Cat Training and Behavior (Domestic and Feral)/Piddle Piddle on my Bed.

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Question
Hi,
My little kitten "Skittles" has been with us now for about a month and a half. I introduced her to the litter box on her first day and she picked it up immediately. Then, about three weeks later, I started smelling cat pee whenever I slept. Little did I know she'd been peeing on the bed and I'd been rubbing my nose in pee soaked covers. Ugh! How do I get her to stop peeing on my bed? She's started associating my parents bed with peeing as well! She's peed on their bed twice, mine over 10 times. I caught her once, but most times she pees without me knowing. It's frustrating and my parents are going to take her to the pound if the issue can't be resolved, I'm 20, just here for the summer, I have to go back to school in September. How can I get her trained to stop this behaviour?

Answer
Juanita,

You didn't mention where the kitten's litter box is located. A kitten needs to have a litter box available close by. A kitten will not go far to use the litter box until it is older. You should have a litter box in the bedroom also.

Also a new kitten is scared to go very far on it's own. It's best, when you get a kitten, to get two kittens. You have less problems that way and they learn from each, play kitty games together that humans can't do (chase, wrestle, etc.) and another kitten is companionship when they are alone.

A kitten that is having separation anxiety being suddenly away from mom and/or littermates may have emotional and behavioral problems because of it.


I am including some links to good articles about improper elimination. They will have additional information that you should find helpful in dealing with the kitten's behavior.
(copy and paste or type the whole links into your address bar)

http://cats.about.com/cs/behavioralissues/a/outsidebox_two.htm

http://www.geocities.com/heartland/pointe/9352/litterboxhelp.html

http://www.apbc.org.uk/article10.htm

AND,

here is a 'recipe' for cat urine odor removal:

1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
1/4 cup baking soda
1 teaspoon of liquid soap

(3% hydrogen peroxide can be bought at most grocery and drug stores in pint and quart bottles).

Gently mix all ingredients in a non-metal container. Do not mix or shake vigorously!

The mixture is best used when fresh but can be stored. Do not keep mixture in an airtight container.  Have a VERY loose lid as baking soda and hydrogen peroxide when mixed together will release oxygen and an airtight container will explode. You can mix and keep it in large spray bottle (Home Depot, etc.) but a plastic liter or 2-liter soda bottle works just a well.

Always test for color-fastness. Hydrogen peroxide is a bleaching agent in stronger concentrations and can lighten materials that are not color-fast.

CLOTHING, COMFORTERS, AND BEDDING:

Put the items in the washing machine and pour in enough of the recipe to cover thoroughly. This might take a few gallons depending on the size of the load. Soak for at least 24 hours. Rinse and rewash using normal washing detergent. If any of the odor is still present, soak again for 24 hours, rinse and rewash.

A small area on a comforter can be spot treated by saturating the area thoroughly, letting it dry for 24 hours, then washing the comforter normally in the washer with detergent. Always check for color-fastness before using.

MATTRESSES, SOFAS, PILLOWS

For mattresses you must saturate the spot thoroughly to get deep down into the padding and springs to neutralize the urine. If the cat has urinated alot in one spot, the mattress can be soiled all the way to the other side! Let the area dry for 24-48 hours without bedding then reapply if necessary.

For sofas the same directions as above apply but always check for color-fastness in a hidden area before using. Cotton is used in alot of upholstery fabrics and is easily bleached. If your sofa pillow cushion covers can be unzipped and taken off (must be color-fast and washable) you can put them in the washing machine. See How to Remove from Clothing, Comforters and Bedding for instructions.

I hope this helps.

Tabbi  

Cat Training and Behavior (Domestic and Feral)

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Dear Tabbi

Expertise

My expertise is in helping people understand their cat (or cats) and their behavior. Questions are welcome even if you don't have a cat....just a question about them. Hopefully my experience, suggestions, and comments will be of help to you...and your cat (or cats). Looking through my past responses to questions will give you additional information and/or answers too. Domestic Cats = cats (no matter what breed) who are tame or not wild, or abandoned cats who were pets that became wild, but can be tamed again. Ferals = cats who are born with one or more parents who were wild stray cats. They usually have had no interactions with people. They have an inbred distrust of humans and are difficult to socialize. They are skittish, hide, and are afraid of people. They take a lot of time and patience to work with them. A lot of kittens from shelters had a feral parent.

Experience

Since I was a child, over 45 years, I have been owned by a LOT of cats and kittens of almost every temperament, behavior, and personality. I have had experience with neurotic, disabled (including blind), stray, and 'problem child' cats and kittens. (A few normal cats too!) Plus all the things a lifetime of owning cats and research has taught me. I also have experience in feral cat behavior (which is different from domestic cats), and some experience with feral colonies that includes colony feeding and feral cat TNR (trap/neuter/release).

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