Cat Training and Behavior (Domestic and Feral)/Attack cat
Expert: Dear Tabbi - 10/10/2008
QuestionMy boyfriend and I adopted a cat that was approximately six months old from a shelter. I was going to school to be a vet tech and we used animals from the shelter to learn on and help them become more adoptable. I worked with this cat a lot and he was very loveable and playful. He did not like to be restrain or have his nails cut or blood drawn or other things like that, but he was nice as long as none of that was going on. When it was his time to go back to the shelter about 3 weeks after he was at the school we went and adopted him. In the beginning he was fine would sit with us, want to play alot even though he would play kind of rough, he would also sleep with us. As a couple weeks went by he started attacking me it was like he didn't want me around. He would do bad things like get on the desk knock stuff down, get on the counter, and just get into everything, but when I would leave it would stop. I always have to be on guard walking around or even just sitting on the couch because he will randomly attack out of no where. When he attacks he bites and claws and almost always draws blood this happens almost once a day or more. The weird thing is he does not do it to my boyfriend he has bitten him a few times but I get it everyday. We've tried to give him time outs after he bites me. He has his own room so we put him in there, but he will continue to do this. I won't get rid of him because he needs a good home, but it makes it not enjoyable. Any ideas how to get him to stop doing this?
AnswerJamie,
You most likely have a cat that was a feral kitten or had a feral parent(s). That kind of behavior and distrust of humans is inbred and that is their basic personality. You need to modify your cat's behavior and get him to understand that you don't like the biting and scratching and will not accept him doing it.
If the cat is on your lap or next to you and he bites then say loudly "don't bite!" and dump him on the floor and ignore him for a bit. Then pick him up again and pet him. If he bites again then dump him again and say "don't bite!". He will start associating biting with not getting petted...and dumped on the floor and will eventually quit doing it. If that is not helping, use a rolled up newspaper in the same way. It won't hurt the cat but the noise scares them.
This is one of the few behavior problems for which a second cat might be recommended (after the adjustment period and introduction stage). A second cat of the same age and temperament will sometimes solve the behavior problem by satisfying the pet’s need for active play. It would give him someone to snuggle with, to keep him company, and to comfort him when he is alone. He can also learn to trust from another cat. And it takes the pressure off of you to be company for him.
Previously feral kittens or kittens from feral parents can be lovable, but most DO NOT like to be held or restrained. They also do not like to be petted for very long. You need to watch for the signs he's had enough BEFORE he attacks. The tail is the key. If your cat starts twitching his tail in a jerky fashion it's time to leave him alone...NOW! If he's already attacked your arm (or elsewhere) don't fight him or he may bite hard. Sometimes slapping your other hand hard against a hard surface like the top of a table may startle the cat into breaking off the attack. But if you stay still, he usually will calm down and release you. Tame ferals are also usually one-person cats and can be protective of that person.
Some cats are better indoor/outdoor cats if they have feral history in them. They are happier with the freedom and the chance to hunt. A cat wanting to be outside can be a miserable cat if made to stay indoors all the time.
Note: DO NOT look him in the eyes. That is a threatening gesture. When you pet the cat, pet from behind the head. Do not come at the cat with your hand from the front. Wilder cats see that as a threat and strike or bite first before they realize you are just petting them. Watch him for signs for what he likes and doesn't like as far as being touched...and respect that.
If he was not a feral kitten then he may not have learned that biting people is an unacceptable behavior because he was weaned too early. When a kitten is weaned too early it doesn't get a chance to learn about acceptable behaviors from it's mom and siblings. A mother cat will correct a kitten if it uses sharp claws or bites too hard. When kittens play together, they learn that biting or clawing a sibling results in being grabbed and bitten in return. A kitten that didn't get that learning opportunity doesn't know how to act or react.
He may have been an abused kitten and is defending himself (in his mind) the only way he knows how. It can be difficult to break an abused cat of this behavior, but adult cats CAN learn what is acceptable and not acceptable behavior. It just takes alot of time and patience. Never hit the cat or use any kind of violence when he bites. Be strict and firm, but don't punish. That can make him meaner, and you will lose all trust which can be difficult to regain. Ferals are very sensitive too.
Pain or fear causes his type of behavior also. If your cat is striking out because he's afraid or hurting, the best thing to do is leave him alone and work on the underlying problem. A cat in pain or fear has his ears flat back against his head and his body rolled into a defensive posture low against the ground with claws up and ready. If you suspect that his behavior could be a medical issue then try to get him to a vet for an examination.
Don't ever play with your cat with your hands, or 'roughhouse' with him, use an interactive toy instead. Use a fishing pole type toy, a pet laser light (that shines a little 'red bug' on the floor and walls that cats love to try to catch) that you can get at PetSmart or somewhere similar, a rope to pull, or a stuffed mouse to throw. Those are some examples.
Give him a raw beef rib bone periodically as a treat to chew on. Go to the supermarket and have the butcher cut some beef ribs in half. Though some cats don't care for meat, most cats enjoy them. It satisfies the hunting and 'fresh kill' instinct that is inherited in some cats. Especially if they are indoor cats and can't go outside to satisfy the urge to hunt. Plus the fibers in the meat cleans their teeth.
To help relax your kitty You can try a popular cat calming spray, or plug-in, called Feliway (or Comfort Zone with Feliway). It is available at pet stores, from a vet (they use it too), or on-line. It copies relaxing pheromones that cats produce from rubbing their faces on things.
There is another cat calming product that you can add to his food or water that reduces anxiety called Bach's Rescue Remedy. It is available on-line and in health food stores. Here is a link about it: (copy and paste, or type the whole links into your address bar)
http://www.bachflower.com/Pets.htm
As a last resort you may want to speak to a vet about putting the kitten on 'kitty Prozac' to help calm him. It is a common medication for that purpose.
I hope this information is helpful! It will work out with a LOT of time, patience, and love...and trust on his part.
Tabbi