Chevrolet Repair/Door lock

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Question
Hello Tom,

I have a Cavalier 2004 with only 42K miles. It's very well kept. I took it for an oil chg to Sears, and when I got it back and inserted the key in the drivers' door lock, the key turns freely clockwise like 1/4 of a turn, and counter-clockwise like 1/4 of a turn without the usual resistence, and the door doesn't open. I have to open the passenger's door and remove the driver's door lock from inside. The key works in the igition switch, the trunk and all other locks except this one, and opening the driver's door from inside works fine. Have you seen this problem before or know the cause or how to fix it?

Thank you in advance. I appreciate your help.

Sincerely,

Rick

Answer
GOOD MORNING RICK,,YES I HAVE SEEN THIS MANY, MANY TIMES..YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR DRIVERS INNER DOOR PANEL AND I THINK WHAT YOU WILL FIND IS THE LOCK ACTUATOR ROD HAS FALLEN OFF THE LOCK CYLINDER..LOOK AT THE LOCK CYLINDER FROM THE INSIDE AND YOU SHOULD FIND A ROD ON THE LOCK CYLINDER ITSELF AND THE OTHER END OF THIS ROD GOES TO THE DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY THIS IS WHAT LOCKS THE DOOR..THERE IS A CLIP THAT HOLD BOTH ENDS OF THE ROD TO THE LOCK CYLINDER AND LATCH ASSEMBLY. I THINK YOU WILL FIND ONE OF THE ENDS IS NOT ATTATCHED. MORE THEN LIKELY IF YOU LOOK TO THE BOTTOM OF THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR YOU WILL FIND THE CLIP THAT FELL OFF OR BROKE OFF. NOW AS TO WHY THIS HAPPENED I WILL GUESS SOMEONE AT SEARS LOCKED THE DOOR WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND THEY NEEDED TO SLIM JIM THE DOOR LOCK TO OPEN IT, BREAKING OFF THE CLIP...JUST A GUESS, OR THE CLIP JUST BROKE..HOPE THIS HELPS YOU AND GOOD LUCK,,,TOM...

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TOM SHEETS

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PLEASE READ ALL OF THIS BEFORE ASKING ANY QUESTIONS. IF THIS CHEVY SECTION IS MAXED OUT.YOU CAN REACH ME IN THE OLDS/BUICK SECTION. Will answer questions from 6:00am to 10:00pm all days [EST][[[ NO DIESEL OR PAINT QUESTIONS]]] will answer all 1965 to present QUESTIONS ON ALL GM'S on mechanics of these cars. Keep in mind i am not there in person i am going on what you are telling me !! PLEASE IF ASKING A QUESTION GIVE ME AS MUCH INFO AS POSSIBLE. THE MORE THE BETTER. SUCH AS YEAR,MAKE,MODEL,ENGINE SIZE. THIS WILL HELP ME HELP YOU. I will not be able to answer all questions because of some situations that i would really need to be there and see things for myself,such as electrical issues. In many cases i would need wiring diagrams. I can also give you an estimate on what the cost would be at our repair shop as an idea to help you. Keep in mind that my answer is ONLY MY ADVICE,ck with your mechanic as well.. >> THANK YOU, TOM..

Experience

I have been a ASE certified master mechanic for over 30 years and certified IN ALL 8 CATEGORIES,[engine repair,engine performance,auto trans,manual trans,clutches,steering and suspension,brakes,electrical systems,heating and air/cond. I am also a state CERTIFIED inspector for over 30 years. I do computer work [pcm]fault codes,pcm flashing,state inspection monitor readiness,repairs on exhaust,fuel service,[injection and carburetor,] charging system problems, running issues,alignments,frame problems,tire balance,struts and of course standard and anti-lock brakes.

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nys state auto repair industry and ase group.

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high school,4 years of tech school,and many many hours of auto training with many gm classes and aftermarket training classes..

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ASE MASTER TECH CERTIFIED IN ALL 8 CATEGORIES.NYS INSP LICENSE AND A/C CERTIFIED

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