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Carnivorous Plants/D Natalensis seeds and D Nidiformis questions



You recently posted a question to Francois Boulianne in category Carnivorous Plants:

You can stop misting them a couple weeks after they sprout. Their roots will allow them to absorb water from the soil.
D Nidiformis seeds have roots at that point? how long are they a couple of weeks after they sprouted and I stop the daily mistings?
I am a little cautious getting them to another pot, I do not like that white and as soon as I steam more peat they are going to their own pots. will the seedling still continue growing and repair the root or will the plant be forced to make another root?
if I happen to damage a root retieving (D Natalensis) seedlings from the media what will happen? My D Natalensis seeds are seedlings making dewy leaves and I think I will be in trouble soon with Algae and want to put them in they're own pot but am afraid I will hit or damage a root trying to dig it up. Any advice when it comes to digging up natalensis seedlings without doing damage that might kill it?
These are still quite small,will putting them in their own pot make them start growing faster?
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Seedlings tend to be early in their growth and have little additional energy to expend on additional regrowth. My experiences in seedlings is that root damage can easily result in losses. Just be careful and gentle, use small instruments, like toothpicks and small spoons, and dig up the plants in plugs of soil about 1/2 to 1 inch in radius around the plants.

They will not really grow faster, but will have space to grow out more as they become larger.

The seedlings will have roots when you see leaves forming. The root begins to form and burst out of the seed first, and make its way down into the soil. Shortly after that, the first leaves (cotyledons) will burst out and begin to grow upwards towards light. The roots are different sizes for each plant, but a good inch or two is always a safe guess as to root length for beginning seedlings ( I have seen some seedlings with longer roots).

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Christopher Littrell


I am capable of answering questions about the most common carnivorous plants found in cultivation. I have no personal experience with Byblis, Drosophyllum, Aldrovanda, and Heliamphora. I have not cultivated gemmae forming pygmy sundews nor tuberous sundews. For information regarding those aforementioned species, I would suggest contacting other experts. I can answer questions regarding most species of Nepenthes, tropical and temperate Drosera, Mexican Pinguicula, Sarracenias, and Dionaea. I have some limited experience with growing Utricularia, Cephalotus, and Darlingtonia.


I have grown carnivorous plants off and on for about 27 years. I have made the same mistakes and suffered the same mishaps that many growers make as they attempt to separate the myths from the realities of growing these plants. Currently, I am successfully growing a variety of tropical sundews, a Nepenthes, several Venus Flytraps of varying ages, and Sarracenias. I have been successful in stratifying Sarracenia seeds and providing artificial dormancy requirements for my temperate plants when needed.

I hold a Master's degree in Educational Psychology. Over my lifetime, I have constantly read books involving the growing conditions of carnivorous plants. I hope to incorporate the educational aspects involved in psychology with teaching other people how to cultivate carnivorous plants.

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