AboutJessica Expertise The areas in which I have gained the most experience are cat health and feral cat management/rescue. I provide supportive care to chronically ill cats, hospice care to terminally ill cats and also am involved in trap-neuter-return efforts. My specialities lie in taming feral cats and in the allopathic treatment of cats with illnesses or special needs. I also have owned Siamese, Himalayans, Abyssinians, Russian Blues, Savannahs, Bengals, Peterbalds, Don Sphynx and Oriental Shorthairs and am well-versed in cat breeds as well as cat behavior and nutrition.
Experience I have 15 years of extensive experience with cats ranging from breeding to medical care. My daily routine consists of caring for cats with diabetes, thyroid disease, kidney failure, feline leukemia, feline AIDS as well as feral cats. I have experience with liver patients, heart patients, feline infectious peritonitis, cancer, recovery from amputation and trauma, congenital deformities and most every disease in between. I have assisted cats giving birth and hand-nursed kittens who were neglected by their mother from 2 days old through weaning.
I read your other post about the pregnant stray cat. I am in the same situation that this cat about 9 months old is pregnant. I wanted to make an environment that is condusive to giving birth but, I honestly dont know how or what I need to do so. So would advice would you give? In this city there is a lot of strays cats which makes me nervous that they might bother her during the process. I also feed her three small meals per day a combo of dry and wet food. I try to give her fresh water but she does not drink it any other suggestions? I was thinking of getting some kind of wood box, open on the top with access to the front and laying towels inside--do you think that would work? Also summer is here and it starting to get warm will that effect her? I thought about bringing her inside but she is shy towards humans and my husband would not take kindly to that. Is there anything else she will need during this? Thanks for any help you can offer.
Answer Hi April. First to address the water issue, if you're feeding her canned food, she's getting 90% of her necessary water intake from that. She might also be hunting and eating rodents and such, and those provide water, as well. While you should continue to offer her fresh water, you shouldn't see her drinking much. You will probably notice in increase in her thirst as the kittens begin nursing.
Also, just wanted to mention, if you haven't done this yet, it would be a good idea to switch her to kitten food over the course of a week and leave her on it until she's finished nursing the kittens and has gained her healthy weight back. This will provide her with extra protein and calories she needs to support her litter.
As for the box, it's a great idea to provide her some sort of shelter. Hopefully it will protect the kittens somewhat from predators that may kill them, like tom cats, birds of prey and badgers.
Generally, a box open on top is great for cats who lives indoors. However, because it's going to be located outside, I would make it one with a full top on it. If it's open on top at all, it won't protect the newborns from the scorching sun or rain and will leave them in plain view of predators. God forbid you have a downpour and the rain accumulates in the box, drowning the kittens. There should be a small opening on one of the sides of the box several inches above the bottom of the box. This way, the newborns won't be able to wander out of the box. Also, remember cats can squeeze into tiny places, so only make the opening just big enough for her belly to get through. This will discourage larger animals like raccoons from taking over. And the box shouldn't be too large - cats feel safer in small spaces. Big enough for her to stretch out fully and comfortably is good. Ideally, the top should be hinged so you can open it to check in on the kittens and replace towels if needed. Lining the bottom with towels is great. Just remember, these will need to be thrown out and replaced after the delivery, as they will be soaked with blood and amniotic fluid.
Pregnancy and nursing are stressful, and heat can cause exhaustion. Sun exposure is more dangerous than the temperature itself, though, so the box you provide will help with this. Also, if you add some ice cubes to her water, that will help keep it cooler longer.
I am attaching one of my articles about delivery and raising kittens in general, just for your information. You may or may not wish to be this involved.
I love seeing and helping kittens be born and raised more than anything else in life. Fortunately, cats usually make excellent mothers, so we are just there to sit back and enjoy!
24-48 hours before delivery, sometimes a cat's body temperature will drop a couple degrees, usually to around 99 degrees (anything lower than this is a medical emergency!). They may also lose appetite at this time, and may vomit. A cat can remain in preliminary labor, with mild contractions, for 48 hours.
Within a few hours of the first birth, you will probably notice some fluid and blood leaking from her vulva. She may spend time in the litter box pushing without producing stool and may spend time grooming her genital area. Some cats go into hiding. Others will become very clingy. You should also be able to see her sides harden with contractions, which will become more and more frequent. By this time, birth is very near, and most expectant mothers will purr, breathe rhythmically, and knead as a way to cope with the pain.
When birthing time comes, it's not uncommon for the cat to moan a bit or cry when delivering, especially if it's her first litter. A kitten should be produced within 45 minutes of heavy pushing. They can be born head first or feet first, about 50/50. A kitten is usually born every 15-45 minutes thereafter. The cat may go a couple hours between kittens, as long as she is not pushing heavily. If she is pushing heavily but does not produce a kitten within 45 minutes, she and the kittens are in danger of dying. Sometimes, a kitten may get stuck, and a c-section is necessary.
A cat may go out of heavy labor for several hours before delivery is finished. This is because a cat's uterus is divided into two horns. All kittens in one horn are usually delivered before the kittens in the other horn, and there can be a break in between. There should not be any contractions during this time. If labor and delivery have not resumed within 5 or 6 hours, again a vet is needed. Labor may need to be induced. However, complications are pretty rare, and things will probably go smoothly.
The kittens will be born in grayish sacs called amniotic sacs. Mama should break these open right away to get the kitten breathing. The kitten should begin squealing, and mama will probably lick him clean. This is important, because a wet kitten chills easily, and that can be deadly. She'll also chew the umbilical cord in half, and she may or may not eat the placenta. Once all the kittens are born and mama's nursing them, you should throw away any placentas she hasn't eaten. You also should prepare another box like the one she gave birth in, with clean towels. Wash your hands with hot water and antibacterial soap, and move the kittens and mama into the clean box. Throw away the old one.
If any of the kittens don't begin nursing within an hour of birth, you should help the kitten find a teat by gently nuzzling his nose against it. If he still doesn't start nursing, you'll need to hand nurse him. That's a lot of work and it can be heartbreaking, since many kittens are lost. I recommend to call a vet or animal shelter and see if there are volunteers who can hand nurse. If you want to do it yourself, there is a lot you'll need to know. I won't go into it here, but if you're interested, you can write back and I'll tell you how.
Personally, I am much more involved with the birth than I just went into. You can be, too! Just make sure your hands are sanitized prior to touching any of the kittens, and make sure they're warm.
As each kitten begins to emerge from the vagina, I gently cradle the body. Never pull on a head or tail. The kitten may come out a bit and then go back in, and that's okay. DON'T break the sac! Wait for the kitten to be half delivered, and then gently support the kitten. When mama pushes, you can very gently tug on the kitten’s body to help move it along, but never pull between contractions.
I also break open the amniotic sacs with a clean cloth, rather than waiting for mama to do it. Sometimes, she won't "get it" when the first one's born. Dry the kitten off and place him at her belly for nursing. This will help the other kittens be born more quickly. After all the kittens are born and are dry and nursing, you can cut the umbilical cords if mama hasn't chewed them in half. Use a pair of sharp round-tipped scissors, disinfected with alcohol, to cut the cord no closer than 1" to the kitten's belly, and then throw away the placenta. Be sure not to pull on the umbilical cord, because if it's torn from the belly, infections or serious hernias could occur.
One thing you MUST do - handle the kittens each and every day! Most people believe that that will cause a mother to reject them. This is completely false. Don't take them out of mama's sight, but do pick them up, stroke them, and talk to them for a minute or two a few times a day, every day from birth. Just make sure you wash your hands well. It's so important to handle the kittens often. They begin to bond with people by the time they open their eyes at just 7-10 days old, and getting them familiar with your voice and scent even before then is a great idea. Responsible breeders handle kittens every day to ensure they grow to be excellent pets.
It's also important to weigh the kittens each and every day. The size at birth is not as important as the amount of weight they gain each day. You should measure their weight daily with a mail scale. They should gain 1/4-1/2 an ounce every day. If they don't gain for two days, or if they ever lose any weight at all, get them to the vet. This is a sign of Fading Kitten Syndrome (FKS). There are many, many possible causes of FKS. If caught early enough, many problems can be treated. But I must warn you that timing is imperative! Kittens can quickly die within 12 hours or shorter, if they stop eating. They aren't able to maintain blood sugar, which is why they need to eat at least every two hours.
Around 3-4 weeks, kittens usually start to be able to urinate on their own, and defecate shortly after. If you catch them urinating or defecating, place them in a shallow litter box with litter (but NOT clumping because this can cause gastrointestinal blockages in young kittens). I use a cookie sheet with a layer of litter (never clumping litter) at first, so they can get in and out. If you find solid accidents, move them into the litter tray so the kitten can see it.
Kittens can start experimenting with canned kitten food around 4 weeks old, and should be weaned by about 8 weeks. They may continue to nurse for another few weeks for bonding, but not really for nutrition. I personally don't recommend feeding kittens under 12 weeks any dry food, because they can choke.
These kittens will need their first vaccines by at 8-12 weeks old. Any younger than that may work against the antibodies kittens have gotten from mama's milk and leave the kittens completely unprotected. And mama should be spayed as soon as the vet confirms she is not lactating, which is usually about 10 days after the kittens have finished weaning completely.
