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Ceramics/Ceramics Glazing Indented Areas

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QUESTION: I've seen some ceramic artists who cut out a flat piece of clay (like a thin plaque that you might hang on the wall) and then stamp words into the clay. They then are able to paint the indentions of the letters a color without getting any color on the higher portion of the clay (the top or flat portion). How are they doing this? It does not appear they are stamping the color into the clay and they are not hand painting the individual letters, that would take too long. How can they paint the indentations and not get any color on the top portion? Does anyone know?

ANSWER: Hi Rebekah, one Question before I answer, is the face of the plaque nice and flat, no warpage.

Sam

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Etsy User Playswithclay
Etsy User Playswithcla  
QUESTION: Well, actually I've seen both. When I asked the question I was talking about a flat plaque, but there are several artists on Etsy doing the same thing with small bowls. I have attached a sample of one I found, Etsy username PlaysWithClay did this one. I've seen a bunch. Any idea how they are doing it?

ANSWER: Hi Rebekah, The color has to be applied by hand, look at the large flower,

http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=20941602

you can see the dark and light tones from brush application. My guess is that that color is applied to an already fired piece and a low firing crafty type glaze is applied, excess wiped off with a wet sponge and re-fired. Look through the color, you can see the white underneath.

Sam

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Finished Product
Finished Product  
QUESTION: So I would create the item, create the indention or design, fire it to a bisque state, then paint the indention by hand and wipe away any excess glaze with a wet sponge, then apply a clear glaze (Why does it need to be a low firing crafty type glaze?), then refire again. Is that correct?

Here is another example that I like better. It looks really well done and very clean. Can you look at this one and see if you think it's the same process? This is Kylie Johnson. She does so many of these. Do you think she is actually painting each and every letter by hand? She also have an image of the clay with indentions before the color has been added.

Thank you so much for your help! Rebekah

Answer
Hi Rebekah, put your color on when its bone dry and then bisque. At bone dry all you need is a FINE diswashing scouring pad to clean the piece up.

If you attempt adding anything like water to a bisque piece it will absorb it straight away, so wiping color away with a wet sponge will create problems. Also you are handling a piece that is ready to accept glaze, oil from your skin through handling can effect glaze adherence.

With the pic supplied the way to add the color to the words is with a sponge, dab the color on(bone dry), let it dry, clean the top surface up with the scouring pad, bisque fire.

This is assuming a clear glaze is used, I cannot make out from the pics if the color is under or on top of the glaze. If you put the color on top of an already fired piece then a refire is needed. There is a color product used in decorating glass, a reheat to 200degC will seal it, but its not very long lasting(crafty), at the other end of the spectrum is a full refire.

So lets assume clear glaze. Do the decorating at the bone dry stage, for large application(letters, full flowers) use a sponge by dabbing the color into the recesses, dust off when dry with a fine scouring pad, bisque fire.

Experiment with oxides, this is whats called using a "wash". water added to red iron oxide or rutile will give dark reds to black or grey(soild color to translucent). You can mix them together as well, half and half. Cobalt carbonate(blue) and copper carbonate(green) can also be used, manganese dioxide is toxic, give it a miss.

Sam  

Ceramics

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Sam Kelly

Expertise

questions with regard to all types of clay, glaze problems and glaze making and application. gas and electric kiln firing

Experience

I am a full time studio potter, also technical assistant in the ceramics department of our local college.

Education/Credentials
I completed a three year ceramics course with 6 distinctions and 5 credits. 2 years as a proffesional potter in on of Australia's largest potteries. Working full time as a studio potter.

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