Question I am working on my daughters '07 HHR 2.4 engine. The battery keeps draining and it will take spells draining it in 3-4 hours sitting on up to a couple of days. It is slowly getting worse. I pulled the battery thinking that was it but charging it and putting it under a load it still came out fine. Next checked the fuses, and none of them were bad. Onto the alternator but that checks out fine. My nephew read that there has been an incidence on the fuse to the ECM on the right rear fuse panel. Nope that checked out fine. I am really pulling my hair out trying to think of what is doing this. She doesn't keep her phone charger plugged in, nor her radar detector. The radio is factory.
Any thoughts on where I might check next?
Answer HI ROSS,OK YOU HAVE DRAIN IN THE SYSTEM..GET YOURSELF A VOLT/AMP METER.THE AMP METER NEEDS TO DO MIL-AMPS,, NOT JUST AMP READINGS..REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FROM THE CAR. NOW HOOK THE AMP METER UP,USE ONE CABLE FROM THE AMP METER AND HOOK IT UP TO THE BATTERY CABLE THAT YOU REMOVED. NOW TAKE THE OTHER AMP METER CABLE AND HOOK THAT UP TO THE BATTERY POST THAT YOU REMOVED THE CABLE FROM. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD CONNECTIONS..NOW SET YOUR AMP METER TO MILI-AMP SCALE. MAKE SURE THE KEY IS OUT OF THE IGNITION ALL LIGHTS ARE OFF AND ALL DOORS ARE CLOSED. SET THE AMP METER TO MIL-AMPS IT SHOULD READ LESS THEN 50 MIL-IAMPS.. ANYTHING OVER THAT YOU ARE CORRECT THERE IS A DRAIN IN THE SYSTEM...NOW WITH THAT BEING SAID DO NOT DO ANYTHING AT ALL FOR 30 MINUTES..JUST LEAVE THE AMP METER HOOKED UP AS I SAID AND AFTER 30 MINUTES THE COMPUTERS AND MODULES IN THE CAR WILL TIME OUT OR GO TO SLEEP...THIS WILL DROP THE AMP METER LOWER THEN WHAT IT IS WHEN YOU FIRST HOOK IT UP...SO LETS SAY 30 MINUTES HAVE GONE BY AND THERE IS STILL A DRAIN OF MORE THEN 50 MIL-AMPS..NOW OPEN THE FUSE BOX UNDER THE HOOD AND REMOVE ONE FUSE AT A TIME,WHEN YOU REMOVE THE FUSE CK YOUR METER TO SEE IF IT DROPS DOWN. IF NO CHANGE PUT THAT FUSE BACK IN AND DO THE NEXT FUSE..IF AND WHEN IT DOES DROP DOWN YOU FOUND YOUR DRAIN IN THE CIRCUIT..SO LETS SAY YOU HAVE A FUSE REMOVED AND THE DRAIN DROPS WAY UNDER 50 MIL-AMPS. NOW FIND OUT WHAT CIRCUIT THAT FUSE CONTROLS..IF NO DROP IS FOUND IN THAT FUSE BOX YOU WILL NEED TO GO IN THE CAR AND FIND THAT FUSE BOX AND DO THE SAME THING IN THERE. BUT YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE DOME LIGHT FUSE TO TURN OF THE LIGHT IN THE CAR, BECAUSE WHEN YOU OPEN UP THE DOOR IT WILL DRAIN MORE FROM THE CIRCUIT....YOU SEE WHERE THIS IS GOING NOW...WHAT I DO BEFORE I START THIS TEST I FIND THE INTERIOR FUSE AND REMOVE IT SO WHEN AND IF I NEED TO GET IN THE CAR DURING THE TEST I DO NOT NEED TO START ALL OVER AGAIN..ONCE YOU OPEN UP THE DOOR YOU MAY NEED TO WAIT AGAIN UNTILL THE BCM GOES TO SLEEP.[BODY CONTROL MODULE]REMEMBER MODULES OR COMPUTERS NEED TO TIME OUT..SOME TAKE 10 MINUTES SOME TAKE 30 MINUTES. AGAIN ONE OF THE FUSES YOU REMOVE SHOULD DROP THE METER DOWN UNDER 50 MIL-IAMPS.THEN JUST FIND WHAT THAT FUSE CONTROLS...SOME PEOPLE CHOOSE NOT TO FIND WHAT IT CONTROLS AND LEAVE THE FUSE OUT OF THE CIRCUIT TO STOP THE BATTERY DRAIN. THIS IS IF IT IS NOT A IMPORTANT FUSE.. SUCH AS BRAKE LIGHT,WIPER ETC...HOPE THIS HELPS YOU AND GOOD LUCK TO YOU,,,TOM......
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Thank you for the info. I will check it out this weekend.
PLEASE READ ALL OF THIS BEFORE ASKING ANY QUESTIONS. IF THIS CHEVY SECTION IS MAXED OUT.YOU CAN REACH ME IN THE OLDS/BUICK SECTION. Will answer questions from 6:00am to 10:00pm all days [EST][[[ NO DIESEL OR PAINT QUESTIONS]]] will answer all 1965 to present QUESTIONS ON ALL GM'S on mechanics of these cars. Keep in mind i am not there in person i am going on what you are telling me !! PLEASE IF ASKING A QUESTION GIVE ME AS MUCH INFO AS POSSIBLE. THE MORE THE BETTER. SUCH AS YEAR,MAKE,MODEL,ENGINE SIZE. THIS WILL HELP ME HELP YOU. I will not be able to answer all questions because of some situations that i would really need to be there and see things for myself,such as electrical issues. In many cases i would need wiring diagrams. I can also give you an estimate on what the cost would be at our repair shop as an idea to help you. Keep in mind that my answer is ONLY MY ADVICE,ck with your mechanic as well.. >> THANK YOU, TOM..
I have been a ASE certified master mechanic for over 30 years and certified IN ALL 8 CATEGORIES,[engine repair,engine performance,auto trans,manual trans,clutches,steering and suspension,brakes,electrical systems,heating and air/cond. I am also a state CERTIFIED inspector for over 30 years. I do computer work [pcm]fault codes,pcm flashing,state inspection monitor readiness,repairs on exhaust,fuel service,[injection and carburetor,] charging system problems, running issues,alignments,frame problems,tire balance,struts and of course standard and anti-lock brakes.
Organizations nys state auto repair industry and ase group.
Education/Credentials high school,4 years of tech school,and many many hours of auto training with many gm classes and aftermarket training classes..
Awards and Honors ASE MASTER TECH CERTIFIED IN ALL 8 CATEGORIES.NYS INSP LICENSE AND A/C CERTIFIED
Past/Present Clients MANY CUSTOMERS IN OUR BUSY SHOP.