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Carnivorous Plants/D Natalensis and D Nidiformis seeds and seedlings


QUESTION: Just mist them with a fine spray of water a couple times a day to keep them moist and they will be fine.
Do I still need to mist them even though I add water to the tray? for D Nidiformis seeds.
I removed the plastic wrap since my other seeds germinated without it.
My D Natalensis seedlings are still too small to feed or move, Do I need to mist those too since I am using a tray on these as well?,I noticed with a magnifying glass that 2 seedlings made 3 leaves and dew on them...will a light mist help them to gain size so I can transplant them in a new pot with new media and clean the dirty pot?? These are the ones with white Algae I know it Algae because it has not developed into what would look like mold and is not bothering my seedlings,These are the ones I put Aquarium gravel on the media surface to try to retard any growth that's not seedlings.By light mist I mean holding the atomizer several inches from the pot then misting.

ANSWER: Hello Dennis,

Misting is more for the sprouting of the seeds. Seeds need water, they absorb the water through the seed coat and expand, allowing them to break the seed coat open and grow. Misting them will provide that water they need without a humidity cover, making your job easier when it comes time to repot them and acclimate them. They will already be used to lower humidity.

You can stop misting them a couple weeks after they sprout. Their roots will allow them to absorb water from the soil.

Many Sundews will grow quickly, but misting them will not have a noticable effect on growth pattern after they have started sprouting.

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QUESTION: Just mist them with a fine spray of water a couple times a day to keep them moist and they will be fine.
I started doing this and this morning had a long white hair like thing where the seeds landed I thin I also noticed white near the edge of the pot !!
germination takes 3 weeks, will daily misting speed up the germination time?
this was in the pot of peat I steamed twice for the D Nidiformis seeds!!
I took another look at my D Natalensis seedlings and now I see 2 with 3 leaves so when I get more peat and steam it I will put 2 in new media and if I can get the other 3 in new soil cause I do not like the looks of the white stuff and want to get them out fast! I will use a toothpick and a small spoon to get them out since 3 leaves on the seedling means it can be moved,besides If I break a root all that means is anther plant lol!!!

Misting the seeds will help them germinate.

For seedlings, you would want to avoid too much disturbance of the roots. Larger plants, at least half grown to adult, tend to clone themselves from broken root sections more easily. It is not 100%, but does occur easily enough in many Sundew species.

Just try to get the plantlets in a plug of soil and repot them.

Is the white material mineral deposits? What kind of water are you using?

Hair like growths sounds like fungus. You may need to use a copper based fungicide.

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Christopher Littrell


I am capable of answering questions about the most common carnivorous plants found in cultivation. I have no personal experience with Byblis, Drosophyllum, Aldrovanda, and Heliamphora. I have not cultivated gemmae forming pygmy sundews nor tuberous sundews. For information regarding those aforementioned species, I would suggest contacting other experts. I can answer questions regarding most species of Nepenthes, tropical and temperate Drosera, Mexican Pinguicula, Sarracenias, and Dionaea. I have some limited experience with growing Utricularia, Cephalotus, and Darlingtonia.


I have grown carnivorous plants off and on for about 27 years. I have made the same mistakes and suffered the same mishaps that many growers make as they attempt to separate the myths from the realities of growing these plants. Currently, I am successfully growing a variety of tropical sundews, a Nepenthes, several Venus Flytraps of varying ages, and Sarracenias. I have been successful in stratifying Sarracenia seeds and providing artificial dormancy requirements for my temperate plants when needed.

I hold a Master's degree in Educational Psychology. Over my lifetime, I have constantly read books involving the growing conditions of carnivorous plants. I hope to incorporate the educational aspects involved in psychology with teaching other people how to cultivate carnivorous plants.

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