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About Labman
Expertise
I can answer general chemistry questions and those specific to the paint, plastic, and resins fields I have worked in. If I can`t give an answer I know is correct, I will say so. I will not answer questions that sound too much like you need to read your assignment. I will try to help you it if you have read it and do not understand it.

Experience
I have a BS in chemistry and years of experience in the paint and plastic industries. Part of that was as a manager
in a production facility

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Science > Chemistry > Chemistry (including Biochemistry) > Linseed Oil

Chemistry (including Biochemistry) - Linseed Oil


Expert: Labman - 11/28/2005

Question
Yes. This VOC must be in limited amounts but it is VOC that will NEVER go away because of linseed oil properties, correct?

I also don't think there is anything that can block VOC gas completely, even shellac. Won't this oil-produced gas or whatever gas that is going to continue be produced find its way through anything (I understand in small quantitties)? Plus will shellac adhere well to the wet surface? I understand that leaving this paint inside the wall is going to result in softening of the wall as this paint will eat up the wall towards the inside and oouside.

So is it the fact the every oil evaporates VOC? Even wheat germ oil that is healthy (in very small amounts)?

Mr, Labman, what state do you live in?

Thanks.

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Followup To
Question -
Thanks. So, when I smell odor in my house now from this paint that contains linseed oil, what does actually evaporate in the air 3 months after? Does this oil out-gas? Does it out-gas VOC or other gases or particles?

Thanks.


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Followup To
Question -
Thank you. I have not complained yet. I am trying to figure out how to replace my dry wall (2,400 sq ft house) ASAP and at a minimum expense. I am trying to figure out how and where to move my family.

Could you please tell what coat of shellac is? Is it guaranteed to stop whatever linseed oil and this paint evaporate? Where is is all going to go? Outside? Is there a risk in leaving mositure and wet paint inside the walls?

My main question: what does this linseed oil and zzero VOC paint evaporate as it produces some kind of odor? Is this a gas? Can it be harmful to a newborn and a person with the infected liver?

Thanks


Thanks

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Followup To
Question -
Hello:

This is a person who have asked you about linseed oil on numerous occassion, specifically about it not been able to drive on a brand new hardwood floors.

Could you please tell me what it is? Does it produce VOC? Is linseed oil something people it as I can't imagine linseed oil that goes on the floor could be consumed as a salad dressing?

As you know I had problems with not drying / curing floors and I have same with interior walls. I suspect the wall paint I bought contains linseed oil. Do you think it is possible to use a primer and paint that can serve as a vaport barrier for the wall paint I have that has not dried / cured? Is there a downside in leaving "wet" paint inside? Will it try to drive through the outside walls?

Thanks
Answer -
Linseed oil is one of many natural oils.  They are all somewhat alike, containing long chain molecules with an acid group at at one end.  Three acid groups are combined with glycerin to form the oil molecules.  Most of the natural oils have 18 carbon chains and contain various levels of unsaturation.  Unsaturatuion means some of the carbons only have one hydrogen instead of 2 leaving less stable double bonds.  Conventional wisdom has the unsaturated oils healthier for us, except for the artificially partly hydrogenated ones that come out a different shape from the natural ones.  Naturals have a shape called cis.  The others are the dreaded trans you may have heard about.  Linseed oil contains fairly high levels of unsaturated fatty acids.  I guess refined enough, it can be eaten.  I tend to stick to soybean or corn products.  Less oil is best of all.  

Films go from liquid to solid through 2 process, evaporation of low boiling materials and chemical changes.  The double bonds can also react with oxygen creating links between molecules.  The oils are too high boiling to vaporize much.  Splatter water on your stove, and it dries up.  Oil or grease, and you must clean it up.  Refined linseed oil has very little in low boiling components that do vaporize.  It will react with oxygen and slowly harden.  Adding lead and other metals speeds the process.  It can also be chemically treated to increase the drying rate.  For most applications, there are better products today.  Linseed oil may be hanging on because it is a cheap byproduct of linen production.  

Now, your gummy, sticky walls.  I may have already suggested ripping the drywall off and replacing it.  That would create very little VOC until the painting step.  Removing the mess with paint strippers likely would be more expensive and mean moving out of the house until done.  Guess new drywall would be messy too.  You could put a conventional paint over what you have.  Likely the linseed would continue to harden under the new paint.  Paint needs a solid surface under it.  The new paint would be tender and mar easily. The oil could bleed into it, and soften the new finish too.  A coat of shellac could stop that, but once again, a large quantity of VOC.  One last thing.  Heat accelerates the process.  Try applying your hair dryer to the wall.  

Have you complained to all the consumer protection agencies about this?  
Answer -
Shellac comes from tree sap.  In chemistry, like dissolves like, also bleeds through, etc.  Shellac doesn't fit in with much else at all.  Nothing is like it.  It was the classic solution to keep knots from bleeding into paint, and making sure anything else under a coat of paint stayed under it.  Whatever the problem, shellac would seal it away.  Unfortunately, it is applied as a solution in alcohol which provides plenty of organic vapors.  Once dry and the room aired out, the VOC is gone.

Your walls may still be a mess, but VOC shouldn't be a problem.  Any solvent, including water, is long gone.  There will always be some decomposition going on until the material hardens, but the rate is so slow it shouldn't be a problem.  Even if some odor persists, there isn't enough of it to hurt anybody.

I hate our litigateous society, but in this case, sue somebody.    
Answer -
What you are smelling may not be the oil itself.  Most of the vegetable oils contain the same things just in different ratios.  Each has a distinct odor from unique compounds present in very small quantities.  What comes off drying linseed oil is a VOC, but if I ever saw any report of what it is, I have long forgotten.  Anything left after 3 months must be very limited amounts.  

Answer
I think I have mentioned the inverse hockey stick before.  In any process, product will come off rapidly at first, but slow down as the amount left decreases, eventually nearing nothing, but never quite reaching it.  Some of whatever is still coming off will continue.  Very little of that will permeate the shellac.  It will be forced into the way and likely eventually outside.  Any unoxidized oil will continue to be absorbed into the paper surface of the wall board and the pores of the gypsum beneath.  I don't see that hurting anything.  

The shellac should spread out and dry on the oil.  Any mechanical stress will pull the shellac away along with the outer layer of oil.  Still think replacing the drywall may be the best idea.  Hire a contractor, give him a house key and take a vacation.  

My geographic location remains hidden.  

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