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Cats/How to Care for Recently Trapped Stray Cats

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QUESTION: Hi Jessica,

My husband and I just trapped 3 stray cats (yesterday January 19th).  We placed each cat in their own dog crate equipped with a litter box, food, water and a bed (placed inside a large box with a small opening – we thought it would be nice for privacy).  None of the cats are using the box, they all sleep outside the box on the floor of the crate or on top of the box.  Do you think this behavior will change?  Should we still cover each crate with a blanket?  They all know each other so we thought they would like to see each other.  

We are wondering about litter training.  They have been outside for many months (possibly a year!).  They are obviously fearful so we can’t go near them.  We are hoping they will calm down in a week so that we can take them to the vet for spaying or neutering.  

As you can see we have quite a journey ahead of us so any thoughts/suggestions would be much appreciated.  There are two more strays that we are trying to trap – hopefully in the next few days.  We live in Ontario Canada so the cold winter weather is what really drove this rescue effort.  We plan to foster these cats until new homes can be found.  If they are “unadoptable”, we will keep them.

ANSWER: Hi Mary,

How wonderful of you! I wish there were more people with heart likes yours and your husband's.

As for the boxes you made for them, if they aren't using them with just a small opening, consider making the opening much larger or even leaving the entire top of the box open.  I have a few cats the will use the cat houses we have built faithfully, especially when it gets chilly.  These have only a small entrance so that predators can't get in.  But most of the cats very strongly prefer open-top boxes.  I think many cats feel too cornered once they enter a box when their only exit if cornered is a very small hole.

I like to cover crates with blankets for the first couple of days because they act much as blinders do on a horse.  When cats can't see what's going on around them, they tend to be less afraid.  Being in a home suddenly, after perhaps a year outdoors, is a major shock.  I like to let them learn all the new noises and scents, first.  Then I pin up one or two sides of the sheet so they can interact with me a bit more, and take in some of their surroundings, yet still feel like they can keep their backs to the "protected", sheet-covered side of their cage.  When they're moving around the cage freely and eating normal, the sheet can come off, and they can face all the noises, scents, movements and gadgets that they'll be expected to live with for the time being.

As for calming them down, I recommend using food treats.  Try to hand-feed them bits of chicken or dollops of chicken baby food on a spoon.  This has always been the fastest and most effective way for me to tame down my shy cats.  I recommend starting this right away, even though they're fearful.  While you have them in the crates, your work will be much easier than once they're out.  The cats might eventually come around on their own, but you can make the same progress if you initiate some contact with them in just a few weeks than you might in literally a couple of years if you allow them to work at their own pace.  This isn't the same advice I'd give about a socialized house cat who was just aloof, but ferals need to be handled in a different manner and need to be very strongly coaxed (read: forced) into some handling before they will come to realize it's okay.

Good luck!

Jessica



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for the information Jessica.  When you spoke of feeding them by hand, I realize that will be down the road because right now we are fearful of them biting us if we come too close.  One of the cats is doing fine.  The other 2 have not eaten in almost 48 hours.  We suspect they will eat soon.  When should it become a concern?

We have one other concern:  They all need to get to the vet.  Any suggestions on how I should get them from the cage to the carrier without hurting them?   

Again, thank you very much for your help.

Take care,
Mary

Answer
It starts to become a concern when a cat won't eat for about 72 hours, if the cats are of a normal weight (overweight ones can be a concern sooner, as they metabolize body fat, which can bog down the liver).  If you haven't tried it already, try giving the cats canned food just before you turn all the lights off for the night.  Most cats will eat once it's completely dark and there is no movement in the house.  If you need to, mix the food with a little chicken broth or clam juice (be sure there are no onion ingredients in the broth) to encourage their appetites.

As for getting them to the vet, this will be difficult.  Feral trappers leave the cats in the traps until the vet can get them in, typically the next day.  You may want to do this when you trap the next cats.  The cats generally stay in the trap for 24 hours or so, and if necessary, they urinate and defecate in the trap (which has bars at the bottom that the urine flows out of).  They don't eat, as part of the fasting prior to surgery.  

Trying to get a skiddish cat into a carrier is going to be a huge challenge.  The way I do it is to put the carrier near, or even inside, the crate, with the opening of the carrier facing upward, and have one person hold the carrier, while I scruff the cat (hold it by the scruff of the neck).  I lift the cat by the scruff and lower it into the carrier, quickly closing the door.  Holding the scruff doesn't hurt the cat but helps to immobilize them to a degree.  However, there is still LOTS of struggling going on, and you'd do best to invest in a pair of raptor gloves to protect your hands and arms.  At the very least, some dirt bike gloves are helpful.

Your only other bet might be to get the cats to eat inside the carrier and close them in.  Then, transport them to the vet, where they'll have to receive kennel care for a day before they can undergo surgery.  This is because cats can't eat for about 12 hours before undergoing anesthesia.  You should call your vet and see if this would be an acceptable plan.  Most vets will agree to house and care for cats for a day or two as long as they have room.

Good luck!  

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Jessica

Expertise

The areas in which I have gained the most experience are cat health and feral cat management/rescue. I provide supportive care to chronically ill cats, hospice care to terminally ill cats and also am involved in trap-neuter-return efforts. My specialities lie in taming feral cats and in the allopathic treatment of cats with illnesses or special needs. I also have owned Siamese, Himalayans, Abyssinians, Russian Blues, Savannahs, Bengals, Peterbalds, Don Sphynx and Oriental Shorthairs and am well-versed in cat breeds as well as cat behavior and nutrition.

Experience

I have 15 years of extensive experience with cats ranging from breeding to medical care. My daily routine consists of caring for cats with diabetes, thyroid disease, kidney failure, feline leukemia, feline AIDS as well as feral cats. I have experience with liver patients, heart patients, feline infectious peritonitis, cancer, recovery from amputation and trauma, congenital deformities and most every disease in between. I have assisted cats giving birth and hand-nursed kittens who were neglected by their mother from 2 days old through weaning.

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15 years' hands-on experience

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