Question So my 2004 suburban wont start. The dash lights all light up and all accessories work however when I turn the ignition switch all I get is a "click". I took the car to a local mechanic that I trust after multiple attempts to jump start it, and they told me my alternator was failed(putting out voltage too low to effectively charge) and that our battery was shot because it tested failed on their computer(575 CCA) on an 800 CCA battery. So I had them replace the alternator and I bought a new 800CCA battery and installed it and still, "click". The shop was able to get it running after charging the old battery up to the 575CCA but the next morning before I could replace the battery, I was unable to start the car again. Same click. So after replacing the battery I put the new battery on a trickle charger for a couple of hours and fully charged it, still "click". Now I have done a lot of reading of various forums to try and diagnose this issue and am unable to find a solution that makes sense to me? Some people have replaced fuel pumps(but my car isn't even trying to turn over) some have replaced starter assemblies(why would the mechanic have missed that?) some are having problems with their passlock security system(my security light does not stay on as other's lights have?) all I get is the "check engine" indicator light and the battery light. I have tried the recommended reset procedure for the passlock and am worried that this will end up becoming some phantom problem that costs me thousands with no definitive solution. Please help. -Marshall
Answer HI MARSHALL, THE WAY YOU ARE DESCRIBING THIS TO ME IT SOUNDS TO ME LIKE A BAD STARTER, PERIOD.
THE PASSLOCK SYSTEM WOULD NOT LET IT CLICK.. A FUEL PUMP WOULD NOT DO THIS, THE ENG WOULD CRANK FINE, BUT NOT FIRE..YOU HAVE POWER TO ALL, BUT NO CRANK [JUST CLICK AS YOU SAY]YOU NEED TO GET UNDER THIS TRUCK WITH SOMEONE IN THE TRUCK WHEN THE PERSON IN THE TRUCK IS TURNING THE IGN KEY TO CRANK POSITION YOU NEED EITHER A TEST LIGHT OR A VOLT METER TO CK FOR POWER AT THE STARTER. YOU WANT 12 VOLTS ON THE BIG WIRE TO THE SOLENOID AND 12 VOLTS ON THE SMALL WIRE ON THE SOLENOID EVERYTIME THE KEY IS TURNED TO THE CRANK POSITION..THE BIG CABLE IS FROM THE BATTERY AND THIS WILL HAVE 12 VOLTS ALL THE TIME EVEN WHEN THE KEY IS OFF. THE SMALL WIRE ENERGIZES THE SOLENOID TO ENGAGE THE STARTER..AS FAR AS YOUR TECH NOT FINDING THIS IS BECAUSE THERE IS A FLAT SPOT ON THE STARTER ARMETURE. SOMETIMES IT WILL CLICK AND SOMETIMES IT WILL CRANK OVER.[[THERE IS A TEST FOR THIS WITH THE CORRECT TOOLS]]THEY SHOULD OF CHECKED THIS. USUALLY IF THE ALTERNATOR IS BAD THE ENG WILL JUST DIE AND ALL ELECTRICAL SOURCES WILL DIE AS WELL. ARE THEY SURE THE ALT WAS BAD ???? I HAVE MY DOUBTS. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY TOOLS AS ABOVE, HAVE SOMEONE HOLD THE KEY TO THE CRANK POSITION AND YOU TAP THE STARTER WITH A HAMMER [TAP NOT HIT HARD] IF IT CRANKS LIKE THIS THE STARTER IS BAD. THIS IS A 50 50 TEST NOT AS GOOD AS A VOLT METER. NOW LETS SAY YOU DO NOT HAVE 12 VOLTS WHILE TURNING THE KEY TO THE CRANK SIDE OF IGN ON THE SMALL WIRE AT THE SOLENOID YOU MAY HAVE A BAD IGNITION SWITCH OR WIRE PROBLEM..MAKE SURE THAT THE BIG CABLE ON THE STARTER HAS BATTERY VOLTAGE ALL THE TIME,IF NOT FIND THE PROBLEM ,SUCH AS CORRODED CABLES OR FAULTY GROUND CABLE TO THE FRAME..I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU AND LET ME KNOW HOW YOU MAKE OUT,,, GOOOD LUCK..TOM
PLEASE READ ALL OF THIS BEFORE ASKING ANY QUESTIONS. IF THIS CHEVY SECTION IS MAXED OUT.YOU CAN REACH ME IN THE OLDS/BUICK SECTION. Will answer questions from 6:00am to 10:00pm all days [EST][[[ NO DIESEL OR PAINT QUESTIONS]]] will answer all 1965 to present QUESTIONS ON ALL GM'S on mechanics of these cars. Keep in mind i am not there in person i am going on what you are telling me !! PLEASE IF ASKING A QUESTION GIVE ME AS MUCH INFO AS POSSIBLE. THE MORE THE BETTER. SUCH AS YEAR,MAKE,MODEL,ENGINE SIZE. THIS WILL HELP ME HELP YOU. I will not be able to answer all questions because of some situations that i would really need to be there and see things for myself,such as electrical issues. In many cases i would need wiring diagrams. I can also give you an estimate on what the cost would be at our repair shop as an idea to help you. Keep in mind that my answer is ONLY MY ADVICE,ck with your mechanic as well.. >> THANK YOU, TOM..
I have been a ASE certified master mechanic for over 30 years and certified IN ALL 8 CATEGORIES,[engine repair,engine performance,auto trans,manual trans,clutches,steering and suspension,brakes,electrical systems,heating and air/cond. I am also a state CERTIFIED inspector for over 30 years. I do computer work [pcm]fault codes,pcm flashing,state inspection monitor readiness,repairs on exhaust,fuel service,[injection and carburetor,] charging system problems, running issues,alignments,frame problems,tire balance,struts and of course standard and anti-lock brakes.
Organizations nys state auto repair industry and ase group.
Education/Credentials high school,4 years of tech school,and many many hours of auto training with many gm classes and aftermarket training classes..
Awards and Honors ASE MASTER TECH CERTIFIED IN ALL 8 CATEGORIES.NYS INSP LICENSE AND A/C CERTIFIED
Past/Present Clients MANY CUSTOMERS IN OUR BUSY SHOP.