About Rita Gillman(Clay-Ceramics expert.) Expertise I can answer questions about kilns,molds,tools,clay,slip,paints,overglazes,pottery wheels,porcelain,china painting,raku,working in glass,clay puzzling,brushes and many other areas of ceramics and clay,painting in oils and watercolors,chalks,and safety precautions.
Experience I have been working in clay since I was 10 years old,almost 45 years ago.I repair my own 7 kilns,one which I built.I have helped other studio owners with numerous problems from kilns to slip.I repair antique porcelain dolls,teach classes in ceramics,wheel throwing,raku,clay puzzling and glass.I have taught china painting here and in Canada.I am a judge for several art events,teach the Bob Ross "wet on wet" technique on ceramics,and can fix just about any problem. I have my own studio and website and also belong to a private website for clay and pottery artists.
Organizations American Fired Arts Alliance,International Ceramic Association,National Council on Education for the Ceramic Arts,G.R.I.T.S. YA-YA's Ceramists.
Education/Credentials Masters Degree in Fine Arts and certified teacher.
Awards and Honors I usually do not enter my projects,however my students have taken many Peggy Awards,Freddy Awards,Best of Show and numerous awards,plaques and ribbons in many states.
Past/Present clients I have taught at several ceramic and clay shops.Double LL Ceramics,Margies Ceramics and taught classes at 4-H,Girl Scouts,Boy Scouts,China Babes,Porcelain Dollies,Several schools and many one on one classes including several in Canada.I now sell special orders all over the world.
Question My grandmother has a ceramic shop in her basement and she has all the molds and kilns and everything needed. I just need step by step directions on how and what to do. Could you help? I need to know before the weekend if at all possible. I would really appreciate it.
Answer Hi Cristen,
1st thing is to find all your grandmothers books.She should have a kiln manual that shows how to operate the kiln.If it has sat in the basement without being used for quite awhile,have an electrician come in and test it to make sure there are no shorts in the wiring etc.Kiln wash will need to be applied on one side of the shelves to keep glaze that happens to drip from sticking.Only apply to one side of the shelves.That is the side you will put your ware on.If you apply to both sides,it will powder off onto your glazed items and you won't be able to get it off.Apply to the bottom of the kiln also,but NEVER to the top-the lid.You will probably have to buy new cones for the kiln setter.If they have sat in a damp basement for years,I wouldn't take a chance on them.
All your molds before you use them will need to be dusted out with a soft bristle brush-Anything rough will leave marks and scratches on the molds.Make sure they lock together good,band them with rubber bands or straps.Small molds I use rubber bands ,larger molds the straps.Some take more then one.Check all the seams and look for gaps.If there are any,apply some slip inside the gap to keep them from leaking.
When you pour,make sure to pour slowly and evenly.Do not pour in the same area all the time as you will get hard spots in the mold.The slip won't adhere properly and you will find that when fired,your ware will an area that the paint will not want to stick to.Once you have filled the mold to the top,it will have to set awile.Keep an eye on it because it will start absorbing the water in the slip and will slowly sink down your pour hole.You might need to refill it.Once it has gotten about an 1/8 of an inch thick on the sides of the pour hole,you will need to empty the rest of it out. Slowly do this,do not let it glug.That will cause your slip inside to cave in.If you have several small areas inside the mold,for example legs,heads,arms,once most of the slip is out,you will need to tap it on the side with your hand ,possibly shake it,to make sure you get all the slip out so you don't have a full head.
Check all her paints.If they are dried up,have mold in them or smell bad,toss them.
You will have to clean your greenware with a tool.They usually have two ends,one is curved in a half moon shape,the other usually is flat and comes to a point,almost like an arrow.You will have to remove all the seams and defects on the greenware.Then you will use a scratch pad to lightly sand all the seams down-especially on the bottom of the piece.Run your finger along the seam lines.If you still feel them,sand until you don't.Then take a sponge,dip it in water and lightly sponge to remove any scratch marks.
Once your greenware is cleaned,it will need to be fired.You will want to have several pieces ready to put in the oven.If I am going to glaze after the bisque firing-(this is the first firing of the greenware) then I fire to 02.Some fire at 04.I always keep two cones different between my bisque firing and glaze firing.This will help prevent crazing(a crackling of the glaze)If your pieces are going to be stained,I fire at 06.This makes your bisque softer and the paint will go on easier with less streaking.
Glazing is a glass finish that is refired.Staining is a paint that is not fired after applying,once painted,you can spray with a sealer.Such as a gloss ,matte,porcelain spray.Depending on how you want your piece to look.
Glazes,always read the labels! Some have lead in them,especially cystal glazes.The only ones that can be used for dinnerware will say dinnerware or food safe on the jar.IF IT DOES NOT SAY THAT-don't use them on dinnerware.Non-toxic does not mean safe for ware that you will be putting food in.
Do not eat while applying paints.Oils,salt etc. will also keep your paints from sticking.Plus,you don't want to eat paint.I do allow my customers to drink out of a cup with a straw or bottles with lids.
I am hoping if your grandmother is still around,she can help you.If not, I would strongly advise you to find all the books she has about ceramics and read up on your kiln,paints,safety issues,brushes sprays etc.There are way too many things for me to cover on here.Check out the "Fired Arts and Crafts" magazine or Popular Ceramics.You may want to subscribe to them.
You can also order all kinds of instruction manuals from "Jones Publishing".You can do all your ordering online.
If there is a shop around close by,go check it out.If they give classes,I would advise you to take them.
Ceramics is a lot of work.It's enjoyable,but still requires a lot of time.
If you are pregnant,I would advise you to wait until after the baby is born.The molds are heavy and each gallon of slip that you pour weighs about 15 pounds.Even if you are not pregnant,you need to wear a mask when making or pouring your own slip and cleaning greenware.The slip has silicates in it and some people have had lung problems because of it.Always wash your hands after painting before eating.Always take a "shower" after working in the clay.A bath will not work because the clay will stick to your skin.
Wash your clothes separate from everyone elses.If you have asthma or allergies to dust,I wouldn't mess with this.When you have customers come in,explain to them there is ceramic dust in your place.Asthmatics usually can not be around this dust.
If you plan on running a business,check for zoning laws if you plan on running it out of your garage.You will have to get a tax number.You might have to pay city taxes also.
Do NOT pour in your house.If in a garage,make sure you have plenty of ventilation.Not only for pouring but for the gases that will escape from your kilns.Most people say to keep the kilns 12 inches from the walls-mine are 4 feet from them. I take absolutely no chances with my health or my customers.
I hope I have helped you a little.I have been at this for 45 years.I started when I was 10 years old.I am still learning.You will need more time then a week to understand all the things that need to be done in order to make and sell ceramics.I hope you have a supplier close by.Sometimes they have Duncan ambassadors that come in and certify students that take classes from them.If you try running a shop and don't know what you are doing,your business will suffer.
Rita
