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Cat Training and Behavior (Domestic and Feral)/1yr old and 3 yr old
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Tabbi, previously I had adopted a female kitten that didnt eat, well I just wanted to let you know I ended up taking her back to the breeder cuz we figured she was homesick and def too thin. Shes getting better back at home but wont be coming here with me again.
Im writing for a new ? though. I cureently have a 3 yr old siamese fixed male. Never had a problem with him not accepting a new kitten in time(He pratically adored the siamese kitten and I think is lonely now that she went back home)... I should be getting a 1 yr old female turkish angora cat. She is not fixed and already went into heat once. WIll she go into heat again and possibly when? how long of a time do u think the 2 of them might take to get along? I need to get her down to get rabie shots before the 2 can mee in person and be together in the same room. Guess this time round I wont be able to just throw them in a room together and refree this time.
Jena,
)
I'm glad you worked it out with the other kitten. She is probably happier now.
Yes the Turkish Angora will go into heat again, and continue doing so until she is bred. If you are not going to be a breeder, I would get her spayed. After a cat goes into heat over 3 times without being bred, she can develop a uterine infection/problem. Plus, even though the male is neutered he quite possibly will react to the female being in heat and try to grab her neck and/or mount her.
Here is an article that explain cat heat;
"Cats are designed to give birth only during warm months (spring through early fall).
The female cat begins cycling when she has reached 80% of her adult size. This could be as young as 5 months of age.
Indoor cats are sheltered from the light cycles of the sun and may not cycle as frequently as their outdoor counterparts
Proestrus: This is the time in the cycle when the female begins attracting males but is not yet receptive to their advances. Estrogen is building up and she is preparing for ovulation. The female is extra affectionate at this time, rubbing her head and sticking her rump in the air. She may also urine mark in the house and vocalize loudly and frequently. This period may be as short as 12 hours and as long as two days.
Estrus: The female cat’s behavior continues: rubbing, crying, etc. but the difference here is that the male is accepted when he approaches. This behavior persists approximately 7 days (on the average) and during that time the female’s behavior is often objectionable to the owner. Contrary to previous belief, the act of mating does not shorten the estrus period, although it does substantially lengthen the time before the next estrus period. The female cat is ready to ovulate at this time but will not do so unless a male cat breeds her
Interestrous Period: This is the period between times of behavioral estrus. If the cat is not bred or is bred and fails to ovulate, this time period lasts 8 to 10 days on the average. This means that the yowling, rubbing, urine marking, and other estrous behaviors continue for about a week, then discontinue for about a week, then begin again, back and forth all spring and summer and into the fall until the cat is either bred, spayed, or perceives the coming of winter.
Diestrus: If the female is bred and ovulates, she goes into this different reproductive stage. Her ovaries prepare for possible pregnancy and she will stay out of heat for at least 35 to 37 days even if she is not pregnant. If she is pregnant, she will carry her kittens for 64 to 66 days before delivering the litter. If for some reason spaying is desired but must be delayed, and yet the estrous behavior is driving the owner crazy, she may be fooled into thinking she has been bred through manipulation with a rectal thermometer. If you are interested in this procedure, contact your veterinarian as it is not as simple as it may sound but is often effective in providing peace at home."
You've got to go through an introduction period slowly. It can take 2 weeks, a month, or more for them to start getting along. You can not just put them together and expect them to get along. That very rarely ever happens.
I am attaching a couple of links on how to go about the introduction process: (copy and paste, or type the whole links into your address bar)
http://www.messybeast.com/first-impressions.htm
http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=cattocatintro...
I use a big dog crate for a new cat. I got mine at Petco and I am attaching a picture of it. It has room for litterbox, food and water, small cat carrier without the door for a bed and to get up on, and they still have room. That way they can get used to another cat around, and the other cat can sniff and check them out safely. You can gradually let the cat out for short periods of time as they start getting used to each other. You can switch and let the new cat out to investigate the home safely while the resident cat is in the crate getting used to the new cat's smells.
Once they can be together without fighting feed both cats yummy cat treats (like tuna or pieces of raw steak) TOGETHER. That is so the cats will associate each other with something pleasant.
Also getting a pet laser light (at PetSmart, etc.) is great for interaction between the two cats. They both can chase the 'little red bug' on the floor, ceilings, and walls, and they tend to forget about the other cat as they focus on the 'bug' which helps them get used to each other.
It just takes time and lots of patience. It will work out if you take it slow and don't force them together until they are ready.
I hope this answers your questions.
Tabbi
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Answers by Expert:
Dear Tabbi
Expertise
My expertise is in helping people understand their cat (or cats) and their behavior. Questions are welcome even if you don't have a cat....just a question about them. Hopefully my experience, suggestions, and comments will be of help to you...and your cat (or cats). Looking through my past responses to questions will give you additional information and/or answers too. Domestic Cats = cats (no matter what breed) who are tame or not wild, or abandoned cats who were pets that became wild, but can be tamed again. Ferals = cats who are born with one or more parents who were wild stray cats. They usually have had no interactions with people. They have an inbred distrust of humans and are difficult to socialize. They are skittish, hide, and are afraid of people. They take a lot of time and patience to work with them. A lot of kittens from shelters had a feral parent.
Experience
Since I was a child, over 45 years, I have been owned by a LOT of cats and kittens of almost every temperament, behavior, and personality. I have had experience with neurotic, disabled (including blind), stray, and 'problem child' cats and kittens. (A few normal cats too!) Plus all the things a lifetime of owning cats and research has taught me. I also have experience in feral cat behavior (which is different from domestic cats), and some experience with feral colonies that includes colony feeding and feral cat TNR (trap/neuter/release).
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* One of the top 50 Experts Of 2008 *
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