, I have been losing 1 or 2 pitchers a week. They seem to dry out, or at least they are dry when I see the color change start.

The plant is outside in an area that lets it get bright sun, but is under a cover that keeps direct sunlight off. I water it regularly, usually waiting until the top layer of soil starts to feel slightly dry, then slowly pouring water around the egdes of the pot, gradually working toward the middle. Now with the rainy season starting, I put it out in the rain nearly every day.

I haven't noticed the dry pitchers before. Should I check the pitchers regularly, and add a small amount of water if they are dry?

Thanks for the help.

jim

Answer
Hello James,

I do not have enough information to make an extensive diagnosis of the problem. The cover you use could be keeping out too much sunlight, causing the pitchers to die back, there may be a humidity or temperature problem, or there could be some other problem with chemicals or fertilizers used on or near the plant or its soil. There should be no need to put water inside the pitchers as the lid over each pitcher prevents that from occurring naturally. You can do it, but it really is only a stop gap measure. The plant needs something that simply needs to be provided, water in the pitchers is not it.

Is the plant new? Was it in different conditions and moved recently? Have the weather patterns changed recently?

If need be, move the plant indoors with a bright window and additional florescent cool white shop lights of the 40 watt, 3000 lumen tube variety (T-12) over it. The plant needs at least 12000 to 18000 lumens of light at 8 inches from its leaves for about 14-16 hours a day. That way you can control temperature, water and light all together and see what occurs and what may be different from the environment it is presently in if no other changes occurred recently. Make sure the humidity level remains relatively the same if you move the plant indoors or that can also cause it to drop all of its pitchers if the humidity drastically drops.

Christopher  

Carnivorous Plants

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Christopher Littrell

Expertise

I am capable of answering questions about the most common carnivorous plants found in cultivation. I have no personal experience with Byblis, Drosophyllum, Aldrovanda, and Heliamphora. I have not cultivated gemmae forming pygmy sundews nor tuberous sundews. For information regarding those aforementioned species, I would suggest contacting other experts. I can answer questions regarding most species of Nepenthes, tropical and temperate Drosera, Mexican Pinguicula, Sarracenias, and Dionaea. I have some limited experience with growing Utricularia, Cephalotus, and Darlingtonia.

Experience

I have grown carnivorous plants off and on for about 27 years. I have made the same mistakes and suffered the same mishaps that many growers make as they attempt to separate the myths from the realities of growing these plants. Currently, I am successfully growing a variety of tropical sundews, a Nepenthes, several Venus Flytraps of varying ages, and Sarracenias. I have been successful in stratifying Sarracenia seeds and providing artificial dormancy requirements for my temperate plants when needed.

Education/Credentials
I hold a Master's degree in Educational Psychology. Over my lifetime, I have constantly read books involving the growing conditions of carnivorous plants. I hope to incorporate the educational aspects involved in psychology with teaching other people how to cultivate carnivorous plants.

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