You are here:

Cat Training and Behavior (Domestic and Feral)/Cat urinating outside of litterbox - recent

Advertisement


Question
My friend wants to get rid of her cat due to her urinating outside her litter box.  She was married last year, so the cat must know the husband by now, but she thinks she is jealous of him.  This is what she told me.  Please help me help her so she doesn't get rid of her!

From the owner:
She's 5 yrs old.  She has been around other cats and dogs (mom's cats and dogs)....... but she is tempramental!  She doesn't like being left alone for any length of time and when she is she starts not using the litter box!  She has never had a problem with this before!  I think she's really jealous of Terry too! But this can't keep happening!  We run  a business from the house and can't have it smelling like cat urine!

Don't know what to do!


Answer
PK,

The most common cause of that behavior is a urinary tract infection or urinary crystals. Both are painful when the cat pees and the cat associates that pain with the litterbox and goes elsewhere. It can be treated with antibiotics. I would suggest having the cat checked by a vet.

Have you tried a 2nd litterbox in another area of the home? Some cats prefer privacy and don't like to use a litterbox that is out in the open. Try a larger litterbox with deeper litter. Sometimes that will help. Or try using children's play sand that you can get at Home Depot, or other building supply store.

Since I cannot put all the possibilities for her behavior in this reply, I am including some links to good articles about improper elimination. They will have information that you should find helpful in dealing with the cat's behavior.
(copy and paste or type the whole links into your address bar)

http://www.catsinternational.org/articles/housesoiling/unabridged_litterbox_1.ht...

http://cats.about.com/cs/behavioralissues/a/outsidebox_two.htm

http://www.geocities.com/heartland/pointe/9352/litterboxhelp.html

http://www.apbc.org.uk/article10.htm

AND,

here is a 'recipe' for cat urine odor removal:

1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
1/4 cup baking soda
1 teaspoon of liquid soap

(3% hydrogen peroxide can be bought at most grocery and drug stores in pint and quart bottles).

Gently mix all ingredients in a non-metal container. Do not mix or shake vigorously!

The mixture is best used when fresh but can be stored. Do not keep mixture in an airtight container.  Have a VERY loose lid as baking soda and hydrogen peroxide when mixed together will release oxygen and an airtight container will explode. You can mix and keep it in large spray bottle (Home Depot, etc.) but a plastic liter or 2-liter soda bottle works just a well.

Always test for color-fastness. Hydrogen peroxide is a bleaching agent in stronger concentrations and can lighten materials that are not color-fast.

CLOTHING, COMFORTERS, AND BEDDING:

Put the items in the washing machine and pour in enough of the recipe to cover thoroughly. This might take a few gallons depending on the size of the load. Soak for at least 24 hours. Rinse and rewash using normal washing detergent. If any of the odor is still present, soak again for 24 hours, rinse and rewash.

A small area on a comforter can be spot treated by saturating the area thoroughly, letting it dry for 24 hours, then washing the comforter normally in the washer with detergent. Always check for color-fastness before using.

MATTRESSES, SOFAS, PILLOWS

For mattresses you must saturate the spot thoroughly to get deep down into the padding and springs to neutralize the urine. If the cat has urinated alot in one spot, the mattress can be soiled all the way to the other side! Let the area dry for 24-48 hours without bedding then reapply if necessary.

For sofas the same directions as above apply but always check for color-fastness in a hidden area before using. Cotton is used in alot of upholstery fabrics and is easily bleached. If your sofa pillow cushion covers can be unzipped and taken off (must be color-fast and washable) you can put them in the washing machine. See How to Remove from Clothing, Comforters and Bedding for instructions.

HOW TO REMOVE CAT URINE ODOR FROM CARPETS

FOR INDIVIDUAL URINE SPOTS ON CARPET:
If fresh, sop up as much cat urine as you can with a paper towel first. Use a spray bottle to saturate the spot completely with the recipe - do not blot. The recipe must penetrate the padding and possibly the floor boards underneath, where the urine has penetrated for it to work.

Wait 24-48 hours until dry then vacuum. If the urine odor is still present - repeat the procedure. It usually takes 2-3 applications to completely neutralize the cat urine odor.

FOR LARGE AREAS OF CARPET:

You can use a carpet cleaning machine - one of your own or a rental and use the recipe instead of the shampoo. You will have to make several gallons of the recipe depending on the size of the carpet. Don't use the vacuum part of the machine - you will want to let the solution soak and dry for 24-48 hours before vacuuming.

Most carpet cleaning machines are not made for this use, and baking soda can clog the nozzles of the machine so use caution. Instead, you can use a 1 gallon garden bug sprayer (Home Depot, etc.). Rinse the nozzle out frequently by filling the tank with hot water and spraying it in the bathtub until the nozzle is clear.

If using the sprayer saturate the entire carpet with the recipe, let dry for about 24-48 hours and vacuum. You will have to probably repeat the procedure again. Where heavily saturated with old urine it may take 3 applications over a week.

Also, if the cat urine is old and dried, the smell will probably be worse a day or two later. This is because you are rehydrating the uric acid crystals in the urine to neutralize them. The smell will get better with each application.

And here is a 2nd 'receipe':
Ingredients:
Baking Soda
White Vinegar
Dishwashing Detergent
3% Hydrogen Peroxide

Directions:

1.  If the cat has recently urinated on the carpet, first absorb as much of the cat urine as possible using paper towels or an old towel. Place clean paper towels over the cat urine area and tread on them so as to absorb as much of the urine as possible. Repeat with dry towels until no more moisture can be absorbed.

If the cat urine has dried and you are not sure where the soiled area is you can use a black light (pictured above) to detect it. In a darkened room the black light will pick up urine and other stains. Hand held black lights can be purchased for between $15 to $25

2.   Next, wet the area with a solution of 50% white vinegar and 50% water. Make sure you use enough of the solution to  penetrate the fibers deep down. Allow it to dry. You can assist drying by blotting with paper towels as described above. A fan can also be used to assist drying. If you own a wet and dry vacuum extractor use that to remove excess moisture.
The acidity of the vinegar will neutralize the ammonia in the cat urine.

3. Apply a liberal amount of baking soda over the affected area and drizzle it with a quarter of a cup of hydrogen peroxide mixed with a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent. Work it in with a scrubbing brush or your fingers (be sure to wear rubber gloves) to dissolve the baking soda and work it down into the carpet. Allow it to dry. Then vacuum.   

The vinegar will neutralize the ammonia and hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer capable of killing bacteria which cause the urine smells. Baking soda is a well known deodorizer which absorbs odors. Sprinkle it on your carpet monthly then vacuum up to keep your carpet smelling fresh all the time.

Important. Never use ammonia or ammonia-based products on the carpet. One of the ingredients of urine is ammonia and your cat may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area if it detects the smell of ammonia. Many household cleaner cleaners contain ammonia so be sure to read the label.

I hope this is helpful.

Tabbi

Cat Training and Behavior (Domestic and Feral)

All Answers


Answers by Expert:


Ask Experts

Volunteer


Dear Tabbi

Expertise

My expertise is in helping people understand their cat (or cats) and their behavior. Questions are welcome even if you don't have a cat....just a question about them. Hopefully my experience, suggestions, and comments will be of help to you...and your cat (or cats). Looking through my past responses to questions will give you additional information and/or answers too. Domestic Cats = cats (no matter what breed) who are tame or not wild, or abandoned cats who were pets that became wild, but can be tamed again. Ferals = cats who are born with one or more parents who were wild stray cats. They usually have had no interactions with people. They have an inbred distrust of humans and are difficult to socialize. They are skittish, hide, and are afraid of people. They take a lot of time and patience to work with them. A lot of kittens from shelters had a feral parent.

Experience

Since I was a child, over 45 years, I have been owned by a LOT of cats and kittens of almost every temperament, behavior, and personality. I have had experience with neurotic, disabled (including blind), stray, and 'problem child' cats and kittens. (A few normal cats too!) Plus all the things a lifetime of owning cats and research has taught me. I also have experience in feral cat behavior (which is different from domestic cats), and some experience with feral colonies that includes colony feeding and feral cat TNR (trap/neuter/release).

Education/Credentials
***********

Awards and Honors
* One of the top 50 Experts Of 2008 *

©2012 About.com, a part of The New York Times Company. All rights reserved.