Expert: Dear Tabbi - 8/14/2009

Question
QUESTION: Hi there

I have 2 female cats (sisters), they are about a year old now. They have both been spayed when they were about 6 months old. They are free to go outside when they want (always an open window for them). I have never noticed them urinating in the house (never found wet spots etc.). I'm aware that both of them tend to play with their water in their water bowl and normally when I hear them I go and look because I find it funny seeing them play in the water. I've seen one of them stand with all fours on the edge of her water bowl before, but never has she gone as far as urinating in it when I was watching (she just balanced herself). Recently (about a week ago) I noticed this cat standing on the water bowl with all 4's and suddenly she bends down and urinates in the bowl. Why is she doing this. To me it is very strange as 1 - she is female, 2 - she was spayed at 6 months, 3 - they don't have a litter box in the house, they go outside to do their business. It might just be my over active imagination, but since I saw that I've been smelling cat urine in the living room. I've never seen wet spots but I smell the urine. Please give me your expert opinion on this.

ANSWER: Nicolene,

There is not one specific reason for the cat's water bowl behavior, there are a number of possibilities.

It sounds as if one, or both, may have a urinary tract infection or urinary crytals. They are common and treatable with antibiotic from the vet. Both are very painful and the cat will associate that pain with where they normally urinate and urinate elsewhere. If urinary crystals are left untreated they can cause a very painful blockage.

There is also the possiblity that something, possibly another animal, scared the cat when it was going to the bathroom outside so now the cat is afraid to urinate outside.

Have their been any changes in the home that could be stressing and upsetting the cat? Urinating in the water bowl may be the only way she knows to let you know that something is wrong in her world. If that is the case, you will have to play detective to figure out the reason. Do not ever use soap  to clean the cat's food or water dishes. It leaves a film (which you can't see) and the cats do not like it.

Is your cat a Bengal, or have any Asian Leopard Cat history in her? These type cat's ancestors liked and lived near water and the subservient wildcat urinated in the water to cover the odor (the dominant cat does not cover his urine or feces because it is a sign of superiority). your cat could be a throwback to that.

You really should have a litter box inside also for the cats as an alternative. It is safer for them, and for your floors. I would also put the cat's water dish on something to lift it off the floor. Petco and PetSmart have wrought iron water dish holders for that purpose. It would make it more difficult for the cat to urinate in it. Or you may want to get a fountain type waterer or different type of water container. And always make sure the cat's water is fresh.

And, there is always the possibility that it may just be a quirk of your cat's personality, and only she knows why she does it!

You may want to make sure it is not a medical issue before dealing with it as a behavioral problem.

Tabbi



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you so much for you response, I will make sure that it is not a medical condition, but I do think that I know the reason for her strange behaviour. This incident happened about 2 weeks ago now. My fiancé found got a job overseas, so yes, things have been changing at home as we are getting his things ready to leave soon as well as packing as we're moving before he goes away and about a week ago I noticed that she looked a bit stressed. Hopefully by next week this will all be over, although her behaviour and stress might take a little longer to pass as she needs to first get used to the new place and all. I rescued my cats from a drain when they were little, but they do look like Bengal (or a Bengal cross), which means that could also be part of the reason. The specific cat peeing in the bowl is the less dominant one of the two.

My next question now is: As I've mentioned we are moving soon. I'm aware that the person currently living in the house we are moving into has a small dog, who stays in the house i.e. at night she leaves news paper out for him to do his business on. I'm now worried that my cats might start peeing in the house due to the smell of this dog. Can you suggest anything that I can use to clean / disinfect the house with before I take my babies there? I would do anything to ease the stress etc that they will endure with this move. My cats and I are very attached and I don't like seeing them "upset".

ANSWER: Nicolene,

Yes, the stress of knowing 'something' is going on can upset a sensitive very much, so that is more than likely the reason for the cat's behavior.

Here is a suggestion for cleaning:
here is a 'recipe' for urine odor removal:

1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
1/4 cup baking soda
1 teaspoon of liquid soap

(3% hydrogen peroxide can be bought at most grocery and drug stores in pint and quart bottles).

Gently mix all ingredients in a non-metal container. Do not mix or shake vigorously!

The mixture is best used when fresh but can be stored. Do not keep mixture in an airtight container.  Have a VERY loose lid as baking soda and hydrogen peroxide when mixed together will release oxygen and an airtight container will explode. You can mix and keep it in large spray bottle (Home Depot, etc.) but a plastic liter or 2-liter soda bottle works just a well.

Always test for color-fastness. Hydrogen peroxide is a bleaching agent in stronger concentrations and can lighten materials that are not color-fast.

FOR LARGE AREAS OF CARPET:

You can use a carpet cleaning machine - one of your own or a rental and use the recipe instead of the shampoo. You will have to make several gallons of the recipe depending on the size of the carpet. Don't use the vacuum part of the machine - you will want to let the solution soak and dry for 24-48 hours before vacuuming.

Most carpet cleaning machines are not made for this use, and baking soda can clog the nozzles of the machine so use caution. Instead, you can use a 1 gallon garden bug sprayer (Home Depot, etc.). Rinse the nozzle out frequently by filling the tank with hot water and spraying it in the bathtub until the nozzle is clear.

REMOVING URINE ODOR FROM CONCRETE/CEMENT

Spray or mop the area soiled with the urine. Saturate it completely and let the area dry for 2-3 days. Concrete and cement are very porous and take a long time to dry. You must let the concrete or cement dry completely before you reapply the recipe. This usually has to done at least 3 or more times before the urine odor is gone.

If using the sprayer saturate the entire carpet with the recipe, let dry for about 24-48 hours and vacuum. You will have to probably repeat the procedure again. Where heavily saturated with old urine it may take 3 applications over a week.

Also, if the urine is old and dried, the smell will probably be worse a day or two later. This is because you are rehydrating the uric acid crystals in the urine to neutralize them. The smell will get better with each application.

         *********************
Here is a another version that uses vinegar that is used for cat or dog:

Ingredients
Baking Soda
White Vinegar
Dishwashing Detergent
3 % Hydrogen Peroxide (Use ONLY 3% Hydrogen Peroxide)

Directions:
1.  If the cat has recently urinated on the carpet, first absorb as much of the cat urine as possible using paper towels or an old towel. Place clean paper towels over the cat urine area and tread on them so as to absorb as much of the urine as possible. Repeat with dry towels until no more moisture can be absorbed.

If the cat urine has dried and you are not sure where the soiled area is you can use a black light (pictured above) to detect it. In a darkened room the black light will pick up urine and other stains. Hand held black lights can be purchased for between $15 to $25 or at Pet Shops you can get a "Stink Finder".

2. Next, wet the area with a solution of 50% white vinegar and 50% water. Make sure you use enough of the solution to  penetrate the fibers deep down. Allow it to dry. You can assist drying by blotting with paper towels as described above. A fan can also be used to assist drying. If you own a wet and dry vacuum extractor use that to remove excess moisture.
The acidity of the vinegar will neutralize the ammonia in the cat urine.

3. Apply a liberal amount of baking soda over the affected area and drizzle it with a quarter of a cup of hydrogen peroxide mixed with a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent. Work it in with a scrubbing brush or your fingers (be sure to wear rubber gloves) to dissolve the baking soda and work it down into the carpet. Allow it to dry. Then vacuum.   

The vinegar will neutralize the ammonia and hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer capable of killing bacteria which cause the urine smells. Baking soda is a well known deodorizer which absorbs odors. Sprinkle it on your carpet monthly then vacuum up to keep your carpet smelling fresh all the time.

Important: Never use ammonia or ammonia-based products on the carpet. One of the ingredients of urine is ammonia and your cats may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area if it detects the smell of ammonia. Many household cleaner cleaners contain ammonia so be sure to read the label.

You may have to repeat the above process a few times for heavily soiled areas.

         **********************


Because I am limited in space, send a NEW question and I will give you a a suggestion on a very good stress reliever that will help with the move, and tips on moving with your cat.

I hope this helps.

Tabbi



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Wow, thanks again for all the advice. This is brilliant. I would love for you to please give me suggestions on a stress reliever for my kitties to help with the move.

Thanks

Answer
Nicolene,

Glad to be of help.

Have you tried Bach's Rescue Remedy? People swear by it for stressful and/or aggressive behavior, and other emotional and physical behaviors. You can get it at a health food store (people use it too) or on-line. I will give you some detailed information about it:

Bach Flower Essences for Pets: Bach's Flower Essences were developed for humans, but they work on animals as well. Flower essences work on both physical and emotional issues to help heal and calm. They are non-toxic and have NO side effects, and are safe for pets and animals of all sizes.  Bach Flower Essences will not change the inherent temperament of a particular breed or animal, but will help bring them into balance.

BACH'S RESCUE REMEDY is the most commonly used.

Rescue Remedy is not a Flower Essence in itself but a combination of five of the original Remedies. Once these five remedies are combined the Rescue Remedy becomes an essence unto itself. Rescue Remedy can be used on wild  or tame animals for any acute trauma, fear, or stress situations. It also helps increase the survival rate for trapped, rescued, or injured animals, birds, etc. The five combined remedies are:

Star of Bethlehem for trauma and numbness.
Clematis for being grounded and to prevent passing out.
Rock Rose for panic.
Impatiens for tension and irritability.
and
And Cherry Plum to prevent losing control.

Basically four drops of the stock bottle are added to a one ounce glass dropper bottle of spring water and shaken up. It is best to make this up immediately before use as the mixture will not keep too long. Three or four drops of the mixture can be given into the mouth or onto the gums every five minutes until a response is seen. Rescue Remedy can also be given in the water during any time of stress and in this case it is best to use ten drops every time the water is changed.

A few drops of the combined essence on the gums or even in the ear of the very stressed, aggressive animal will calm them down and make them easier to handle. It can also be sprayed on the skin or ears with a spray bottle and it will still have a beneficial effect. A dropper of the combination can be put in the daily water for and make them more manageable. You may use up to 6 combined essences, with RESCUE REMEDY counting as ONE ESSENCE. Try to use the fewest essences possible though.

ADMINISTERING BACH FLOWERS

The remedy can be given by mouth, which is the most effective method. For cats, only a few drops (2-4) are necessary. They need not be swallowed, but MUST contact the mucous membranes (gums, tongue, lips). You can also add a dropper full to the water dish, or a few drops on wet food (there is no effect of dilution). You can add a dropper full to a spray bottle filled with spring water, and use it to spray a room, carrier, car, around litter boxes or plants, or other problem areas. You can also put a few drops in your hand and pat the animal on the head and around the ears with it--the head is very sensitive to energy and will absorb the flower essences in this way. In the case of chewing or excessive licking or hot spots, you might want to try applying the remedy directly to the problem spot (IF it isn't too raw, otherwise the remedy will sting); the animal will then consume it when it next licks that area.

There is no improper or wrong method of applying the Bach Remedies. It is not necessary to be precise in counting the number of drops in any of the dilution methods. The suggestions here are just to offer a reasonable parameter of accepted dilution methods. You CANNOT OVERDOSE the Remedies....they are non-toxic.

DOSAGE AND TIMING

For serious or acute conditions the remedy can be given as often as needed, even every few minutes. For most behavioral problems 3 to 4 times a day for 2 to 4 weeks is sufficient, though some may animals may need drops or a dropper full added to their drinking water long-term.


MULTIPLE ANIMALS

Since the Flower Essence remedies are non-toxic, they have no side effects. It is safe if another pet in your household should receive the flower essence via drinking water. With flower essences, if the animal needs the remedy, the remedy will work and vice versa.

IN ADDITION, HERE ARE DESCRIPTIONS/USES FOR OTHER FLOWER ESSENCES THAT YOU CAN USE ALONE OR COMBINE WITH THE RESCUE REMEDY:

AGRIMONY ~ denial, "stuffing" emotions, inappropriate communication, allergies, physical irritants.

ASPEN ~ vague fears, sense of impending doom, fearful (to be left alone)

BEECH ~ intolerance, allergies

BLEEDING HEART - grief - when pups/kittens leave the mom for new homes for stress and emotional pain.

CELERY - restores balance to the immune system when it is stressed or overworked, and during long-term viral or bacterial infections

CENTAURY ~ meek, "doormat", picked on by other animals

CERATO ~ inattentive, easily distracted. It keeps animals "on track" and is best administered before and during a training session and during competitive events.

CHAMOMILE ~ calming the emotions, soothing irritable and fractious animals, teething and animal who tend to be restless and cranky.

CHERRY PLUM ~ loss of control

CHESTNUT BUD ~ to learn a lesson the first time or break habits

CHICORY ~ possessive, clingy, manipulative, separation anxiety

CLEMATIS ~ consciousness, focus; post-op

CRAB APPLE ~ cleansing; infections, toxins, cuts

ELM ~ easily overwhelmed or frazzled

GARLIC - this helps to repel fleas, and does not have any of the other effects of garlic, including the odor

GENTIAN ~ to see "light at the end of the tunnel", restore hope; long illness rehabilitation

GORSE ~ hopelessness, giving up; cancer, critical injury or surgery

HEATHER ~ needy child, very clingy, talkative

HOLLY ~ anger, jealousy, need for love; abandoned, abused

HORNBEAM ~ mental weariness

HONEYSUCKLE ~ grief, homesickness, depleted energy rescue/shelter animals (forget past, face future)

IMPATIENS ~ impatience, irritability, nervous energy; pain

LARCH ~ lack of self-confidence

MIMULUS ~ timidity, specific fears; illness that does not respond to treatment ,fearful (people other animals) fear of travel in car

MUSTARD ~ depression, gloom, mood swings

OAK~ chronic exhaustion, overworked but keeps struggling; loss of control

OLIVE ~ physical exhaustion from long strain

PINE ~ perfectionist, guilt, feeling rejected: abuse, fearful (animals cringe)

PINK YARROW ~ Helps protect animals from negative emotional energy, such as during a divorce, or stressful family situation, or when another animal or person is sick or draining their energy reserves.

RED CHESTNUT ~ worries about others

ROCK ROSE ~ terror, panic

ROCK WATER ~ inflexible, stiff; arthritis

SCLERANTHUS ~ imbalance; neurologic problems, travel sickness

STAR OF BETHLEHEM ~ mental, physical or emotional trauma; need for comfort; any stray or animal from shelter , shock

SWEET CHESTNUT ~ at wits' end, despairing, rescue animals who have been subject to severe abuse

TOMATO ~ also helps the body in throwing off infection or disease.

VERVAIN ~ fanatic, hyperactive, over-enthusiastic

VINE ~ control, domination

WALNUT ~ transition, protection, over-sensitive to environment , before introducing new animals

WATER VIOLET ~ grief, loner, reclusive, arrogant; to bring joy; for most Cats

WHITE CHESTNUT ~ repetitive thoughts

WILD OAT ~ bored, feeling un-useful

WILD ROSE ~ apathy, passive resignation; to "be here now"

WILLOW ~ resentment

Flower Essences are intended to help deal with behavior and emotional imbalances and it may take some trial and error to find the correct remedy for your animal and the situation.

More information about Bach's can be found on these websites:
(copy and paste, or type, the whole link into your address bar)

http://www.bachflower.com/Pets.htm

http://www.nelsonbach.com/BFE_for_pets.html

http://www.petsynergy.com/flower.html

http://www.oes.org/page1/Bach-Rescue-Remedy.html


If your cat is still being very stressed the vet can put her on "kitty Prozac" for a short term (usually 2 weeks) until she calms down.  It is popular and excellent for calming cats with emotional problems such as the stress of moving or a new home with everything different. You may want to speak to your vet about it if there seems to be an issue with one or both. It's best though not to tranqualize unless there is a MAJOR issue with stress.
*************************************

About moving and traveling:

Traveling:
Use a large, sturdy plastic carrier, with a towel draped over it to keep it dark and prevent your cats from seeing outside. They will sleep better if they don't see what is going on outside. Putting both cats in a large carrier would be comforting to both of them and they can cuddle together. (Have a mini litterbox/shoebox in there too. Make sure that all windows are up enough (no more than 2-3 inches open) so a cat can't jump out. Cats have NO reasoning ability to figure out if the car is moving and they jump out that they can be killed. They just think "open window, I can escape". Make sure they are on a leash or in a carrier BEFORE you open a car door. Scared cats are QUICK!

Caution using tranqualizers when traveling, they can make the kitty vomit and make a mess. The best thing to do is to get Feliway Cat or Comfort Zone with Feliway Calming Spray (from PetSmart/Petco, etc. or a vet's office). It copies relaxing pheromones that cats produce from rubbing their faces on things. Spray the inside of the cat carrier about 20 minutes before putting in the cats. It will help a lot. Cats will eventually stop meowing and sleep. Talk gently to them so your voice reassures them. Don't yell at them or punish them for meowing. That will only confuse them and stress them more. Meowing is the only way they have to tell you they are upset.

At the new home:
Put your cats in a 'safe room'. It is the most familiar place in your new home in your cat's mind and will likely be their chosen spot for a few days until this new house becomes their new home. After a couple of days, open the door to the safe room and let your cats explore at will, on their terms, but just within the limits of the house.

Put their favorite bed, blanket, toys, or any item that is familiar to them in the room. The smells of "home" will help them adjust to their new surroundings.

A slow transition with a period of confinement is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in their 'safe' room, they will quickly redevelop the good habits they had in your old home.

Your cats may meows at the front or back door because they think the old place is outside. Cats do not have reasoning abilitites to understand new home-new territory. Pick them up and walk them outside to show them things are different. Let them look out a window to learn the new sights and smells. Do NOT let them out on their own because they may try to go 'home' and may get lost. Collar train them then put your address and phone number on the collar in case one does get out. Let the cats (even inside cats) put their 'smell' on bushes around the new home. That will let them know where 'home' is. A cat can get lost even a few feet away if there is no smell to direct them.

I hope this helps and has given you some ideas, AND that it didn't overwhelm you with information! Just remember that cats can't reason or think so you need to be cautious.

Tabbi