Expert: Karen Craft - 8/5/2007

Question
I have a 17 year old female (Robin) whose male litter-mate (Batman) died about 2 months ago from renal failure complicated by cancer. Robin was also diagnosed with early stage renal failure. I have had them since they were kittens and they were very close. They ate only dry food most of their lives. I started feeding them wet pouch kidney diet to supplement when they were diagnosed about a year ago. Batman liked the food. Robin ate it sometimes just because Batman was eating. Towards the end of his life, Robin would wake me up every day at 5am (I get up for work 3 days per week this early)and Batman would be waiting in the kitchen for me to feed him wet food, which I would. I always leave dry food out for them. Since Batman died, Robin is still waking me at 5am, but then she will not eat. I will pet her and go back to sleep and she continues to wake me. She just wants me to stay awake with her. Her behavior has gotten worse for me as she now wakes me up all during the night. She won't settle down to sleep with us or in her own bed. She used to sleep in another room with her brother, or sometimes they would vie for position in our bed. Because of her constant meowing, I have been getting up and sleeping on the couch or another room so my husband can sleep. I have also spoiled her because I will feed her whenever she wants because her appetite is not very good. She is on an appetite stimulant for this. Most of the time, however, she seems to just want company. I know she is grieving in her own way, but I need to get some sleep. She and her brother were always "talkers" but since her brother died she meows a lot more often. It is  really excessive and unwanted. We are also thinking of adopting another cat or pair of adult cats to give her some company, but I'm not sure if this will help her or just get the new cats into some bad habits. I've tried keeping her in her own room at night, and she has scratched up the carpet. She does not want to be alone. I am thinking of getting a cage for her as a last resort where she can stay with her bed, litter and food for the night and not cause any damage. I really don't want to have to resort to this. Any suggestions??

Answer
Hi Ami,

She is lonely. She wants to be with you because she needs to be with someone. If you cage her she will get sick from the stress that it will cause her. Getting another cat or two will help her. You will need to introduce them the right way. I'm attaching a great article on how to do this for you. Also you need to harden yourself and not give in to her. You are just reinforcing the behavior you don't want her to do.

I am also attaching a recipe for something called kitty glop. This stuff is fantastic to feed convalescing cats. Good luck with her. Let me know how she does.

Ciao, Karen




PROTOCOL FOR
CAT TO CAT
INTRODUCTIONS


·  Help settle the new cat in a small room with litterbox, food, water, toys, and a safe
place to hide (such as a cat carrier with a towel inside).
·  Let the new kitty become comfortable there for 3 or 4 days. Do not allow the cats
to interact during this time. It is fine for the resident cat to be sniffing under the
door and investigating.
·  Switch bedding and other items that have the scent of each of the cats on them.
This way each cat can become used to the scent of the other without meeting
face to face.
·  Spend quality time with each cat on either side of the door - petting, playing,
relaxing. Again, they will be aware of each other, in a non-stressful situation. This is
often reassuring to both of them.
·  If at any point the hissing is intense, or either cat is growling, continue to keep
them separate for as long as it takes the upset cat(s) to settle down. Other signs of
stress are: not eating, not using the litterbox appropriately, overgrooming, etc.
If these symptoms are apparent in your resident cat, please call your veterinarian.  
·  If there is no intense hissing from either cat (i.e. loud hissing with wide open mouth
and teeth showing, or multiple hisses), prop the door open just about an inch to
allow the cats to view each other without being able to make contact. Leave
the door like this for a few days. Watch their interactions; if no serious hissing or
aggression is noted, then it’s time for the next step. EXTRA STEPS FOR A SHY KITTY: If
the new cat is shy, the introduction must be taken more slowly. He will need extra
time to “settle” into his new environment, and to feel comfortable in his “safe”
room. It may be necessary to repeat the introduction and separation program
several times. This separation time is also an excellent time for you to spend time
bonding with each cat, one at a time, so that they do not over-bond to each
other.

·  Open the door and allow the cats to interact on their own time. Do not force
either cat to go from one space to another.
·  Supervise their interactions. Only let them interact for short sessions: 10 to 15
minutes at a time. Then separate them again. Do this several times a day until you
are sure they are tolerating the presence of the other cat, and not fighting,
chasing, or watching the other cat intensely. Do not leave them alone together
until you are reasonably certain that they will not hurt one another.
·  Sometimes it helps to distract the cats with several toys but keep the toys four or
more feet apart when playing. Sometimes cats play so hard, that they forget to be
upset about the other cat and start to become accustomed to the other cat’s
presence. There may be rivalry for toys, so this may not always work. Treats may
help alleviate this situation-give them treats in the presence of the other cats, to
distract and reward them—when they are not hissing.
·  Some cat to cat introductions go very smoothly, while others may take weeks or
months before the cats learn to tolerate each other. The best thing to do is to go
as slowly as necessary - don’t rush the introduction. We all want our cats to get
along well, and quickly. But, please remember that you are hoping and working
for a very long term relationship; being patient at first will pay off! Rushing the
introduction will often cause serious problems which may take longer to solve – or
in some cases, may never be solved.
·  Finally: most cats will adjust to living within a multi cat household. Like people,
some will enjoy it more than others. Patience on the part of all concerned w ill be
more likely to produce an enduring peace than anything else. Enjoy your kitties!


KITTY GLOP




INGREDIENTS:
1 can evaporated milk (sweetened condensed)
2 tbsp. plain yogurt (not low or non fat)
2 tbsp. mayonnaise (real not light or No-Fat)
1 tbs. Karo Syrup (light)
1 pkg. Knox gelatin
1 egg yolk (beaten, )
1 cup Pedialyte (unflavored)
1 jar Stage One Baby food (chicken or turkey)

INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix milk, yogurt, mayonnaise, baby food, and syrup together well. Bring 1 cup pedialyte to boil and mix in Knox gelatin. Set aside. Mix egg yolk with small amount of milk mixture and beat well.

Add gelatin and pedialyte to milk mixture and beat well. Add in egg yolk mixture and beat well. Remember to not use egg substitute and keep egg white to a minimum.

Pour into bowl (with cover) and set in refrigerator. Glop will last for two weeks covered in refrigerator. Try freezing the mixture in ice cube trays and store the cubes in the freezer, thaw as many as needed.
Always warm glop to room temperature ,(milk form), or a little warmer, before feeding.